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Hello Alexander and Marcel, thanks for the support and kind words guys, much appreciated. I suspect that this kind of in-depth build thread only appeals to a minority of modellers as I'm guessing most folk like to see alot of progress or else they get bored. I do hope however that those who choose to endure the updates manage to glean the odd useful bit of information. ^_^

I've been having a closer look at the intakes lately so here are a few observations.

Tamiya break each intake mouth down into three components, two walls and the varable ramp.

Intakes_zpsb83dc442.jpg

There is a little tidying up to do but nothing too challenging, just some mold mark removal.

The tiny holes that cover areas of the variable ramps are molded in relief on the kit parts whereas they should be hollow. Eduard offer replacements in their Strike Eagle exterior etch set. It's simply a matter of removing the raised detail and glueing on the etch.

Intakes1_zpsc6f3429b.jpg

Checking out the exterior detail reveals neat and sharp recessed panel lines

Intakes2_zps059b75c2.jpg

which look,.......umm,.......well,..... :unsure: wrong :blink:

If we have a look at the real deal these lines appear to be raised caulking or sealant

Intakes11_zpsccc0de8b.jpg

The only solution is to add raised panel lines.....(I can hear a collective gasp from all those who fastidiously re-scribe their kits :lol: )using stretched sprue and extra thin cement.

Intakes4_zps6207acd2.jpg

A quick swipe with a sanding stick should make the raised detail less obvious

BTW, Tamiya sprue stretches really well.

Next up, the intake trunking. Just a couple of notes for anyone building this kit. There is a supplementary wall to add within the main gear well which gives interior detailling. None of the detail is visible with the main gear doors closed but on my kit, this supplementary bulkhead caused some fitment problems. Easily remedied with a trusty sanding stick (is n't everything?)

Intakes3_zps4943a08e.jpg

Another element that affects the sit of the trunking is a little nub and pin for aligning the upper and lower intake trunking components.

Intakes7_zps0002610d.jpg

I was forced to remove it to allow the trunking to sit correctly in the fuselage.

Intakes6_zpsa44df9da.jpg

With everything dry-fitted in place I'm getting other issues and I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has built this kit to compare their experiences. Firstly, the intake mouth parts don't sit all the way back against the fuselage which leaves quite a gap.

Intakes10_zpsbb73827f.jpg

Also, there are large holes in the interior walls of the intakes... :blink:

Intakes8_zpsa390a9b4.jpg

and lastly, the top edge of the fuselage appears to be mdelled at too steep an angle.

I'm sure the last item is down to Tamiya wishing to allow movement of the nodding intake mouths but have any of you guys had the other issues?

Time to put on my thinking cap and work out how I'm going to make this look more like the image of the real deal I posted further up the page....

cheers.

:cheers:

Edited by geedubelyer
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Hello Alexander and Marcel, thanks for the support and kind words guys, much appreciated. I suspect that this kind of in-depth build thread only appeals to a minority of modellers as I'm guessing most folk like to see a lot of progress or else they get bored. I do hope however that those who choose to endure the updates manage to glean the odd useful bit of information. ^_^

:cheers:

Hi Guy. The interest in your build thread should be measured by the number of hits, which in the case of a geedubelyer build, is always HUGE! There are only a hand full of modelers that I track consistently and you are at the top of the list. Many, like me, check every one of your posts, which I plan on using as a reference guide when I build my next Eagle. As always, your modeling work is precise, well explained and just plain awesome!

BTW, I am really enjoying your leading edge modeling experiments like the stretched sprue for seam beading. Very cool.

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Guy, nice progress... and wow, that's the first time I noticed that detail being raised!

On my Strike Eagle, I pretty much just superglued all the intake gaps, including those around the lower lip rotation point, and rescribed. No way you can leave as-is. Unfortunately, you may lose the raised detail you painstakingly added if you do this.

:cheers:

Marcel

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Hello Guy. This is great! I admire the fact that you really do look for ways to make the model look "real". I agree with you on the recessed panel lines. They ARE always too deep or even too wide, but there is nothing most of us can do about it!!! Adding metal foil panels is out of the question for the average guy and just painting the panel lines on would take a genius!!! I can't wait to see what you come up with... I am always watching yer progress and most of the time I can't comment, since I'm just not worthy :blink:/> :D/>

I do have a question on how the heck you remove the plastic for the metal engine feathers??? Careful scraping with a sharp blade, followed by filing and sanding? I always want to remove plastic in this type of situation, but I get overwhelmed and simply move on with the build!

/Jesse

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I watch your threads and chuck threads as well. I have learned so much from watching your builds. This is Richard tomcat lover (I decided to change my username with just Tomcat-Lover) and being new to model building it is inspiring to watch you guys in motion. I only work on 1:32 scale projects as well and the F15 C eagle is on my list in the future. My father was a fighter pilot in the Air Force and he mainly flew the F16 Falcon but he was qualified on the F15 as well. I will be watching your build very closely, and just like all of you and chuck builds they are amazing.

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Hi Chuck, thanks for stopping by and many thanks for the words of support, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the threads and hope that we get to see an Eagle "kicked up a notch" soon.

On my Strike Eagle, I pretty much just superglued all the intake gaps, including those around the lower lip rotation point, and rescribed.

Unfortunately, you may lose the raised detail you painstakingly added

Marcel

Hi Marcel, I think you've hit the nail on the head. The gaps on the "-C" are even more obvious than the "-E" so I may well do exactly as you did. Thankfully, adding the raised detail did n't take too much time or effort.

I do have a question on how the heck you remove the plastic for the metal engine feathers??? Careful scraping with a sharp blade, followed by filing and sanding? I always want to remove plastic in this type of situation, but I get overwhelmed and simply move on with the build!

/Jesse

Hi Jesse, good to see you, thanks for your kinds words. To answer your question I used a chisel first, then scraping, then filing. I've still got the upper fuselage feathers to finish so I'll try to get some photos of the process and post the up.

Hello Richard, glad you stopped by, thanks for taking the time to add a comment. There's nothing like the impact of a big 1/32nd jet on your display shelves. I look forward to seeing what you build.

Btw, what decal are you going to use?

Mike

Hi Mike, I do feel pretty jazzed about this build at the moment but it's still in it's infancy and I do have the exhausts to tackle at some point...... :whistle:

I'm hoping to use a set of the USAFE Lakenheath Eagles by DACO. I ordered a set at the end of January but have n't heard anything since. I dropped Danny a line over the weekend to ask on the status of my order but have n't heard anything back yet.

Here's a bit of an update.

I've been looking at the intakes some more and considering how to get a more authentic

profile along the edge of the fuselage to the area aft of the nodding intake mouth

5117fbd86621c.jpg

You might see in the above image that the line is smooth and flowing. This bit on the kit drops at quite an angle.

5117fc668ed43.jpg

Also, to my eyes, the depth at the rear of the intake is a shade too deep by comparison to the actual airframe. I added some sacrificial plastic extrusion so that I could sand it back and approximate what the real deal looks like.

51180571127c2.jpg

511805951d9c1.jpg

I also had a chance to rectify the exhausts and access panels that are molded on the upper rear fuselage and a leftover from the F-15E kit.

5118060774243.jpg

511806123c317.jpg

Whilst I was at it, I opened up the grille at the wing root over the gun barrels. If I can

find any mesh fine enough I'll replace that detail before I close it up.

5118062b3b886.jpg

One last thing to show before I close. I have scratched some FOD guards for the intake mouths.

I made a template from plasticard and added a couple of short lengths to the back of it as a handle.

5117f98065060.jpg

I used Citadel "Green stuff" to form the vinyl covered foam intake plugs, sculpting the folds with various tools before adding metal foil handles.

5117fa520c43d.jpg

After a coat of Chaos black primer we get a glimpse at how these will look when finished.

5117facf13ae6.jpg

By coincidence the ones I've seen used by the 493rd are also black.

There are two styles, one with a band and one without. Does anyone think there is a market for these? If so I'll ask Chris if he'd like to cast them..... :hmmm:

Thanks for having a look. Back before long with more.

Cheers.

:cheers:

Edited by geedubelyer
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Nice progress, interesting what you are doing to those panellines on top, curious how that will turn out:

Some pics of the topside of a F-15A , pretty worn down but might be of some help for your project

Rothenburgokt2007396.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007397.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007398.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007400.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007391.jpg

Mark,

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Hi Mark, thanks for the kind words.

Super photos of the F-15A but wow! she's seen better days huh? :blink:/> Replicating that faded paintwork would represent a challenge. :wacko:/>

Where is this airframe based? Do you have any more images of her that you could share please?

What your photos illustrate is that there are panel lines and rivets galore when seen under such conditions. These pics will be a good reference for anyone re-scribing or re-rivetting an Eagle.

I have n't made any progress on the Eagle but I did take a couple of snaps of how I removed the plastic where the feathers where so I thought I'd share the technique.

I started with a flat chisel. This is part of a five piece set designed for wood or leather carving that I bought some time ago.

511a985fec83a.jpg

There are one or two things to remember when you start.

Firstly, don't try to take the whole lot off in one go. By being patient and removing a little material at a time you have more control and are less likely to slip. It's not a race so take your time and you'll benefit in the long run.

Also, be very careful when using sharp blades. Never hold the piece with your hand in front of the blade. Always hold the piece behind the blade so that if you do slip, you don't bury the steel upto it's hilt in the softest part of your other hand.... :gr_barf:/>

Brace your fingers aganst the work where possible and start with a firm base. Push with just your fingers rather than your whole hand to keep better control and if necessary use many short stroke rather than attempt one long one. (Sound advice for other aspects of life too.... :whistle:/> )

The next most important thing is putting your tongue in the correct place. I've found that if I poke the tip of my tongue just outside my mouth I get a much better control of the blade. Experimentation is the key here. See what's comfortable for you. Try each corner or even in the middle. Poke it out more or less and even waggle in time with the blade as you remove the plastic. Whatever works for you.

Next up, tidying the curls of plastic. I found that by tilting the blade vertically I could keep the edge tight to the mold line and gently draw it along removing the curls as I went.

511a9a2d817d0.jpg

To give me a nice, neat edge I finished up with a scalpel blade and worked slowly and carefully. For this step I made sure to angle the blade away from the direction of travel so that I got a smooth action without it digging in.

511a9a8aaeb0d.jpg

The last step was to clean up the surface and smooth it out with a fine file.

511a9ac03ad52.jpg

I hope these quick tips help.

Cheers.

:cheers:

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Its located in the Technick museum at Speyer in Germany. Its F-15A 74-109. I took a small walkaround in 2007, it was in pretty bad shape and missing some parts. No idea what its state is at the present

Some pictures of the area you are working on (it still has the tailhook fairing)

Rothenburgokt2007336.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007337.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007339.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007341.jpg

Rothenburgokt2007342.jpg

Edited by 31Tiger
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WOW! There you go again, Guy! This is definitely going to take modeling up to a whole new level esp how you are going to deal with the panel lines. Plus your attention to detail is simply amazing! Looking forward to more updates on this one. Got my nice comfy chair and popcorn ready at hand! :lol:

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Superb photos Mark, thanks for sharing them. Please add as many as you'd like. The image of the Bolers FOD guard is great. I will attempt to re-create that and make a pair with the band across the middle.

Hi Qian and Ken, thanks for stopping by and for your generous words of encouragement, much appreciated. I'm glad you're enjoying things thus far.

Look what arrived in the post today, a taste of things to come......

511d54a00bd6a.jpg

This set is a new design and now features the turkey feather attachment points at the tip of each petal. They look good and will save alot of work later. Thank you Mr.Parkins. :thumbsup:

Cheers.

:cheers:

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Its located in the Technick museum at Speyer in Germany. Its F-15A 74-109. I took a small walkaround in 2007, it was in pretty bad shape and missing some parts. No idea what its state is at the present

In even worse shape. I took a few pics of it in late 2011. By this time they had it placed on stands, but parts were still missing. At least you could walk under it now, so I took a few pics of the underside. Not a lot though, as it was getting quite late in the day and already getting dark.

PA300441_zps6145bef4.jpg

I have a few not so bad pics of the main landing gear, if you need it.

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In even worse shape. I took a few pics of it in late 2011. By this time they had it placed on stands, but parts were still missing. At least you could walk under it now, so I took a few pics of the underside. Not a lot though, as it was getting quite late in the day and already getting dark.

I have a few not so bad pics of the main landing gear, if you need it.

Hi Pete, yes please, that would be very nice thank you.

Another piece of the jigsaw puzzle arrived in the post this morning:

511fd17c77729.jpg

511fd195deb4f.jpg

These are from DACO productions and include enough serial numbers to create the jet I'd like. One thing more that I'll need to source is the newer style of squadron badge for the left hand intake side.

I suspect that I might need to make my own. Anyone have a source for some quality waterslide decal paper.....?

Cheers.

:cheers:

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Alright, here's what I have.

Left main gear door:

PA300442_zpsd340f357.jpg

Left main wheel:

PA300443_zps3c67b425.jpg

Right main gear:

PA300453_zps775fb47a.jpg

More of the right main gear:

PA300454_zps9e155606.jpg

One more:

PA300455_zps43ba2ff3.jpg

Tailhook:

PA300452_zps4a867cc3.jpg

Like I said, just a few pics but maybe they're of use.

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Hi Pete, yes please, that would be very nice thank you.

Another piece of the jigsaw puzzle arrived in the post this morning:

511fd17c77729.jpg

511fd195deb4f.jpg

These are from DACO productions and include enough serial numbers to create the jet I'd like. One thing more that I'll need to source is the newer style of squadron badge for the left hand intake side.

I suspect that I might need to make my own. Anyone have a source for some quality waterslide decal paper.....?

Cheers.

:cheers:/>

Guy, not sure how recent of a print those decals are, just be aware they may be a bit stubborn to settle down and conform. I have that sheet and used a few markings on an non "LN" subject, and the decals were very stubborn. Just a head's up ;-)

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Awesome project so far, Guy! I'm glad to see another 1/32 "quick build" laugh.gif/> from you on ARC...seriously, I love the wine bottle foil exhaust fin 'thingys' - yours look exactly like the reference pics!! (On a side note, I recently mentioned a "need" for some "WBF" to a bartender I know, and two days later, a friend from that establishment presented me with a big bag of the stuff! Coool...)

If no one's mentioned it yet, here are a couple decal paper sources that have worked well (for me) in the past:

BMF/ experts choice:http://www.policecarmodels.com/blankdecalfilm.htmlhttp://www.policecarmodels.com/blankdecalfilm.html

Micromark:

http://www.micromark...ecal-paper.html

I've also used the Testor's sheets with good results, although they are the smaller size (4"x6"?)

I'll be checking in more often so I don't miss this stuff...along with your artisan-level work, I have a friend wanting to sell me this kit, but I figured it needed so much 'improvement' that I would pass...you're rapidly changing my mind, in an inspiring way!happy.gif/>

271.gif/> & 70.gif/>

-Rob

P.S. I know postage US-UK has gotten outrageous, so if you need a 'workaround', gimme a buzz...maybe I can help.

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Another super project coming from your workbench, Guy!

Can't understand how I missed this WIP earlier, but now I'm hooked. :o/>

Hi Anders, glad you got here, good to see you. I hope you enjoy the build as it goes along too. Anything new in your neck of the woods?

Guy, not sure how recent of a print those decals are, just be aware they may be a bit stubborn to settle down and conform. I have that sheet and used a few markings on an non "LN" subject, and the decals were very stubborn. Just a head's up ;-)

Hi Ken, hmmm,...thanks for the heads-up. That's not the first time I've heard that so I'm a bit concerned over how these decals will behave. I ordered a set of the second edition which were available on the website but obviously Danny had n't updated the site in a while as he discovered he had no stock and sent me a first edition set instead hoping that it would be ok. Time will tell :unsure: Ken, how did you manage to get the decals to play ball in the end? Any special techniques?

Awesome project so far, Guy! I'm glad to see another 1/32 "quick build" from you on ARC

If no one's mentioned it yet, here are a couple decal paper sources that have worked well (for me) in the past:

BMF/ experts choice:http://www.policecarmodels.com/blankdecalfilm.htmlhttp://www.policecarmodels.com/blankdecalfilm.html

Micromark:

http://www.micromark...ecal-paper.html

I've also used the Testor's sheets with good results, although they are the smaller size (4"x6"?)

I have a friend wanting to sell me this kit, but I figured it needed so much 'improvement' that I would pass

-Rob

P.S. I know postage US-UK has gotten outrageous, so if you need a 'workaround', gimme a buzz...maybe I can help.

Hey Rob, long time no see! Great to see you around bro, how've you been?

Glad you're liking things so far. I'll try to keep it up but no promises... :coolio:

Thanks for the links on the decal paper I'll look into it some more. If I can get the aftermarket set to work then all I should need is a more modern squadron badge for the intake side and perhaps a couple for the FOD guards. Even I should be able to pull that off.... :blink:

Hey, you should help your buddy out and take that kit off his hands. You know you wanna build the Splinter Aggressor to go with your Hornet..... ;)

TBH, although I'm fiddling around with details on this kit I'm kinda gilding the lily a bit. The model builds up into a lovely Eagle straight from the box and if you're going with an in-flight pose, there is a neat jockey to drop straight into the tub.

Treat yourself, you'll be glad you did. :D

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Hi Anders, glad you got here, good to see you. I hope you enjoy the build as it goes along too. Anything new in your neck of the woods?

Well, not much aircraft related happening at my bench for the moment. Last year and up until now has been focused on AFVs but that big Tamiya P-51 do look tempting in the box... ;)

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