the best airbrush "trouble free"

[amin]

hi,

Xmas is round the corner and i'm fed up with my cheap chinese unbranded airbrushes,"yes the ones with no name and nothing written on the plastic box".Which today in your opinion is the best?What is your opinion of the steenbeck and harder brand?

Edited November 20, 2012 by amin

[Charlie Cheetah]

Been using the H&S Evolution Solo now for about 2 1/2 years, I love it. Easy to use and easy to clean.

[denstore]

Lots of people seem to like them, but I don't. I have owned both the Evolution and the Infinity, and neither of them felt good to me. Just couldn't be friends with the trigger.

Also found them to wear quite quickly compared to other airbrushes I've had.

On the other hand spares are relatively inexpensive, and maintenance is made easy. But I felt that I had to strip them down often.

Best advice is to try a couple of different airbrushes, and pick the one that feels best in your hand. Try to simulate doing small movements, really close (10mm or less) to the object you are going to paint, while operating the trigger. The one that feels most controllable, it is the right one for you, whatever brand it is.

[ChippyWho]

With Charlie on this one: the H&S Evolution oozes quality and comes apart like this:

Edited November 21, 2012 by ChippyWho

[amin]

thank you everyone,this will be my Xmas gift this year.

[-Neu-]

I've said this before, the best I've found is the Iwata Revolution CR. I call it the AK-47 of the Iwata range: its cheap, has pretty good accuracy (better than most) and you can treat it like crap and it will do the job no matter what. I've had one for four years and haven't disassembled it for over two years. The cleaning regimen basically consists of putting thinner into the cup and spraying it out and wiping it clean. I'd urge you to look into it.

[Av8fan]

I have seen some fantastic work done with the CR. You can also get an optional .35 conversion kit if you want. It may or may not be necessary.

I also use the pre set handle

I like this because I find a setting that works for a given job and leave it.

whichever brush you get, practice practice practice.

[toniosky]

I've said this before, the best I've found is the Iwata Revolution CR. I call it the AK-47 of the Iwata range: its cheap, has pretty good accuracy (better than most) and you can treat it like crap and it will do the job no matter what. I've had one for four years and haven't disassembled it for over two years. The cleaning regimen basically consists of putting thinner into the cup and spraying it out and wiping it clean. I'd urge you to look into it.

Agree ! I got one and I am pretty happy with it. Might be a bit limited when you are into advanced/detail painting, even with 0.35mm conversion kit, but definitely a good choice.

Edited November 21, 2012 by toniosky

[Neo]

i have a Badger patriot 105 and i love it its real easy to use/clean

Edited November 21, 2012 by Neo

[bashace]

I've said this before, the best I've found is the Iwata Revolution CR. I call it the AK-47 of the Iwata range: its cheap, has pretty good accuracy (better than most) and you can treat it like crap and it will do the job no matter what. I've had one for four years and haven't disassembled it for over two years. The cleaning regimen basically consists of putting thinner into the cup and spraying it out and wiping it clean. I'd urge you to look into it.

I concur with the Iwata Revolution CR, been using it for 5 years now and still love it.

[speedlimit]

I also vote Iwata Revolution. Been using for 6 years. Used it from general purpose to detail painting. Easy to disassemble, clean and assemble back.

Eric

[amin]

which model of Iwata revolution compares to H S evolution and infinity ?

[Cyrus Tan]

which model of Iwata revolution compares to H S evolution and infinity ?

I would say none. The Revolution models are entry level brushes and is comparable to the the H&S Ultra. The Iwata HP Plus is a closer comparison to the H&S Evolution and the Iwata Hi-Lines are closer to the Infinity, however others may disagree. Some say the Infinty compares to the Micron because of the nozzle size, but IMO it's an Evolution with additional features. They perform the same and most of the parts are interchangable.

[denstore]

I would say none. The Revolution models are entry level brushes and is comparable to the the H&S Ultra. The Iwata HP Plus is a closer comparison to the H&S Evolution and the Iwata Hi-Lines are closer to the Infinity, however others may disagree. Some say the Infinty compares to the Micron because of the nozzle size, but IMO it's an Evolution with additional features. They perform the same and most of the parts are interchangable.

The real problem is that non of them really compare. As you say, the difference between the Evolution and Infinity are mostly of features. And I would even stretch that to include the Ultra. Since nozzles (0.2-0.6, but not the 0.15) and needles are interchangable beteen all these models, in reality, they perform very much the same. The airvalve and the trigger is as far as I know the same on all of the H&S line.

Most of the Iwatas perform very different, even with similar nozzle sizes, much because of the differences in the airvalves. In my opinion the greatness of the Microns has very little to do with the nozzles, and instead very much with the feel and performance of the trigger and airvalve. The Microns are a lot better at atomizing paint at low pressure. For most modellers it doesn't matter that much, and the cost of the Micron isn't justifiable. But for people who like to thin their paint very much, and like to work with shades and hues, the Microns are excellent, and in my opinion, they are the best detailing airbrushes available and managable to normal people. Probably the Paasche AB is even a notch better when it comes to fine detail, but dialing it in takes an enginering degree..... ;)

[Flyingfortress]

Harder and Steenbeck for me! Reliable, simple to use and a snap to clean, so easy even I can do it!!!!

[AlCZ]

What is price in USA ? In Czech is Harder-Steenbeck relative cheap, you know-Germany is at the corner. I have a three years an Evolution Silver line and it is a great AB. Maintance is dumb-proof, have a " stop trigger". In Czech is very popular Infinity, but it is the same as Evo, only with click "trigger stop". Jets, needles - all is similar. But i read a Iwata is number one, but here is relative expensive. Any reviews says - Evo have similar - or best perfomance as Iwata. I like Hardeer-Steenbeck and my second "gun" was probably a cheapest Ultra. But - what Sotar ? Here have a very good reputation as "elite class" of airbrush. It is american mark - in US must be cheap, no ?

When you can buy a Harder-Steenbeck- yes, it is a very good airbrush, i can recommend it. (Evolution Silverline)

[amin]

its German.

[-Neu-]

Agree ! I got one and I am pretty happy with it. Might be a bit limited when you are into advanced/detail painting, even with 0.35mm conversion kit, but definitely a good choice.

Absolutely. A few years ago I got a nice HP-C for cheap which I use for detail work. However before that I learned some tricks to get the most out of the CR. I'd probably use it for 95% of my work now given how reliable and consistent its performance is.

[amin]

using the HS evolution or infinity "same thing" 0.2mm needle are you able to do a cammo job such as a RAF WW2 2 color tone free hand clearly demarcated without a slight haze over the bottom color ? or in my case i intend to paint my upcoming Avenger in RAF north atlantic white,slate grey and OD colors when the decals get here and i dont want any grey or OD spray over the white .

[denstore]

Overspray hasn't so much to do with the choice of airbrush as it has to do with how you thin your paint and what your air pressure you use.

And airbrushes are rarely a substitute for masking. Sure, there are instances where you can use the airbrush for demarcated lines as you describe, but most airbrushes can do that. It's more a question of technique, paint thinning and low pressure. You need to get close and angle the airbrush towards the area where the overspray doesn't matter matter. Try to find out how low air pressure you can use, and still have a decent atomisation. Thin your paint so that it can be used at or close to that low air pressure. With this low pressure and thin paint you have to slowly build up every detail. You won't get a clear solid line directly.

[amin]

i can get below one PSI easy with my standard regulator,i believe a slightly dense mix is better to avoid runing.the angle and distance is very important too,it is interesting to note that you believe any airbrush can be that precise if you have a regulator and a .2mm needle.The HS video shows their airbrush drawing a thin line.I really want to try this myself.

[Horrido]

The HS video shows their airbrush drawing a thin line.I really want to try this myself.

You need to keep in mind the medium being sprayed through the airbrush as well. I suspect the demonstration used some form of ink. Achieving this with hobby paints is possible, just very fiddly and problematic.

[amin]

ahhhhh!!! thanks for pointing this out,i never thought of that.Obviously formulation, density etc has a lot to play in this.today i tried to zero in more on my helldiver 3 tone free hand at approx 1 psi with my chinese stone age airbrush using Gunze aqueous with a dense mix but still its far from going down to that precision.

[Horrido]

The nozzle/tip/needle combination should be compatible with the medium being sprayed. Thick/coarse medium prefers a wider nozzle for even flow and reduced spatter and overspray.

[AlCZ]

Yup, i forgot - a Harder-Steenbeck have a nickel coating. Nickel may be an allergen. Before a year using have a AB body spots from perspiration. But Harder-Steenbeck made too CR series-and this is with chrome coating. When it's isn't a CR series - it is a nickel coating.