Best way to fill ejector pin marks

[Janissary]

Hi, I have not been able to figure out the best way to deal with these ejector pin marks:

Filling the pin marks is not too much trouble. I have used styrene disks, putty, primer, melted sprue, and white out, which are all ok. I am not fond of solutions involving filling with a thick liquid and wiping the excess of, because I think it is very difficult to lose the circular silhouette using such techniques. Some sort of sanding I think is necessary.

So, my problem is sanding/leveling. I don't know of a good way sanding them flush, as they are in difficult places, None of the tools I have seem to be working well. Any ideas you can suggest?

[Kaibutsu]

Janissary,

A project in itself, but it may work for you.

http://www.modellversium.de/tipps/1-werkzeuge/1-.html

[strikeeagle801]

Maybe not a tool at all. I found out that if I get the cotton swabs with the long wooden handles, that I can super glue some sand paper onto the cotton and get into some tight spots. You might also be able to make the other end more of a chisel and super glue some sandpaper onto that and use it to get into tight spaces.

Aaron

[Netz]

Those spots are a breeze to remove, you just need (as above) a small curved blade and scrape down the high areas around the punch mark, On the nose gear door pictured,using the tip of the blade towards that wall with the rivets, start a side to side scraping motion and roll the curved blade into the material needing to be removed, working your way out evenly, do not use the actual point as this will cause a grove that will have to be worked out, just let the rounded portion of the blade to do the work.

With those bigger doors don't stress on bringing down the entire door evenly just the areas around the punch mark, it will hardly be noticeable.

Curt

I'll pitch this idea to my buddy Luis to add to his You Tube Chanel.

[coladito1]

Here is how:

Thank you Curt!!

[spejic]

If the problem is sanding in difficult to reach areas, there is a simple solution. Cut out small piece of sandpaper and hold it in some tweezers. I use a cylinder of sandpaper to get an edge effect or shape it in a "T" form to get a flat surface.

This way it's easy to change the shape and grit and orientation of the sanding surface to whatever you need, and you can easily shift things when the sandpaper gets worn out.

[Netz]

Edited January 14, 2013 by Netz

[Janissary]

Thank you very much everybody for your suggestions, all are very promising ideas and I will try to incorporate them. I tried scraping with the curve idea. Unlike the video, I filled the marks with tamiya liquid primer, then did the scraping. It actually is not too bad. I think I would follow that with the small sanding paper held with tweezers, but I have not done that yet.

I appreciate all the responses and the graphical/video illustrations everybody provided.

[galileo1]

For deeper holes I use my Waldron punch and die sets. I find the size I need, punch a disk, glue, and sand flush. I have tried lots of other ways but, so far, nothing is better than having real plastic in there to get a real flushed piece.

For hard-to-reach areas (where you can't use a sanding stick), I use my Mission Model Micro chisel and just scrape away. Had to do this inside the front gear bays of my Hasegawa A-4 recently and works amazingly well.

Rob

Edited January 16, 2013 by TOPGUN

[rednef]

Thanks Netz, I wish there was a 'thanks' button feature on the forum for stuff like this.