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rotorwash

UH-1B 190th AHC Tribute build 1/35

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Next up: the left engine cowling. As you can see here, I think the PE screens are worth the price of admission. Which leads me to PE in general. How the heck do you modeling gurus glue PE to the model? Every time I put down some CA and place the part, I get extra glue everywhere. Is there some secret ritual you must perform to avoid this or am I just not talented enough?

enginecowling-5_zps856116e4.jpg

Since I am going to button my engine up, I decided to glue the cowling to the fuselage. It ain't exactly a perfect fit, but I started by gluing the rear of the cowling first and getting the best fit I could and then letting that dry.

enginecowling-4_zpsf270d984.jpg

Next I glued the front and used a bit of gentle persuasion to keep the alignment correct.

enginecowling-3_zps301bb005.jpg

Finally I checked the fit and realized that the cowling is a bit too wide so I sanded it down till the fuselage halves met without a big gap. It's not totally critical that the fit be perfect as it's a bit dodgy on the real deal a lot of time. Anyway, Here are before and after pics.

enginecowling-2_zpse5658351.jpg

enginecowling-1_zps732c2e71.jpg

More coming soon.

Ray

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Looking good Ray.

Which leads me to PE in general. How the heck do you modeling gurus glue PE to the model? Every time I put down some CA and place the part, I get extra glue everywhere. Is there some secret ritual you must perform to avoid this or am I just not talented enough?

How are you laying the glue down? I have been using the Gunze Sangyo Mr. Glue Applicators link and Gorilla glue link but I have also used Gator Grip link with either their applicator or number 11 blade.

You could also use the end of wire or toothpick.

HTH

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Looking good Ray.

How are you laying the glue down? I have been using the Gunze Sangyo Mr. Glue Applicators link and Gorilla glue link but I have also used Gator Grip link with either their applicator or number 11 blade.

You could also use the end of wire or toothpick.

HTH

Thanks for the ideas. I have some of the Gator Grip. Maybe I'll try that as it's water based and I can just wipe the excess away.

Ray

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H*() No! That's Oliver's universe. I'm building her sitting in a revetment just after a mission. How about you, open engine on your bird?

Ray

Hell no!! after seeing Oliver´s T-53 no way, my plan was to build it with the engine bay open, but no, it requires a lot of work, sadly i cannot do what Oliver did in his turbine, BTW, Oliver, you should cast your turbine, please!!

Ray, your Bravo its coming along nicely, for the engine cowling grilles i glue them with CA using stretched sprue gluing them from the inside.

Keep it on!!!

Rod.

Edited by salvador001

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Time for an update. First, the back cabin wall. While i like to think I have a pretty good grasp on Huey anatomy, I am always finding new things. Case in point, it turns out that the fabric cover over the transmission access panel goes all the way to the floor as you can see on this old girl at the Huntsville Veterans Museum.

HuntvilleUH-1Mcabin_zps23b213dc.jpg

Soo, back to the drawing board. This time I made the cover much thinner and also added snaps. I know they are a bit too big, but I think they still look OK. I've also added some of the PE tie down rings to the wall. I have more to do and the pencil lines show where other attachment points go. Sorry for the glare on the lead foil.

cabinbackwall-3_zps61c1eaea.jpg

I also did some work on the roof. You can see the inset commo boxes in this pic along with a light in the lower right corner. There are also two air ducts right beside the commo boxes. I set about adding all these bits to the model. I couldn't inset the boxes like the real aircraft because of the thin ceiling in the kit so I did the best I could with plastic sheeting and tiny bits of styrene rod for knobs. Not even close to accurate, but it gives a sense something is there. The lights are modified from the Cobra Company UH-1D/H upgrade set. The vents are cut pieces of styrene tube. Original kit part for comparison.

UH-1M65-09430cabin9_zps37e23c2a.jpg

roof_zpsaf563a99.jpg

Did a little on the IP. First I added some styrene bits to the back for drilling out wiring holes and then I painted it with Vellejo black gray with just one drop of pure black added. I think it came out pretty well.

iP-2_zpsa3e22f83.jpg

iP-3_zps3026fe9e.jpg

Well I guess it's time to show a bit of my photoetch work in the cockpit. In particular, I wanted to show that if you intend to use the Eduard parts for the nose frame, you will need to add a couple of pieces of styrene to the kit floor at the areas indicated by the red arrows. If you don't, the PE can't be glued to the kit part along that edge without warping.

Cockpit-1_zps0e4d04bf.jpg

Cockpit-3_zpsb718fbc9.jpg

Cockpit-2_zps28094455.jpg

Last for this update, I wanted to talk M-60's. Below are M-60A's from five different kits. From bottom to top: Siminar UH-1B kit, MRC/Academy UH-1C kit, Italeri Modern US Weapons set, Dragon Vietnam weapons set, and Dragon Vietnam Helicopter crew set. To me this is a no brainer, DRAGON MAKES THE BEST PLASTIC 1/35 M-60A's. Of course that's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

M-60compare_zps6fabdf75.jpg

Next up is more PE in the cockpit, pilot seats, and some more roof work.

Ray

Edited by rotorwash

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It is looking great so far Ray. Can't wait to se more progress. I agree on the Dragon weapons too.

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Thanks for the ompliments guys. Mel, I'm glad you like the build. I will be particularly interested to see if it passes the "crewchief test!"

Ray

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for ten years I'm trying to finish my UH-1B seminar,thank you for the shot of the interior roof,now mine is not correct!

imgp5910.jpg

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for ten years I'm trying to finish my UH-1B seminar,thank you for the shot of the interior roof,now mine is not correct!

imgp5910.jpg

Well, looks like you are much farther along than me. What are your plans for blades? Or were yours not destroyed by the rubber ammo belts like mine?

Regading the roof, I think yours looks great. It's not 100% accurate, but neither is mine. Also, some units removed the padding from the roof. Then it would look like this.

HuntvilleUH-1Mcabin1_zpsc2e351cb.jpg

Thanks for stopping by and please post some more pics of your build, or even better, join the Huey fun and start your own build thread. You can never have too many Hueys!

Ray

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thank you for this additional photo! belts of ammunition had eaten the landing pads that were in contact with them.if I have the patience maybe I will realize the ceiling of UH 1C academy ..... in five or six years! :whistle:/>

Edited by fredbird

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thank you for this additional photo! belts of ammunition had eaten the landing pads that were in contact with them.if I have the patience maybe I will realize the ceiling of UH 1C academy ..... in five or six years! :whistle:/>/>/>

Those dang ammo belts always eat something in that kit!

For tonights installment, I rebuilt the cockpit ceiling to more closely resemble the original. The extra light was made using a drop of resin from a cast I made earlier. Looks almost as good as CC ones from a distance. First I sanded all the shallow detail off the kit part. Then I made another commo box and inset it like the other two and did quite a bit of styrene scratchwork around the fuse panels. The flat pentagon-shaped piece will be the base for the Minigun gunsight mount later on. I still have to add a few bits but the structural parts are complete. Anyway, I think it is a vast improvement over the kit part if I do say so myself.

Ray

cockpitroofrebuild_zps2fc08267.jpg

Here's what I was going for:

UH-1M65-09430cockpit12_zpsca884efe.jpg

Edited by rotorwash

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Great job Ray, very impressive. Looks like some of that interior PE would be of use on a D/H. That's good to know for future projects.

Regards,

John

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Great job Ray, very impressive. Looks like some of that interior PE would be of use on a D/H. That's good to know for future projects.

Regards,

John

Thanks for the compliment, Oliver. It means a lot coming from the master.

John,

Glad you like the progress so far. If it turns out half as good as you're late war H model, I'll be exstatic. I agree about the PE beng useful for a D/H model. My only concern would be some of the structural pieces like the nose frame parts, since the Dragon/Panda Huey is actually closer to 1/32 than 1/35.

Ray

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Thanks for the compliment, Oliver. It means a lot coming from the master.

John,

Glad you like the progress so far. If it turns out half as good as you're late war H model, I'll be exstatic. I agree about the PE beng useful for a D/H model. My only concern would be some of the structural pieces like the nose frame parts, since the Dragon/Panda Huey is actually closer to 1/32 than 1/35.

Ray

Not to go OT but I thought it was the old Revel kit that was 1/32? The Dragon kit has enough issues, I thought one of it's few positive attributes was that it was dimensionally correct!

With regard to quality, I think you've got me beat so far. I wish I had the benefit of seeing all these great builds before I started that end-of-war Huey. You get so many good ideas from seeing other's work.

Looking forward to your next post.

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Not to go OT but I thought it was the old Revel kit that was 1/32? The Dragon kit has enough issues, I thought one of it's few positive attributes was that it was dimensionally correct!

With regard to quality, I think you've got me beat so far. I wish I had the benefit of seeing all these great builds before I started that end-of-war Huey. You get so many good ideas from seeing other's work.

Looking forward to your next post.

Maybe you are right about that. I'll have to pull out a ruler and check. I have always had a sense it was a bit too big for 1/35 scale, but perhaps that's just those dang golf balls that are supposed to be rivets!

Ray

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Heya Ray,

The Huey is coming along very well. I agree that sometimes the way the kits are made, certain details have to be impressions instead of scaled versions. Love the scratch work.

As far as vent PE goes and superglue goes, I mess that one up a lot too. My 'quick fix' is to lightly scrape an xacto blade along the PE part, holding it perpendicular to the surface.

Lookin forward to more!

Take care,

Austin

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Wow Ray! Playing catch up here and it looks awesome!

Brock

Brock,

Good to have you back, man! Thanks. You've reminded me I better get my butt in gear and post an update!

Ray

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Hello Ray,

Any news on this excellent work?

I'm learning a lot here!

[] s :D/>/>

Alexandre,

Well now ghat you mention it, I should have an update very shortly. I sorta hit a modeling funk and was dreading all the itsy bitsy PE work, but I'm getting back in the groove I think. Thanks for the encouragement.

Ray

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Brock,

Good to have you back, man! Thanks. You've reminded me I better get my butt in gear and post an update!

Ray

Ray,

Get cracking Mister. We want to see update.

Oliver

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