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peter havriluk

painting/masking 'framed' windows

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Folks,

I have been a registered member for quite a while, mostly inactive. Activity picking up, and I will be grateful if I can come to a good result with my masking problem: Right now I have two 1/72 models in progress, a Mosquito and a B-25. Both have canopies and nosecones consisting of many clear panels separated by framing. I think it would be difficult and maybe unsatisfactory to mask each clear panel and spray the whole fuselage, framing and all, and remove the mask after the clearcoat's been applied. This technique is just a very small-scale version of what I'd do if I was finishing the prototype. But in model-land, working with small areas to mask and lots of opportunity for the paint to bleed under the masking, is one of the common practices to mask off the transparency entirely and paint the framing with foam microbrushes instead of masking off each window panel and paint the framing in the course of painting the fuselage? I'd love to know the generally-accepted technique. And I might just be over-thinking, too.

Thanks very much.

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I think the best results are as you said, mask each individual panel and paint the whole model at the same time.

Masking is a pain, but pre-cut masks are defiantly worth their money here, once masking is applied you can 1st spray a clear coat as this will seal the masking to prevent the bleed through you mentioned.

I don't like hand painting the frames as one, the color doesn't blend well with the sprayed paint, and 2 sometimes it is a bit transparent.

Curt

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Alternatively, you could paint a decal piece in the colour that you want, cut it into the appropriate slices and apply onto the frames. You could also paint thin strips of masking tape like these:

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?GenreCode2=all&Word=micron+masking+tape&x=0&y=0

Some are as thin as 0.4mm. Small dabs of clear coat or white glue will help to secure them once you've pasted them on top of the framings.

As an aside, if you do get some paint bleed onto the clear part, you could scratch it away using a toothpick.

:cheers:

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Clearcoat first - - - never thought of applying that technique to canopy and window areas. Use it all the time for color separations and striping, first overcast the masked area with the base color. Much obliged.

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I have covered small canopies with bare-metal foil, burnished the foil down very tight (use a toothpick), then using a FRESH #11 blade, cut away the frames....I've successfully done this with 1/144 canopies :-)

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Never thought of bare-metal foil, but it makes a whole lot of sense, due to its thinness. The framing is well enough defined after burnishing to allow a painter to cut it away with some precision, the biggest problem with masking/electrical tape.

Thanks very much.

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The only draw back with Bare Metal Foil is the adhesive, you can't leave it on too long or the adhesive will stick to the plastic when you try to remove it. Try Para-Film, it works good, but I still recommend the pre-cut masks and a clear coat sealer.

Curt

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If you are unsure about doing any of these techniques on your mossie or mitchell's canopies, test them out on an old canopy from your parts bin first. If and when you find a result your happy with move on to your mossie and mitchell's canopies.

Just my 2 cents,

Steven L :wave:

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