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OK, so I bought a Neo a while back. No matter what I do, how thin I make the paint, what pressure I spray at, the brush *always* sprays good to start with, then gradually tapers off to nothing (if I keep the trigger in the same position). I can't even make a line 6 inches long without it clogging up on me. I just tried to shoot some black Vallejo Model Color, thinned 50/50 with water (and I've tried with Future and Windex, too), shot at 20 PSI, and it stopped on me. Same thing with Tamiya white cut with Tamiya thinner the other night.

Usually, I can get it to go again, briefly (for 3 or 4 seconds) by pulling the trigger all the way back onto a paper towel or something, but I can't imagine 3 or 4 seconds is a standard length of time before tip-dry (nor do I see anything dry on the tip, anyway), or else we wouldn't use these damned things in our hobby. In any case, I've given it a thorough cleaning, and got the same results.

I don't have leaks in my air system, the hose holds pressure long after the compressor has been shut off.

I'm at a loss other than to think that it's something physically wrong with the brush could it be a bent tip? I can't see anything with my Mk I eyeball, but I know that doesn't mean a lot with something so tiny.

Edited by Jeff Ital
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See if it will consistently spray just water. If it does, it seems to me to be a problem with the thinning of the paint, although 50/50 should be thin enough unless your paint has dried out a bit and is thus very thick. If it sprays water it is probably clean, If it doesn't, it is most likely clogged somewhere.

Is the needle chucking nut tight? See if the tip is moving back and forth when you move the trigger.

Let us know what fixes the problem.

Bob

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See if it will consistently spray just water. If it does, it seems to me to be a problem with the thinning of the paint, although 50/50 should be thin enough unless your paint has dried out a bit and is thus very thick. If it sprays water it is probably clean, If it doesn't, it is most likely clogged somewhere.

Is the needle chucking nut tight? See if the tip is moving back and forth when you move the trigger.

Let us know what fixes the problem.

Bob

Oh, it'll shoot a lovely stream of water.

Even Vallejo's model air will do it, even if I thin it. Needle moves fine, too.

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Have you tried raising your PSI?

Steven L :unsure:/>/>

Yep, 10 all the way up to 35 or so.

I was just playing with it again trying Vallejo Model Air medium green on a piece of paper. no love. The lines just taper off, and sometimes come and go, inconsistent flow.

However, I did wind up with bubbles in my color cup. I wasn't able to reproduce it with soap/water. I've got the nozzle cap sealed with teflon tape, so I don't know where it could be coming from.

Edited by Jeff Ital
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I've had similar experiences using Vallejo. Since I've started adding Tamiya acrylic retarder, things go a lot better. I won't say I don't have any more issues, but it's very manageable. As has been mentioned, turning up the pressure somewhat might also help. Also, I only use Vallejo airbrush thinner or cleaner to thin the paint. I've used water and future, but that caused problems.

Something else I've been doing is straining the paint. I dug into SWMBO's part of the dressing, and sneaked one of her pairs of nylons back to cave. I use it in combination with a very small funnel. I can't really say I discovered serious lumps in the paint that way, but since I'm using this method, again, I'm experiencing fewer problems.

I hope some of this, in combination with what other people have told you, will solve your problem. I know I've more than once been ready to chuck the whole acrylic thing in the garbage can, but I'm glad I didn't. If everything goes as it should, the Vallejo paints give a really nice finish.

Edit: I missed your last post. I also had a similar problem.I use a H&S infinity, and tamiya thinner wreaks havok on the O-rings in the nozzle of the airbrush. Only thing I can do is let them de-gas. And it causes the same slight bubbles in the paint cup. I don't know if your Iwata has teflon seals and O-rings, but if not, that could also be a cause of the problem.

Edited by huntermountain
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I've had similar experiences using Vallejo. Since I've started adding Tamiya acrylic retarder, things go a lot better. I won't say I don't have any more issues, but it's very manageable. As has been mentioned, turning up the pressure somewhat might also help. Also, I only use Vallejo airbrush thinner or cleaner to thin the paint. I've used water and future, but that caused problems.

Something else I've been doing is straining the paint. I dug into SWMBO's part of the dressing, and sneaked one of her pairs of nylons back to cave. I use it in combination with a very small funnel. I can't really say I discovered serious lumps in the paint that way, but since I'm using this method, again, I'm experiencing fewer problems.

I hope some of this, in combination with what other people have told you, will solve your problem. I know I've more than once been ready to chuck the whole acrylic thing in the garbage can, but I'm glad I didn't. If everything goes as it should, the Vallejo paints give a really nice finish.

I dunno. Perhaps I'll just go back to my Paasche VL. I got this one because I wanted a gravity feed brush. I never had any issues with the Paasche and any of the paints/thinners I use, other than the funky angle of the paint cup, which is irritating. Not sure that it's worth the headache to keep fiddling with this one.

Edited by Jeff Ital
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I have a HP-BC2 that is about 30 years old with the original needle. I spray all the same paints and mediums you do without issues at all different pressures and viscosities.

The only time I've ever had any trouble similar to what you describe is if the nozzle cap gets clogged (very unusual). I'm not familiar with the Neo, but if it has a separate needle cap and nozzle cap, remove both and check for buildup. If there is buildup around the nozzle or inside the cap, try spraying without the needle cap.

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The opening for air around the Neo CN nozzle is very narrow. There is a picture on this page. It puts out just a breath of air. If the nozzle has any flare at all it will restrict it even further. You might want to have a look at yours with a magnifier.

I would contact Iwata. They say they will stand behind the Neo, and I've found that to be true.

Don

Edited by Don Wheeler
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Thing is that the paint dries faster on the needle when using acrylics like Vallejo.

I use the Vallejo Airs and have no problem at all.

Practice is also a key.

But don't have any problems with Tamiya paints.

As also said Luiqitex retarder is made to slow down the drying on the needle.

Pressuring up?

No way.

That's not the answer.

I only airbrush with low pressure.

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Here's another thing: I hoooked my Paasche air hose and AB back up yesterday. For any given pressure set on my regulator, the air coming out of the Paasche feels like the metaphorical fire hose, to the Iwata's garden hose. I don't know if it's a function of the hose or the brush, just seems strange, as 30PSI would feel like 30PSI, regardless of the brush. The system is air leak-free.

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What about their 'airbrush medium'? Does that contain slow-dri, too? Description says: "The proper blend of binder and flow agents that improve airbrush performance"

Just wondering if it could be an all-in-one solution, thinner and retarder.

http://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Acrylic-Airbrush-Medium-oz/dp/B001US2NQA/ref=pd_luc_sim_02_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You can try sending Jeff at Grex Airbrush an e-mail (info@grexusa.com) and ask what type of retarder he uses in his demo brushes (sorry I don't recall), he will have 3-4 airbrushes set up for the entire day, and never cleans them, he'll just add more paint and a few drops of retarder.

Curt

Edited by Netz
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You can try sending Jeff at Grex Airbrush an e-mail (info@grexusa.com) and ask what type of retarder he uses in his demo brushes (sorry I don't recall), he will have 3-4 airbrushes set up for the entire day, and never cleans them, he'll just add more paint and a few drops of retarder.

Curt

Why should you clean your airbrushes when using it even the whole day?

As mentioned Liquitex gives good results.

But using acrylics and specialy white it dries faster on the tip so you must spray faster.

Edited by B_Realistic
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Here's another thing: I hoooked my Paasche air hose and AB back up yesterday. For any given pressure set on my regulator, the air coming out of the Paasche feels like the metaphorical fire hose, to the Iwata's garden hose. I don't know if it's a function of the hose or the brush, just seems strange, as 30PSI would feel like 30PSI, regardless of the brush. The system is air leak-free.

Any ideas on this? I wonder if this is my whole problem. I've been happily spraying along with my Paasche VL, but like I said, the air pressure seems much higher coming out of the nozzle.

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Paint consist lacquer to keep the paint from falling apart (and blocks the stream of your airbrush), the fillers and pigments will sink to the bottom of your airbrush cup if you thin your paint to much...Problem gets worse with matt paint...(more fillers etc) Try a bit less paint thinner!

If your airbrush have a good constant stream with water and thinner (you dont have a bent tip, then the air will flow back to your cup...and your paint will be on the floor, your desk...clothes!)

Try this before you do anything to your costly airbrush, needle or tip

Hope this helps

Edited by tom-navy-cat
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Here's another thing: I hoooked my Paasche air hose and AB back up yesterday. For any given pressure set on my regulator, the air coming out of the Paasche feels like the metaphorical fire hose, to the Iwata's garden hose. I don't know if it's a function of the hose or the brush, just seems strange, as 30PSI would feel like 30PSI, regardless of the brush. The system is air leak-free.

The fact that the air coming out of the Iwata is much less than the Paasche indicates a blockage or leak somewhere. One thing that occurred to me is this...does the trigger spring up and down the way it should? If it doesn't the air valve assembly may need some cleaning and at least some lubrication. Check that it is tightened up as well. Also, is the needle packing nut at the rear of the A/B tightened? That can sometimes loosen up.

Can you hear any air leaking out when the hose is connected and pressurized and just sitting there without depressing the trigger?

I do not thin k the problem is the hose since the Paasche works okay with it.

I know that you said it has been cleaned and does spray water but I would take all three of the tip pieces out and soak them in lacquer thinner just to be sure. And I would not use the Teflon tape. Go to a Dollar store and look in the hair care section for wax. For a dollar you will get three lifetimes worth of beeswax.

Bob

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So, i got it under a magnifier, and the tip is off center, and is dragging along the nozzle in some cases. Further, it wiggles when I pull the trigger back and/or push it forward. A gentleman at Iwata said that the needle being off center is not an issue, since the needle is merely a means to allow the paint to flow out of the nozzle. Is this true? I was under the impression that paint flows off the end of the needle, otherwise, why would tip-dry matter?

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After having read this thread, I examined the needle on my H&S infinity, and found a slight burr at the tip. I used a fine sanding stick, and pulled the needle back while rolling it between my fingers. After a few passes, the burr was gone. I then did the same thing using both sides of a polishing stick, to get rid of the scratches. After I checked the needle was polished to my satisfaction, I began a painting session that lasted 2 hours. I don't think I ever had less problems with paint accumulating on the tip of the needle. I was a bit weary about treating the needle this way, but for now, I'm glad I did it.

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