RedHeadKevin Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I've been building models for quite a while now, and I've never really done any surface prep, like washing the plastic, to them before building or painting. Recently, I've had some bad experiences with Tamiya tape pulling up the underlying paint, and surface prep was pointed to as a possible culprit. Rather than risking ruining another paint job, I was wondering about the best ways to prepare a model surface for painting. Here's the rub, though: the model is mostly built, ready for paint. It's an F-22, and the cockpit, wheel wells, and missile bays are all detailed, painted and washed using watercolors. So, the option of scrubbing it under warm soapy water really isn't an option. Is there something I can wipe down the surface with, like alcohol, to remove any agents that might keep paint from adhering well? If a model is washed before construction, is that enough? Greasy fingerprints acquired during construction won't affect paint adhesion that much? Thanks for any help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Supertom Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Hi Kevin, I'm finding that the best way to get your paint to stick is to have a primer coat on, but it's too late at this point. At where you are that's not going to work unless you plan on stripping the paint and starting over. How about this? Sometimes when I want to reduce that tackiness of the tape I just stick it on the underside of my wrist and peel if off 2-3 times. I've also noticed that peeling the tape off "over itself" vs at a 90-degree angle helps sometimes. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 To answer your question: yes, those greasy fingerprints (even those you can't see that don't appear particularly greasy) do and can have serious effects on the quality of your finish. It doesn't really matter whether you use acrylics or enamels, cleaning the surface before painting is, and should be, an absolute must. Enamels are, indeed, more forgiving in this respect, but is the time and effort already expended on the model to fall victim to a moment of laziness? Laziness is the only reason not to clean, and obviously a poor one. Using a primer is not a substitute, it's like putting a coat of ordinary paint over loose rust. For an assembled kit that you can't get soaking wet, wipe the surface down with a surfactant cleaner like Formula 409 or its ilkâ€â€anything that doesn't need rinsing. This is more effective than the alcohol wipe (which isn't a bad practice, either. I've been known to do both.) Use a lint-free cloth or paper towel. For difficult to reach areas, cotton swabs work. Then blow off the surface with compressed air from your empty airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RedHeadKevin Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 No, its definitely not too late for a primer coat. I'm going to have to mask off all the holes in the airframe anyway, so a primer is going on regardless. I was mostly concerned with what kind of chemistry I could wipe down the model with. Soaking and scrubbing it are really the only no-no's. I think I'll try the rubbing alcohol wipe technique, then probably Tamiya primer, then MM enamels for most of the color. Oh, and as far as spraying on an acrylic clear coat, that's a HUGE no-no. I used markers and pens to detail the wiring in the weapon bays and wheel wells. Spraying a water-based clear coat on it dissolves the marker ink and makes everything a purple tie-dye. NO fun. Of course, purple tie dye might be your thing... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lyonkubb Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I find that a good wipe with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and a good primer (I love Mr. Surfacer cut with laquer thinner) make all the difference in the world. I wipe with IPA, allow it to flash off for at least 30min before painting. I mix the MR. surfacer 1200 with the laquer thinner thicker than most paints and spray at a higher pressure. Allow the primer to dry, wet sand smooth as necessary with fine grit. Wipe again with IPA and allow to flash off 30 min. Paint top coats- I have painted alclad over this priming method then masked stripes for an F-84 Thunderbirds scheme ON TOP OF THE ALCLAD! None of it tore up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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