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I am about to buy Milliput for the first time. I want to use it on my figures to change some of them by cutting parts off (the arms, legs) and redoing them to put the figures in the positions that i want. What type do I buy, super fine, silver grey? AND does anybody have any experience doing so. I have seen posts to where some people recreate the figures to kneel (like on the the aircraft carriers for crew members launching aircraft ) and some people will create new flight helmets for their fighter pilots. I need some advice on what type of Milliput to buy and do i use water to soften the milliput etc.

Tomcat Lover

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I'll agree with Curt, buy the Superfine. I use it all the time, (except on Tamiya P-51s - no filler needed :-) )

As you probably know, Milliputcomes as two sticks which need mixing. The trick is to mix exactly the same amounts of filler and hardener - how I achieve that is to roll out a small "sausage" of each part, making sure they're the same diameter, then use equal lengths.

HTH

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Roughen the plastic in places you want the putty to stick to. Use the water to smooth the surface after you apply the putty, not to soften the putty beforehand (because it will turn soupy and get all over the place). Be gentle when you sand it. It will take 24 hours before you can sand it, maybe more if you didn't mix it exactly 50:50 or mix it well. And you need to mix it really, really well. I usually flatten it, fold it, flatten it again, and repeat.

Milliput is messy. You are going to get white residue on your fingertips and whatever else the putty touches. Plan your workspace accordingly.

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Its great stuff and water will dissolve it - perfect for those pesky seams where sanding will obliterate all detail. Now - I have not had a ton of luck in scribing it but I have not had to do that too much. If you must scribe - get a micro saw.

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  • 4 weeks later...

There's a couple of videos out there from Squadron where they show how to use milliput for seatbelts and cockpit / wheel well wiring as well. They make it look really easy, and there's not a whole lot of complex bending as you would maybe have with actual wire, and you can craft your own diameters without having to buy eight different spools of wire.

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No. That's the beauty of the reactive systems. No solvents to evaporate and leave a void.

That's not totally true. It does shrink a very little bit. Not nearly as much as squadron or something so it's not noticable when filling seams etc... But when you sculpt with it you do need to take a little shrinking in to account.

Here is a thread of a figure I'm currently working on. http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=259903

You can see where the seam running down the side of his pants widened up slightly once it cured. Nothing that a little filling won't fix, but still something to be aware of. I'm still learning myself but so far it's working great.

Bill

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I've used Milliput numerous times and I will echo what others have already stated... it's messy! I use something called Apoxie Sculpt. The stuff doesn't shrink and you can re-wet it to make it more pliable as you work. It's no where near as messy as Milliput IMHO. Check out the customer reviews to Amazon link.

Another suggestion is Tamiya light cure putty. This stuff is amazing! It has the a very similar texture to plastic and cures in minutes if exposed to UV light. It will also cure if exposed to incandescent or flourescent lighting, but the curing time will take longer. The only bummer is you have to purchase it overseas and it's a bit expensive (about $20 last I checked). It was available when it first came out, but due to labeling issues Tamiya USA hasn't been able import them since.

HTH?

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With an scriber its better to scribe any lines. When I shape a shape, i wait about 3 hours of drying and remove some material to save time on cutting and sanding to the final shape. Scribing is not that good as you may go too deep beforore you know it.

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