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Best beginner Airbrush and Compressor?


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Hi,

My first airbrush was a Iwata Revolution BR, and actually it is still my workhorse. It is kind of cheap, easy to clean and use. I also paint pretty much everything in 1/48 scale and I am quite happy with it.

Now that I gained some experience with A/B, I just wish I could use a smaller nozzle.

Tonio

Distance, pressure and thinning are crucial: distance for fine lines is a bout an inch away from the kit, sometimes closer and with very low pressure, hence the higher thinner ratio so it won't spatter or clog.

It's not the HP-BR, but the CR but I guess, the last pictures says more than words: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/iwata-revolution-hp-cr

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Water can accumulate in your tank and will contaminate your paint, the moisture trap will catch and filter out the water so it does not get in the line and into your airbrush/paint.

When you hear of someone complaining that their Dull Cote Lacquer "Snowed" on their model, that's why.

Curt

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Thanks JRB3, i see the same at below site for less. Any experience with these guys?

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/d3000.html

Also, what does a moisture trap do?

The Chicago Airbrush Supplies is a very good vendor to deal with. They offer free shipping for over $100 order. If you are not in a hurry, I will sign up for their newsletter and wait for the next promotion (usually 10-13% off).

The D3000R is a low powered compressor and I am not comfortable with its Chinese origin. The Paasche DA400R is a much better choice for only $14 more. It offers 4 times more air flow at twice the pressure compared to the D3000R. (1.2 CFM at up to 60 psi vs. 0.3 CFM at 30 psi) The DA400R's Taiwan origin is an indication of better quality control.

A "moisture trap" traps moisture. Air has humidity which gets worse in warm climate areas. When a compressor gets warm in the cylinder and cools off when the compressed air comes out, water droplet can form and mess with the airbrushing. Even in cooler climate area, the moisture trap is a nice insurance policy.

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4 years ago, I bought my very first airbrush off eBay for about $30. These days, same airbrush only cost around $20. Gravity-fed dual action. That first AB lasted me almost 2 years. The only reason why it broke was because of misuse. My current one has been going strong since the 1st one broke down, again off eBay, costing me $20.

I also bought my very first compressor off eBay, at the same time. Only cost me $80. Still going strong today.

Just sayin'.... :whistle:

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I think I am going to get the Iwata Smart Jet Pro. A little more than what I wanted to spend, but $300 doesn't sound all that bad.

ETA: I think I will get the TC-2000 if Hobby Lobby has it in stock. The 40% off coupon expires tomorrow, so I will be able to get it a good price, which will also save money to buy other things. I'm trying to get back in the game. I haven't built a model since I was a kid (25 now), and back then I just followed the instructions: glue here, paint there (with a paintbrush) :P

I picked up a Revell 1/96 Scale USS Constitution yesterday ($85) to keep me a little busy.

Edited by dangerdan87
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Get the most expensive tools you can afford, and practice on the cheapest kits you can find.

I've just started this hobby too. I got a Harder and Steinbeck Infinity airbrush and Sparmax 610 air compressor. Best decisions I've even made.

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I went and picked up the TC-2000 air compressor today. I wasn't too happy with the $340 price tag, but since I could get it for $220, it wasn't that big of a deal. I also picked up some Vallejo Model Color paints and a few other things. It seems I have to put about a 1:1 ratio of paint to thinner to get a decent result (Using an Iwata HP-C Plus). I'm still practicing though.

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For under $300, the Paasche DC600R compressor from Micro-Mark looks pretty good: http://www.micromark.com/paasche-dc600r-air-compressor,10727.html

Another under $300 compressor is the TCP Global TC-88. It looks pretty good at $190.

ABDTC-88.JPG

All these Chinese compressors look quite good on paper, but there are few review of them yet.

The quality standard in airbrush compressor are still the Iwata and Sparmax. They may cost more, but they offer a peace of mind.

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Get the most expensive tools you can afford, and practice on the cheapest kits you can find.

Do you sell airbrush equipment?:D

Just as buying cheap stuff isn't always a bad thing, buying the most expensive equipment doesn't always guarantee success. Buy the best equipment you can afford, now that would be better advice. No problem with the cheap kit advice though.(and the infinity is a very good AB)

... I also picked up some Vallejo Model Color paints and a few other things. It seems I have to put about a 1:1 ratio of paint to thinner to get a decent result (Using an Iwata HP-C Plus). I'm still practicing though.

Don't forget to experiment with air pressure as well. There's a close correlation between thinning ratios and air pressure. As you might guess, thicker paint requires higher pressure and provides better coverage. If it's not the model air rage that you are using, I'm sure you can go even higher with your thinning ratio, while dropping the pressure very low. (And don't forget to check out this thread)

Edited by huntermountain
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After all is said and done the best beginners air brush is the Passche H single action. There are many compressors just find one that suits your needs,I have problems with the Harbor Freight aair brush compressor that comes with a air brush that is good to practice with.

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Don't forget to experiment with air pressure as well. There's a close correlation between thinning ratios and air pressure. As you might guess, thicker paint requires higher pressure and provides better coverage. If it's not the model air rage that you are using, I'm sure you can go even higher with your thinning ratio, while dropping the pressure very low. (And don't forget to check out this thread)

Excellent advise, that's why I keep my regulator at the user end of my airline, I can fine tune my air pressure easily as needed.

After all is said and done the best beginners air brush is the Passche H single action. There are many compressors just find one that suits your needs,I have problems with the Harbor Freight air brush compressor that comes with a air brush that is good to practice with.

I know the gist of this thread is "Best Beginner Brush" but with that A/B you are just too limited with what it can do and you'll hit a brick wall and your skills will not progress past that point, as I mentioned my experience with my 1st single action brush, My skill level was far past that A/B's capability the moment I put it in my hand.

Best advise given here, "Buy the Best you can afford".

Curt

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I just ordered some Vallejo model air colors also. I did find a decent pressure range for the Model Colors after I thinned them out. I still need a little more fine tuning, as it tends to spatter when I press down on the air button on the airbrush (I suppose from paint getting on/inside the nozzle).

I did a little coating with some future. The future sprays really really well with the settings I was using (running at 15 psi).

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Always start your airflow away from/off of the model, but check to see if your needle is seated correctly, there should be no paint on the tip before pulling back on the trigger.

Curt

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I'm still using my ancient Paasche "H" single action model.....with a decent size Campbell-Hausfield compressor. I havn't had any complaints with it. I think you have to find whats in your budget and comfort level. Obviously some are going to be better than others. I've just had good luck with mine.

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I know the gist of this thread is "Best Beginner Brush" but with that A/B you are just too limited with what it can do and you'll hit a brick wall and your skills will not progress past that point, as I mentioned my experience with my 1st single action brush, My skill level was far past that A/B's capability the moment I put it in my hand.

Best advise given here, "Buy the Best you can afford".

Curt

I completetly agree with what Curt says, and would like to add that a lot of people are doing themselves a disfavour by buying a single action, since they have to relearn the basic controls later on. I have seen the problem of transition from single action to double action many times, with both customers and friends, and because of that I always recommend starting with a double action.

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Excellent advise, that's why I keep my regulator at the user end of my airline, I can fine tune my air pressure easily as needed.

I know the gist of this thread is "Best Beginner Brush" but with that A/B you are just too limited with what it can do and you'll hit a brick wall and your skills will not progress past that point, as I mentioned my experience with my 1st single action brush, My skill level was far past that A/B's capability the moment I put it in my hand.

Best advise given here, "Buy the Best you can afford".

Curt

Well, then you are a natural airbrush God. It is difficult for me to imagine that any beginner would beyond the level of an H the moment they had it in their hand, as the thing most people use prior to getting an airbrush is a spray can. The learning curve for just a simple single action external mix airbrush effectively is measured in terms of a dozen or more projects. Aside from that, 90% of the spraying throughout your modeling career can be done with an H or something similar, as most spraying is general purpose and comes nowhere near demanding the capabilities of a D/A internal mix brush. I only break out my H&S Infinity when I have to do tight camo on a 1/72 aircraft. Aside from that, the H is the bulletproof workhorse for everything else.

I still say the beginning modeler is best suited getting an H, a 350, or something similar, working with it for a year or so, then when they feel it has been mastered sufficiently, add a high-end internal mix dual action to your workbench for the few spray jobs that demand it. 90% of the time the high-end brush is going to be sit in the box. Most of the time you will find yourself spraying with the simple, easy to clean, external mix brush.

As far as buy what you can afford, I agree somewhat. I all you are ever going to be able to afford is ONE brush, then get a duel action medium level brush. But if you can buy a new brush now, my assumption is you can buy another one a year or so from now. In that case, follow my advice.

Edited by DutyCat
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I still say the beginning modeler is best suited getting an H, a 350, or something similar, working with it for a year or so, then when they feel it has been mastered sufficiently, add a high-end internal mix dual action to your workbench for the few spray jobs that demand it. 90% of the time the high-end brush is going to be sit in the box. Most of the time you will find yourself spraying with the simple, easy to clean, external mix brush.

My airbrush experience is exactly the opposite. I found a better quality double action airbrush is much easier to learn from. The trigger action is more gentle and precise, thus, more tolerant of beginner mistake. I have a Paasche H for the first 10 year of airbrush modeling. I found the trigger to be touchy, the nozzle adjustment difficult to do. And worse, cleaning requires tearing the airbrush apart. I ended up avoiding airbrushing and use it only when I absolutely had to.

I switched to an Iwata HP-CS in 2008. After the first month, I wished I would have done that a long time ago. The Iwata finally allowed me to enjoy the airbrushing part of modeling. I feel that trigger is responsive to what I want to do. Changing color and cleaning is much simpler and will not drag me down.

I must admit that skillful modelers can do wonders with the Paasche H or the Badger 350. But for the average modeler, the good quality double action, gravity feed is the way to go. Besides the Iwata, I can also recommend the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, and the Badger Krome for all round modeling.

In this case, cheaper is not the easier to master. Please, share your starter experience for the new comers.

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My airbrush experience is exactly the opposite. I found a better quality double action airbrush is much easier to learn from. The trigger action is more gentle and precise, thus, more tolerant of beginner mistake. I have a Paasche H for the first 10 year of airbrush modeling. I found the trigger to be touchy, the nozzle adjustment difficult to do. And worse, cleaning requires tearing the airbrush apart. I ended up avoiding airbrushing and use it only when I absolutely had to.

In this case, cheaper is not the easier to master. Please, share your starter experience for the new comers.

Trigger touchy?...it is pretty simple.....on or off...press and release.

Nozzle adjustment difficult?...it is as simple as rotating a nozzle like any other external mix brush.

Cleaning difficult?...Well, after use, ANY airbrush should be broken down and cleaned. However, an external mix brush is far more tolerant of cleaning neglect than an internal mix brush, which has tighter tolerances. Internal mix cleaning requires that you remove, clean, and then CAREFULLY re-insert the needle, lest you damage its tip or the tapered needle housing in the airbrush itself. Certainly cleaning an external mix brush is easier than all that.

Gravity feeds are great for doing fine lines.....working with very thin paint and low pressure, but again most spraying is general purpose...far more suitable for a simple external mix brush. When I whip out my H, I can bang out a job in no time flat. When I break my H&S Infinity out, which has a .15 mm air cap, I know the paint will have to be thin, and the pressure low.

Too each their own, I guess. What works for one person may not always work for another. I guess those contemplating a new airbrush will have to sort through some conflicting advice.

Edited by DutyCat
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