Darren Roberts Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 I'm decaling an F-4S using Furball's awesome decals. The VF-151 jet has the BuNo as F4-S. I checked with Geoff, and sure enough, someone in CC hosed it up. The problem is I'm not sure I can live with it like that. It's going to bug me everytime I look at it. However, it's accurate. I'm sure tempted to be "inaccurate" and cut it up to make F-4S. While it would be "wrong" for this particular jet, it's how every other BuNo I've seen is painted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticWeapons Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Build the way you want it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j-basset Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Here's a picture of NF200, which was used on the box top of a Hasegawa 1/72 F-4S release last year: It is as Geoff says, but it's really your call. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 Oh man, those sides are really light! They almost look like Light Ghost Gray. I don't have near the contrast between the sides and the Medium Gray on top. Oh well. I know that it should be F4-S, but I haven't convinced myself to put the decal on that way. I'll keep mulling it over. Stupid corrosion control. I want uniformity!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticWeapons Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Darren, check your PM. LOL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graves_09 Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 I would build it with the mucked up F4-S. It shows the models uniqueness and character. Every other F-4 has it painted the right way, be different! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Build the model as it existed in real life. Otherwise it's a "what if." LOL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litvyak Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 I'm all in favour of what-iffery, but the F4-S would probably drive me nuts, too. But, when I build a RW subject I want it to be as accurate as I can get it to the RW, so for my part I'd probably opt to do a different airframe than the one with the silly "typo"... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 cutting and moving a dash does not sound like such a difficult operation. Just do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 In all probability, I'm sure it didn't stay on the A/C that long before it was repainted, how many reference photo's do you have of it? Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
f4h1phantom Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Accuracy is, for me, of the outmost importance. Hence, I would build it as it was in real life. I think the odd presentation of the BuNo as F4-S is an additional point of interest for the model, but if you don't like it try to get some other decals and do one of the "regular" jets. What I personally could not live with, is intentionally building an inaccurate model. Just my thoughts. Jorge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeC Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Accuracy is, for me, of the outmost importance. Hence, I would build it as it was in real life. I think the odd presentation of the BuNo as F4-S is an additional point of interest for the model, but if you don't like it try to get some other decals and do one of the "regular" jets. What I personally could not live with, is intentionally building an inaccurate model. Just my thoughts. Jorge. +1 - that's how it was, "warts'n'all", and the mis-painted "F4-S" is a point of interest as far as I'm concerned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe Hegedus Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Is the other side of the jet correct (F-4S istead of F4-S)? Just wondering, as it really doesn't bear on the discussion. My take is build it per the reference photo, unless you can find an image of it corrected. I prefer to use accurate/correct markings when possible, even if the rest of the build may not be 100% accurate... Just my 2 cents worth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GreyGhost Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Do it with the "F4-S" and get points deducted by the Nats Judges ... -Gregg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Emvar Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 For me it would bug me more that it was not accurate. When some smart A $$ points it out to you you can always bring them down a notch from the Stratosphere. Just my 2 cents Emil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'll go with it as it is on the decal sheet and in the pictures. I also went ahead and carefully painted the sides a lighter color. That was interesting not painting over the decals already in place. Thankfully I have some nice, small liner brushes with a fine tip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rex Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 I read this thread,,,,nodding my head at the "correct it" comments,,,,,,,,and nodding my head at the "do it exactly as it should be" comments I kept my mouth shut, because either way makes sense, and afterall it "is your model" but, sometimes in these threads, one reads things that you just HAVE to ask about,,,,,,,,so, here goes YOU can paint around applied decals without ruining the finish?? Is there a class for that, do you teach it,,,,,,how in the heck??? *I* can just barely get coats of paint down that I am happy with before I decal just thought something like that shouldn't slip through the cracks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 (edited) It depends on the decal. The national insignia on the intake was a bit tricky. I almost just painted over it and searched the spares box for something similar. I was able to get it painted, though. The NAVY by the nozzles was pretty easy. They are all straight lines. The key for me is a nice, long, thin brush that keeps its point. With that, you can do all sorts or things. I also use MM Acryl. It brushes on like a dream. I hand brushed around the decals, then masked them off with Parafilm, which won't pull them up. Then I used the fine nozzle on my Badger 150 and finished off the rest of the area. It helps that my hands don't shake! :D Edited July 13, 2012 by Darren Roberts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spruemeister Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 It helps that my hands don't shake! A few more years of El Ed might change that. Better keep an eye out for the guys in the white coats! How about pictures? That decal sheet is very inspiring by the way. Makes me wish I hadn't sold one of my F-4S kits recently. Rick L. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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