Flush Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Greetings All, I have decided at the last moment to enter my Viper in a local contest. I think it will be IMPS based rules, but not quite sure. I am not so concerned with F-16 Block corrections as much as I am in correcting model skill errors enough to make this competitive. I am aware of some errors and have identified them but some of them I am not aware of how to correct so all suggestions are welcomed. If you have judged contests before any ideas on what I need to look for with my corrections, I would greatly appreciate any ideas. The contest is in September so I need to get on this as soon as possible so I have enough time to these copious errors. If my weathering is too much or need more in other areas feel free to share. Edited July 2, 2012 by Flush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flush Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 More Pictures Any ideas and critiques are welcome. I really want to be competitive if it's possible at this stage of the game. Thanks, Flush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Hello. Overall a beautiful model. I like the weathering a lot. I think you captured the look of the real thing very well. Other things that look to me quite nice are the munition (masking looks very good), the inside and outside of the exhaust nozzle, the open gun panels, and the feathered demarcation between the gunship and neutral gray. It is difficult to analyze a model from pictures though. So some of the things like the seam lines etc. may not be discernible (I think the judges pay a lot of attention to these basic things). Not knowing which category you have in mind, here are a few things you may want to consider if you plan on entering the contest (again, these do not take a way from the beauty of your model): - From the exact front view make sure the rear wheels stand vertical, symmetrical, and equidistant from the centerline. Make sure the front wheel is vertical. - I may be mistaken but the tail seems to be leaning port side ever so slightly. Just check that out. - When the model is placed on a horizontal, flat surface, measure the height of the two Amraam tips from the ground. Make sure they are similar. If too different, that may mean the model is not perfectly level. - Make sure the gas tanks, their pylons, LGB pylons etc. are symmetrical and point straight downward when viewed from the front. Now, this can be contentious in certain models where the real thing does not point down perfectly, or it angles to the side (like the F-18F). The subject itself will dictate how they should be. - There seems to be a gap between the vertical stab and the fuselage (4th and 7th pic). Perhaps consider sealing that gap through out its length. - Make sure the canopy is not out of alignment with the centerline of the model. It seems from one picture that it maybe slightly off center. - Perhaps you already did this very well but make sure there is not an obvious running seam or step inside the engine intake. - Canopy masking could be improved (between the clear section and the gray border). - It is difficult to tell from the pictures but the wheels may need a little bit sharper masking between the black (tire) and the white (wheel). I may be mistaken though. Again, in the grand context of building scale models and having fun, these are minute details. They do not take away from the beauty of the model. However, since you are interested in a contest, there are these kinds of things that the judges are supposed to scrutinize. Hope it helps. Good luck. Edited July 2, 2012 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Collin Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Nice build... those photos bring back memories of having these CO birds in my stack. You nailed the dust collection on the mid-body. Cheers Collin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flush Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 Janissary First Thanks for all of the input. You saw some things I didn't see or even think about. If you wouldn't mind I could use a little more details on some of your inputs. --You stated: It is difficult to analyze a model from pictures though. So some of the things like the seam lines etc. may not be discernible Here are some better pictures. I would love to hear your opinions on these seams and if there is anything I can do to correct them at this point. - From the exact front view make sure the rear wheels stand vertical, symmetrical, and equidistant from the centerline. Make sure the front wheel is vertical. So when building the gear do I do measurements with a ruler to make sure they are equidistant from centerline? Do I need to adjust my nose wheel? - Canopy masking could be improved (between the clear section and the gray border). Is there anything I can do at this point to help this one out? I had such a hard time with this model and the canopy. I used parafilm (which I have always used) and it was a nightmare with this model. I probably should have just taped it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I know that there are some things that I can't correct with this model but if there are things I can I would like to. I will run some filler between the tail and body. I will also take a look at the wheels and see if I can clean them up at all (they too gave me fits) Any ideas on how to make it better that isn't going to depend on my shaky hands? Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it! Flush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Hi, from the last pictures you posted, I cannot see anything glaringly wrong. The wing root seam looks fine and you correctly did not fill in the movable parts. I think seam lines are somewhat easier to spot along gas tanks (if they are two-piece parts), outside surface of the intake, and along the upper-lower or left-right fuselage joints. I am not sure how Academy F-16 part break down is, but as I said, I don't see anything wrong with yours (to the extent visible from the pics). The wheels and the overall 'levelness' of the model are critical because when they are wrong, they are easy to spot. Sometimes symmetry/alignment may be compromised when there is some thick paint that gets in the way of the wheel going all the way into the pin/hub, or that it does not settle completely where it is supposed to. Your rear wheels look alright, but a view where the bottom of all three wheels are along a straight line would be better to examine. Perhaps your front wheel is a tad bit crooked, but not a big deal. If the canopy is not hard-glued, you may take it off and strip the paint in alcohol and redo it. I think thin strips of tamiya tape worked into the curve of the border might be the way to mask. For the wheels, many poeple have very different and super-succesful techniques. I tried many and finally settled on using parafilm as shown here: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=206922&view=findpost&p=2054201 The raised lip of the wheel usually helps a lot with cutting parafilm. FWIW, here is an F-16 I worked on last year. Some of the masking and my construction flaws I saw and fixed (e.g., nose) might be useful: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=238118&st=0 Your build is really great. I make tons of mistakes similar to the ones I point out in your build. Sometimes I know what the mistakes are, and sometimes others tell me here in the critique corner (that's way I love this section of ARC). Attending an IPMS show and talking to judges, either about your model or someone else's, is also a great way to improve your understanding. As long as you keep an open mind (which I feel you do), and want to improve, talking to judges or better yet getting to judge is a great experience. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 You can read the judging handbook yourself at this link: http://www.ipmsusa.org/competition_handbook/CompHandbook2002_noframes.html It's very helpful for all model builders to read it because it can remind us of things we've forgotten or try things that we didn't think of. Janissary's post is the best because he lists things in order of what judges look for - alignment first, then seams, then paint demarcations, then the other things in the handbook if the models do all those things perfectly (and no model ever does all those things perfectly). The only thing I noticed outside Janissary's list are the paint edges on the wheel hubs, which can be covered up nicely with a little wash. Go into the contest without expectation, and after a few shows you can think of volunteering for judging once just to see what they do. They will teach you, show you their tricks (like using a flashlight to find seams), and give you an appreciation for their job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flush Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 FWIW, here is an F-16 I worked on last year. Some of the masking and my construction flaws I saw and fixed (e.g., nose) might be useful: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=238118&st=0 WOW... That is an awesome piece of work! I have a lot to learn..lol Absolutely inspireing, thanks for sharing and teaching. I never thought of parafilm for the tires, I'll see if there is something more I can do since they are fixed in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flush Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 You can read the judging handbook yourself at this link: http://www.ipmsusa.org/competition_handbook/CompHandbook2002_noframes.html It's very helpful for all model builders to read it because it can remind us of things we've forgotten or try things that we didn't think of. Janissary's post is the best because he lists things in order of what judges look for - alignment first, then seams, then paint demarcations, then the other things in the handbook if the models do all those things perfectly (and no model ever does all those things perfectly). The only thing I noticed outside Janissary's list are the paint edges on the wheel hubs, which can be covered up nicely with a little wash. Go into the contest without expectation, and after a few shows you can think of volunteering for judging once just to see what they do. They will teach you, show you their tricks (like using a flashlight to find seams), and give you an appreciation for their job. You've brought up some good points. I read their judging criteria before, and it did give me some good points to look at and that was very helpful. I have used the flashlight on this model and have found some issues. I really have an issue with a stepped seam at the end of the engine and the tail. I'm not sure I can fix it at this point. I hate it when you don't test fit everything and are stuck after you have put it together or are so tired of it on your bench that'll you'll sell your first born to get it done. Thanks for the help and advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fly-n-hi Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) I think overall you did a really good job on this. I like the discoloration on the fuselage an it looks pretty spot on. One thing I did notice right away (sorry if it was already pointed out) is that the decals on the tail are not level with the ground or rather they are not level with the longitudinal axis of the plane (pic #3). My guess is that maybe you applied the CO banner first and it was just slightly higher in the front which caused you to place the remaining decals at the same angle. You might be able to fix it. I've had decal issues where I simply took a soft brush, continuously dipped it in water and brushed it over the decal that I wanted to move. Then as it begins to lift a bit you can very gently start to work the brisltes under the decal. You gotta be slow, patient and light handed but it does work. Edited July 3, 2012 by Fly-n-hi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 I do not recommended you try to do any major fixes to the model, just display it as you've built it and see what the Judges call out. If you try any fixes now (stripping the canopy and trying to move a fixed decal) you are only going to ruin something. Take it, learn from it, and apply it to your next model build. The one thing I do not recommend is to have removable panels, the ones on your model fit terrible, I suggest leaving them off for the contest, lay then next to the model as a display. When you have these panels they need to fit flush and tight as any other seam would, you leave yourself stuck, because if the fit is bad you take a hit, if you leave then open then you will be judged on the detail of the open bay, keep these simple and glue them shut. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flush Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 I do not recommended you try to do any major fixes to the model, just display it as you've built it and see what the Judges call out. If you try any fixes now (stripping the canopy and trying to move a fixed decal) you are only going to ruin something. Take it, learn from it, and apply it to your next model build. The one thing I do not recommend is to have removable panels, the ones on your model fit terrible, I suggest leaving them off for the contest, lay then next to the model as a display. When you have these panels they need to fit flush and tight as any other seam would, you leave yourself stuck, because if the fit is bad you take a hit, if you leave then open then you will be judged on the detail of the open bay, keep these simple and glue them shut. Curt Thanks Curt!! I've been admiring your work for some time now. I agree with what you said about the canopy. I was thinking about it today, because I have to order a replacement part from Academy, I was thinking about ordering a new canopy as well. The only thing I think I could fix would be the seam that I circled on previous picture of the seam by the radom. I made spare decals so I could sand and repaint that seam; then it would look better. As for the gun panels, I think your right just glue it shut and forget about the work. I would like to fix the nose tire like Janissary talked about. I didn't glue that one on so I should be able to adjust as required. I should also be able to run a some filler down the tail joint and paint accordingly. Thanks for the inputs, when I build the next ones I will think about all of these issues and figure them out before glue and paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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