Grey Ghost 531 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Air Force style rear office with an optional right side wall for the Navy style. I think I'm going to have to get a couple of these... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gb_madcat_sl Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 More sprue shots on MMZ. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
juanchopancho Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 With the Furball MiG Killer decals coming out I will be getting a bunch of these kits. I've been waiting for some good MiG killer sheets since 2007. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gene K Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 More sprue shots on MMZ. Thanks, Mark. Gogle Translate is a hoot! Gene K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChesshireCat Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 well I can tell all of you right now that my checking account is going to be in trouble for the second year in a row! I see me buying three of them right along side the new (if they come out with it) glass nosed Venturas and the Meng F102's. And my main project for the year is to reduce my stash 25%!! Gonna be a rough year for me! Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dryguy Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 (edited) Funny how some people are saying that the shape of the nose is inaccurate; got me studying some photos. Whilst maybe some of the lines are slightly, very slightly off, the canopy is in my opinion better shaped than Hasegawa's offering. Th Hasegawa phantom front canopy frame lines are two 'straight' and not oval enough at the top. The academy is version is perhaps a touch too oval but better than Hasegawa. My 2 cents. I am going to get a few of these as I think the kit looks great. It's good to see manufacturers upping their game somewhat recently. Come on academy do a PROPER f14 without the fit issues of Hasegawa!! Edited November 1, 2012 by dryguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie Cheetah Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Santa is gonna be a busy man this year! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie Cheetah Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Thanks, Mark. Gogle Translate is a hoot! Gene K Academy is the ancient god of the mold Phantom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shawn C. Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Wow. Looks great, especially the photos from MMZ. Can't wait to get my paws on one of them! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Hobby Easy, please deliver! Even if it turns out the schnoz is a little slim, the rest of it looks really, really nice! Looks like they've thought through all the changes needed to do just about the whole Phantom Phamily! I'm stoked! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrzej_MT Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I do not like the idea of multicoloured parts. But I understand the concept as being a step toward beginners. Anybody know if Academy has a practice to issue their multicoloured kits as single colour plastic, may be as a limited edition ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I do not like the idea of multicoloured parts. But I understand the concept as being a step toward beginners. Multicoloured parts won't only be nice for beginners I think. I believe it will be nice for the guys who paint their models too. Less paint coats would be necessary especially white which is a pretty tricky colour to apply (like red or yellow). A must if the model is brush painted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 I can't see where multicolored plastic makes the first, least, or single difference could possibly make to anyone who is sophisticated enough a modeler to be reading these words. You're going to paint each and every part of the model anyway, so who cares what color the plastic is? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 (edited) I can't see where multicolored plastic makes the first, least, or single difference could possibly make to anyone who is sophisticated enough a modeler to be reading these words. You're going to paint each and every part of the model anyway, so who cares what color the plastic is? white plastic means less coats of white to get good coverage. And that's about it. Personally just give me a nice light grey/cream/tan plastic and leave it at that. Edited November 4, 2012 by mawz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Been building models for 45 years, and I've never used a coat of primer yet. I've primed parts here or there, or modifications, but I've never primed a whole model... Seems like a lot of make-work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Been building models for 45 years, and I've never used a coat of primer yet. I've primed parts here or there, or modifications, but I've never primed a whole model... Seems like a lot of make-work. Exactly. If you need to primer an entire model, what are you trying to cover up? Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Exactly. If you need to primer an entire model, what are you trying to cover up? Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Alclad NMF finishes. 'Nuff said. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Alclad NMF finishes. 'Nuff said. Never again, you are right! No primer on this one with Alclad all over it! What primer that was used was to find flaws then sanded completly off, polished, then Alclad applied to reveal what you see. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 I can't see where multicolored plastic makes the first, least, or single difference could possibly make to anyone who is sophisticated enough a modeler to be reading these words. You're going to paint each and every part of the model anyway, so who cares what color the plastic is? The concept isn't exactly new. Matchbox did it a long time ago and didn't pretend it was for the "real modeler". I don't think that Academy is saying anything different, also. That said, I don't understand what the fuss is all about. Multicolored parts don't hamper "the real modeler" from achieving good results, nor it affects details. If anything, it will make white parts easier to paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Alclad NMF finishes. 'Nuff said. Tried it once, and won't use it again. I can't figure out why people continue to beat their heads against the wall with that stuff. There are other options that work as well or better that don't require 27 steps to get to the final finish. Unfortunately Hawkeye has discontinued their acrylic NMF, but I'm told the other acrylic NMF brands are equally good. The acrylic stuff recommends *against* primer coats. And good old Rub-n-Buff works *great* and doesn't require primer. Like I said - make-work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrzej_MT Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 This is just my opinion, but I find white and black plastic to be difficult to work with. I think that join line between white and grey and black plastic would be a problem as there will be difficult to see if the join line is finished right (glued, sanded, smoothed, panel line type finish - you name it). The one colour parts enable to see how the join line is finished without thinking and considering two different plastic colours. Do we know if the different coloured parts are made with absolutely the same plastic ? And what if for example white parts are made from more brittle or more hard plastic ? This will create even more problems when joining with grey/white/black. Furthermore while I appreciate the multi colour concept, I think that Academy could benefit from issuing ltd. edition single colour product, targeted at "traditional modeller" who supported the brand for years and enabled Academy to be where they are now. This could be done under philosophy "We are moving forward with new technology and concepts but we appreciate and do not forget about our traditional clients", they could add some bonuses (one more decal scheme etc.) and sell it as limited edition grey "traditional line" series. I will buy them that way. For sure I am going to buy some of these short nosed birds, and I am sure more marks are to come from Academy in the future. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seawinder Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Tried it once, and won't use it again. I can't figure out why people continue to beat their heads against the wall with that stuff. There are other options that work as well or better that don't require 27 steps to get to the final finish. Unfortunately Hawkeye has discontinued their acrylic NMF, but I'm told the other acrylic NMF brands are equally good. The acrylic stuff recommends *against* primer coats. And good old Rub-n-Buff works *great* and doesn't require primer. Like I said - make-work. Well, Jennings, I imagine nothing I say is going to change your mind, but for my part I've generally found Alclad really easy to use, with or without pre-priming the surface. I mean, you just spray it on and go. As for priming, Mr. Color 1000 is very easy to apply and doesn't need anything done to it unless you're going for a really high gloss finish. I'm seeing two steps here, max. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 For one thing, I don't use anything but acrylics when I can avoid it. Having had cancer once, I don't intend to have it again. And when there are far less volatile and carcinogenic alternatives available, I'll always go for that. Personal choice. Do whatever works for you. I've got your back if you're ever put on hospice with terminal cancer :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tricose Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Never again, you are right! No primer on this one with Alclad all over it! What primer that was used was to find flaws then sanded completly off, polished, then Alclad applied to reveal what you see. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Wow - that is one beautiful 104! Can I ask how did you do the faded US Air Force Markings on the forward fuselage? Thanks, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Wow - that is one beautiful 104! Can I ask how did you do the faded US Air Force Markings on the forward fuselage? Thanks, Thank you very much and you bet you can ask! Step 1- Applied White aluminum to the forward section of the fuselage Step 2- Using a scalpel and Tamiya tape I cut out the U.S. AIR FORCE Letters on by one. Step 3- After the letters were cut out I lined each individual letter up on the side of the fuselage. Step 4- Applied a second coat of White Aluminum with a touch of black to darken it slightly. Step 5- When the Alclad was dry (about 5 minutes later) I pulled the masking tape off. It looks sorta like the photo I had to work from, but I'm really not satisfied with the results. Step 6- I drybrushed with a shade of Alclad (don't remember which) to make the streaks down the side to weather the NMF then applied the rest of the markings. This was my first attempt at this, the next time I do this YF-104A again (yep I want to do a better one) I will do it a little different to match a better photo I now have. The U.S, AIR FORCE will be harder to read due to how the Navy got rid of it in the first place. It looked like they removed the lettering with buffers and/or scouring powder. Also the better photo revealed the white on the wings was pealing off so that is going to be fun to reproduce. The rest of the markings except the Stars and Bars and the BuNo were masked and painted on too btw. Hope that helps! Cheers Larry McCarley 21045 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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