scapilot Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've read tons of topics regarding using the obvious filler, putty or even CA glue to fill joints, but I was just reading a .pdf file online of a guy who fills such joints using standard elmers glue. Hadn't though about it, but was curious as to if anyone has had any success with using this? I got a bottle of the Elmers Clear, which does amazing for canopies, but I hadn't used it for anything else. Seems like it would be much more pliable to use than putty, and wouldn't require near as much work to clean up. Thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've read tons of topics regarding using the obvious filler, putty or even CA glue to fill joints, but I was just reading a .pdf file online of a guy who fills such joints using standard elmers glue. Hadn't though about it, but was curious as to if anyone has had any success with using this? I got a bottle of the Elmers Clear, which does amazing for canopies, but I hadn't used it for anything else. Seems like it would be much more pliable to use than putty, and wouldn't require near as much work to clean up. Thoughts? Shrinks like crazy, since it's mostly water to begin with. Still, I have used it for filling, but I use quite a bit extra to compensate. It works really well to fill tough to reach areas like the gap between the cockpit glare shield and the windscreen. You need to work with it fairly quickly and use a wet Q-tip for clean-up, other wise it will start to wrinkle if you play with it too long. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I only use it to blend in canopies, there are allot of draw backs that I would not want to gamble with by using white glue. Once dry its hard, but might pop off a slick part if there was not good bite, you cannot wet sand it as it will get soft again, so it could only be used at the end of a build. Canopies would be all. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I've used Sobo Craft Glue successfully where I needed good leveling and flow to fill a difficult area. The key is to lay it in so that the edge is clean and straight, which can be hard to do. I use a wet piece of paper towel wrapped around a toothpick or similar object to clean it up, as the towel leaves fewer fibers. You can dilute it very slightly with water to get a longer working time. It is my filler of last resort, generally to be avoided because application can be frustrating. As others have mentioned, it shrinks a lot, so you sometimes have to layer it inâ€â€with the same degree of difficulty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phantom ordie Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I find it good to fill in wing filet gaps,providing they are not wide gaps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Miccara Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I find it good to fill in wing filet gaps,providing they are not wide gaps. I used Blu-Tack to fill the wing root gaps on a plane about a year ago. After filling it, I used a piece of bamboo dipped in hot water to smooth over the gap. Painted the kit and to this day, you can't tell... no cracks, nothing... so far. But boy it was easy to do and hasn't shrunk. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shandsgator8 Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 (edited) I tried using it as a filler for the Tamiya 1/48 P-51D flap correction I just completed, but it didn't work. I basically glued in a plastic wedge into the flap's "gap," then wanted to use Elmer's glue to fill in any tiny crevices that might have been present. The Elmer's glue didn't stick that well to the plastic and was essentially a very thin "skin" on the plastic. I ended up using JB Weld as a filler and it worked wonderfully. Edited March 31, 2012 by shandsgator8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Loggie Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Yeah, I use Krystal Kleer as a filler around canopies and in hard-to-reach(= sand) gaps. Yes, it does shrink, so I put on a second coat. And I paint over it. Yes, it can be picked-out with a sharp probe, but if you don't poke it, it won't start detaching. It works for me. George, out............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant in West Oz Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Try Tippex or White-Out in the stylus applicators. I use it for fine gaps (tail-plane to fuselage sort of things) and it's dead easy to clean up. Just a little meths or rubbing alcohol on a cloth (I favour wool flannel) abrades the filler but not the plastic. Good to go in half an hour. G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
famvburg Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 That's one of the first filler techniques I learned about 40 years ago. Works great. I've read tons of topics regarding using the obvious filler, putty or even CA glue to fill joints, but I was just reading a .pdf file online of a guy who fills such joints using standard elmers glue. Hadn't though about it, but was curious as to if anyone has had any success with using this? I got a bottle of the Elmers Clear, which does amazing for canopies, but I hadn't used it for anything else. Seems like it would be much more pliable to use than putty, and wouldn't require near as much work to clean up. Thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I still use it to fill joints. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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