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Hello,

This is my first posted model, an A10 for ground support ops in the 'Stan. I did the two-tone desert camo using Krylon sand & brown, the kit is OOB except the 4 gun pods from 2 of Monograms F-5 kits. Decals are stock that came with the kit for Davis-Monthan AFB.

Revells 1/48th A-10A "strafing machine" equipped with:

-2x GBU-16 Paveways

-4x SUU-23 20mm gun pods

-GAU-8 Avenger 30mm cannon

-ALQ-119 jamming pod

I obviously pale in comparison to the majority of the wonderful builds on this site, but here goes.......

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Edited by SigfanUSAF
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Do a flat coat, remove the canopy masking and it'll be even better....

Other than that, I'd suggest some work on the centre seams.

Your demarcation lines on the camo, however, are beautiful, what did you use to mask?

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Thank you for the kind feedback!

I dull coated it today.

Krylon works great on the Revell/Monogram models, it hides a lot more than the $6.49 Model Master paints.

The seams were done with blue painters tape. I put strips of 2" tape on my shop window and scribe out patterns with a hobby knife. After a day of drying I lightly sand the entire model with 1200 grit paper. This blends the color seams and brings out the raised panel lines.

I didn't notice the joint seams at first, but they certainly do stand out in the pics!

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love this overall.

My 2 cents, cut down the white to a very light grey and add a wash. The white is too blinding. The wash will also show more details adding to the visual interest.

In fact, try a wash over the entire airframe for the same reasons.

:cheers:

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love this overall.

My 2 cents, cut down the white to a very light grey and add a wash. The white is too blinding. The wash will also show more details adding to the visual interest.

In fact, try a wash over the entire airframe for the same reasons.

:cheers:/>

Sorry, but what do you mean by a wash?

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Sorry, but what do you mean by a wash?

Sometimes called a "Panel line wash", it is a techniquie of applying a very thin wet coat of usually a dark accent that will seep into recesses giving shadow, depth, or an appearance of weathrering from dirt and oil stains depending on how cleanly it is whiped off.

Here is a good article on it from the Tools & Tips page: http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/101-200/tnt122-panellines-Wickham/00.shtm

A couple of notes:

- should be done over a glosscoat or glossy surface (I know you have matt-coated now, but no worries doing this still in landing gear bays or the speedbracke areas in white. You can use a wet Q-tip to whipe off excess in these areas.

- Can be done post-decalling, but again best if the decals have been sealed with a glosscoat like Future

- I reccomned ProModeler's Wash, you can get it from SprueBrothers.com

- Using strait black can be too contrasting. The ProModeler's wash is actually a dark gray.

IMO- Washes are a MUST for recessed areas like landing gear bays, cockpits, flaps & slat hinge areas. Plastic molding requiers rounded corners and detail compromises which do not normally allow these natural shadows to form on the finished model. The wash compensates for this. Heavier washes can be used for additional weathering and wearing of surfaces. You will find some real aircraft that you can see some panel lines from 100 yards away, others not so much. This techinque is often overdone as much as it is underdone and is part of the art in modeling.

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As far as wash is concerned, apart from specialized wash product like ProModeler (which can be fairly expensive), you can also make your own using paint. "Wash" is basically highly thinned paint after all (80-90% thinner, 10-20% paint).

Since you used rattle can on your A-10, I'd recommend using a pure water-based acrylic paint to make your own wash, rather than using enamel or lacquer-based paint. You can buy any cheap kid's acrylic paint that can be thinned (and cleaned) with water. Don't use alcohol-based acrylic paint (e.g. Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous), since it may eat into the lacquer that a lot of rattle can paints seem to be based on.

For your paint scheme, I think the best wash colour is Burnt Umber with a tiny bit of Black.

Yell out if you have more questions...

HTH.

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...I'd recommend using a pure water-based acrylic paint to make your own wash, rather than using enamel or lacquer-based paint. You can buy any cheap kid's acrylic paint that can be thinned (and cleaned) with water...

A quick note about washes. When I first started out, I used watercolor paints. The kind we used to use as kids in primary school. They're super cheap and very forgiving. Since they're water based, they're easy to remove (assuming you've applied them over a gloss coat) if you've made a mistake. They're not as opaque as some of the other options, but under a flat coat they look the part. Like I said, they're a pretty good option to start with, since they're so forgiving.

Cheers,

-O

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A quick note about washes. When I first started out, I used watercolor paints. The kind we used to use as kids in primary school. They're super cheap and very forgiving. Since they're water based, they're easy to remove (assuming you've applied them over a gloss coat) if you've made a mistake. They're not as opaque as some of the other options, but under a flat coat they look the part. Like I said, they're a pretty good option to start with, since they're so forgiving.

Cheers,

-O

This. I picked up a pint bottle of black, and pint of brown tempra paints at Hobby Lobby...both 1.79 a piece, and I've had great success with both of them. Mix them together for an ideal mixture. No fuss, and probably a lifetimes worth of wash. Just be careful when cleaning up, as they will pull pretty easy..even if dried.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Actually, that's pretty cool! I agree with Toad, do a wash over the entire model to tone it down and dirty her up just a bit. Neat concept with the gun pods, if that doesn't make a Taliban poop his shorts I don't know what will!

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