RKic Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) I usually don't post my builds here, as they rarely live up to the standard of modeling I see. Still, this last one I'm pretty happy with. A few photos of my Hasegawa Raiden (Jack). These were taken with a broken camera, so they're a bit iffy, and needed major cropping, but they're the best I got. Overall the Hasegawa kit is a nice one. There is plenty of detail in the cockpit, the wheel wells and on the surfaces. Most of the fit was pretty much flawless. I had a few problems getting the canopy on the fuselage, but this may have been user error. The decals were a bit more finicky. All of the markings were fragile, and the yellow fuselage band was translucent. I ended up breaking most of the decals, and painted the yellow band first in red, and then with yellow. It is placed a bit too far forward, but that is an error I can live with. The kit is painted entirely in Tamiya acrylics, and lightly weathered with artists' pencils (silver, and several dark greens and browns), mist coats of highly thinned paint suspended in clear medium, and pastels. The oil staining around the landing gear is Tamiya smoke dilluted in water and dish washing soap. All in all a fun model, and I would recommend it to anybody interested in WWII aviation. Edited July 7, 2012 by RKic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MattC Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 RKic - You have no need to hide your modelling light under a bushel, nice work, and just the right amount of weathering. If you model to this standard, you have nothing to fear, and its always nice to see some slightly less often modelled aircraft making an appearance. Thanks for sharing, the Raiden is one of those aircraft where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. It looks all wrong somehow, but its so right. Good job sir. Matt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Thanks for the kind words Matt. And you're right, the Raiden kind of looks like it shouldn't be able to fly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie Cheslo Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Agreed! No way should you not be sharing your builds. That is a most excellent looking Raiden. Cannot tell that you had any issues with the canopy at all. I agree that the weathering looks fantastic. If anything, given that these were late war interceptors, and were pretty beaten up by 1945, you could have gotten away with even more weathering. I have seen some pics of captured Raidens that looks as if they have practically no camo left on 'em at all. (Something to do with no primer left to use as an undercoat late in the war.) Love your chipping effect, and the greasy gun smoke staining on the leading edges. Well done, and keep posting. Can't wait to see some in progress shots of your Kinetic Prowler! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Hi Jamie, I'm glad you liked it. I actually toned down the gun powder streaks after I took the photos as I like to keep my weathering pretty understated. Ditto on the paint chips. I think the Japanese were forced to paint their aircraft with Model Master Acrylics late in the war. Secret squads of American Marine raiders would then sneak into the airbases with rolls of masking tape and pull the camo off :) Incidentally, all the chipping was done with a silver Prismacolor pencil. I find these things indispensible for paint chips. I apply a few before putting on the last flat/semi-gloss coat, and then a few afterwards. That way it looks like a combination of fresh chips as well as metal that has been exposed for a while. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamie Cheslo Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 I think the Japanese were forced to paint their aircraft with Model Master Acrylics late in the war. Secret squads of American Marine raiders would then sneak into the airbases with rolls of masking tape and pull the camo off :) :lol: :lol: Incidentally, all the chipping was done with a silver Prismacolor pencil. I find these things indispensible for paint chips. I apply a few before putting on the last flat/semi-gloss coat, and then a few afterwards. That way it looks like a combination of fresh chips as well as metal that has been exposed for a while. I need to try those. Usually when I have a lot of paint chipping to do, I will paint an undercoat of Tamiya Natural Metal, then do the salt-chipping technique. Admittedly, a lot more labour intensive. Once again, great job! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.