Question about scribing lines

[compressorman]

I am really wanting to build an F8 Crusader in 1/48. Unfortunately my first choice, the Hasegawa kit is exceedingly rare and expensive when you can find it. That leaves the Revell/Monogram kit which has raised lines. I have never before scribed a kit and am wondering if the following might work. Instead of sanding off the raised lines and then scribing, could you use the existing raised lines as a guide for scribing your lines and then sand them off? Like I said , I have never scribed a kit before and the thought of sanding off all of your guides and having to scribe a blank fuselage or wing is little daunting to me. It seems like it would be difficult to scribe each wing and have each of those wings come out exactly the same.

Chris

Edited September 23, 2012 by compressorman

[CrowTRobot]

Instead of sanding off the raised lines and then scribing, could you use the existing raised lines as a guide for scribing your lines and then sand them off?

Yes, you can. I used that exact technique on this Monogram F-105D.

[compressorman]

Yay! thanks for the reply!!

Chris

[Triarius]

Just be careful and use a good scribing tool and a light touch. I tried this once, but the sides of the lines were sufficiently rough on a microscopic scale to cause the scribing tool to catch, jump, and get pushed off course. Haven't tried it with the UMM scriber I now use, which is an excellent tool.

[Bob Beary]

If you use a hook type scriber such as the UMM or Olfa run it backwards along the line several times first to establish the groove.

Then, using very light pressure, pull it forward along the established groove.

Bob

[Devilleader501]

I use the UMM and it's a great tool. I have found I can scribe more effectively by pushing the scriber instead of pulling it. I feel I have more control over the scriber that way. Also I have found that I can scribe right over the panel line and cut the original raised line away at the same time. Like said above use light pressure. If you are going to use the UMM I put a small piece of rubber tubing over the end that is not being used. I have pretty big hands and the rubber tubing helps in not letting the scriber dig into my palm when I am scribing. Here is a picture showing how I hold it and also the piece of tubing on the end.

The UMM will dig deep trenches if you dont go slow. To me it is a very forgiving tool when used properly though. Hope this helps.

[galileo1]

I've tried this too (using existing raise lines as a guide) and although I do okay with straight lines, I always screw up when I need to do curved areas. The wings on the Monogram RF-101B come to mind with those semi-circled panels lines.

Rob

[I.Illes]

I'm using my razorsaw for the same task. Gentle pressure, pull and the line is ultrathin. The first dent in the blade is just perfect for that.

[Hawkeye's Hobbies]

These links might be of help

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/10/scribing-tools-the-straight-line/

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/12/scribing-the-guiding-edge/

[compressorman]

Thanks for the helpful replies guys. As soon as I got some positive opinions on this method I went ahead and ordered the plane. Probably wont start on it this year but any excuse to add to the stash right?!

Hawkeye, I read your helpful articles. I noticed that you did not include the "sewing needle in a pinvise" that I have often read as a preferred tool for scribing. Do you not like this method? I was planning to try either that or the backwards facing xacto knife.

Chris

[I.Illes]

Pin and knife tend to catch on some inaccuracies and drift left and right. You need a tool that lies straight and literally bites the plastic instead of pushing it aside. That's why I use my razorsawblade...

[Grey Ghost 531]

I use the UMM and it's a great tool. I have found I can scribe more effectively by pushing the scriber instead of pulling it. I feel I have more control over the scriber that way. Also I have found that I can scribe right over the panel line and cut the original raised line away at the same time. Like said above use light pressure. If you are going to use the UMM I put a small piece of rubber tubing over the end that is not being used. I have pretty big hands and the rubber tubing helps in not letting the scriber dig into my palm when I am scribing. Here is a picture showing how I hold it and also the piece of tubing on the end.

The UMM will dig deep trenches if you dont go slow. To me it is a very forgiving tool when used properly though. Hope this helps.

That's what I've done with scribing lines on the curved surfaces, it's easier to "aim" the tool when you're pushing it.

I use the hook and pull the tool on flat surfaces like wings. It's way faster for me that way. And, as stated several times, go slow with light pressure when using the UMM tool, it can dig in deeply if you don't take it easy.

If you're using the raised lines to guide the tool, go REALLY lightly for the first pass or you'll blow right through the raised line. Take frequent breaks to let your fingers rest. I get sloppy if I try to do too much at one sitting. Don't hesitate to fill errors and try again. Don't let the little devil on your shoulder tell you it's "good enough" or it will end up bugging you when you get the paint on and it's too late to fix it!

Edited September 25, 2012 by Grey Ghost 531

[galileo1]

Being that we're talking about scribing, do you all scribe EVERY line or do you compromise and do the ones that are most visible? Just curious...

Rob

[I.Illes]

I for one try to doublecheck with referencematerial if all the lines are correct and rescribe ALL, if the reference material allows.

[Cyrus Tan]

Lots of good advice has already been said. I've tried many scribing tools and I've come to the conclusion that most if not all of them are only good for straight lines and that includes the UMM scriber. None of them can do hatches, circles or any enclosed shapes effectively and consistantly. That being said, my weapon of choice is a simple needle in a pin vise and a razor saw. I tend to do what I.IIIes described except I use a pin vise to establish the panel line then a couple of light passes with a razor saw to remove the ridges. I also scribe every panel line including any missing ones based on line drawings, however be careful. I have found some inaccuries with some drawings so double check with photos if possible. HTH and good luck. Btw, here are a couple of my recent builds that were fully scribed. Both are Monogram.

1/48 A-4F

1/48 A-10A