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help with 1/48 hobbyboss GR1


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-preshade the panel lines with black and then apply the colours

-run an oil wash (black artist oils diluted heavily with turpentine) into the panels. Just before it dries, use your finger to wipe it in selected places the direction that the slipstream of air would do. This simulates oil streakes.

-when painting the colours, use subtle variations on different panles

-lastly, you can try salt weathering; this is a bit more involved but gives the most realistic effect IMO.

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Just done a coat on this my very first model a gr1 in 1/48 I have never done weathering before and loking for tips on how to weather this effectively.

all help will be greatly appreciated

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Ok I assume that the picture has your GR1 in a primed state. This a good starting point and gives you a blank canvas to start with. Having been around RAF tornados most of my younger life I can tell you that they weren't always that weathered apart from the rear fuselage section where the exhaust staining kicks back over the tail when the thrust reverser buckets are opened.

There is a couple of things you can do. As the model is already primed, you could load up your airbrush (if thats what you are using) with some flat black thinned approx 50/50 or neat and spray a thin pattern over the panel lines as a preshade and then once the final camouflage is on, then use Promodellers dark wash to depict a grimmy looking jet.

Another option is to add the camouflage pattern and according to the colour of each panel, add a drop of white to the colour mix and lightly spray in the middle area of each panel to create a bleached look and follow this up with a panel line wash of a really dark grey. I would suggest you don't use black for a panel wash as it can be too stark and make it look like a grid rather than a subtle weathering job.

As for your exhaust staining, find a good reference photo of a Tornado GR1 showing the exhaust staining up the tail. To create that you could use something like Tamiya weathering pigment sets or MIG pigments and use light passes with a soft brush and slowly build up the staining. If you're good with your airbrush, and this is where dual action brushes come into being very useful, load up the airbrush with some Tamiya smoke with a touch of flat black thinned right down to about 3 parts thinners and 2 parts paint with a pressure of about 10PSI or less and gradually build up the effect.

I personnally have never built a Tornado but having tried different weathering techniques, these are the ones that work for me on pretty much everything I build but I am sure that these arent the only possibilites. Someone may have another technique to offer if you don't feel comfortable with anything I have suggested.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Good Luck

Andrew

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Ok I assume that the picture has your GR1 in a primed state. This a good starting point and gives you a blank canvas to start with. Having been around RAF tornados most of my younger life I can tell you that they weren't always that weathered apart from the rear fuselage section where the exhaust staining kicks back over the tail when the thrust reverser buckets are opened.

There is a couple of things you can do. As the model is already primed, you could load up your airbrush (if thats what you are using) with some flat black thinned approx 50/50 or neat and spray a thin pattern over the panel lines as a preshade and then once the final camouflage is on, then use Promodellers dark wash to depict a grimmy looking jet.

Another option is to add the camouflage pattern and according to the colour of each panel, add a drop of white to the colour mix and lightly spray in the middle area of each panel to create a bleached look and follow this up with a panel line wash of a really dark grey. I would suggest you don't use black for a panel wash as it can be too stark and make it look like a grid rather than a subtle weathering job.

As for your exhaust staining, find a good reference photo of a Tornado GR1 showing the exhaust staining up the tail. To create that you could use something like Tamiya weathering pigment sets or MIG pigments and use light passes with a soft brush and slowly build up the staining. If you're good with your airbrush, and this is where dual action brushes come into being very useful, load up the airbrush with some Tamiya smoke with a touch of flat black thinned right down to about 3 parts thinners and 2 parts paint with a pressure of about 10PSI or less and gradually build up the effect.

I personnally have never built a Tornado but having tried different weathering techniques, these are the ones that work for me on pretty much everything I build but I am sure that these arent the only possibilites. Someone may have another technique to offer if you don't feel comfortable with anything I have suggested.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Good Luck

Andrew

No not primed it has had about 2 thin coats of humbrol 250 matt desert pink

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-add a touch of black to the pigments you have sprayed, and use a double action airbrush to darken the panel lines and add 'blotches'

-add a touch of white to the pigments and lighten the center of some panels.

Basically you are trying to make the pane lines darker than the centre of the panel. Again, this is easier with a double action airbrush.

-use a black or brown oil wash like I said earlier.

-I think you can still do salt weathering. There are some threads on ARC that discuss this technique at length, if you are willing to give it a try.

(basically spray sme water over the plane, add some coarse salt over the surface, allow to dry/recrystalise, and then spray a slightly darker version of the base colour, in your case desert pink. When completely dry wash off the salt and voila.)

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-I think you can still do salt weathering. There are some threads on ARC that discuss this technique at length, if you are willing to give it a try.

(basically spray sme water over the plane, add some coarse salt over the surface, allow to dry/recrystalise, and then spray a slightly darker version of the base colour, in your case desert pink. When completely dry wash off the salt and voila.)

With a Gulf Tornado, I'd use the salting technique over the basic Dark Sea Grey / Green camo - the Desert Pink tended to flake off on leading edges, revealing the original European theatre camouflage.

HTH,

Andre

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