rotorwash Posted April 2, 2014 Author Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) Well it's been a year since I updated this thread. I guess it's time to get back on this build. For the next installment: Main Rotor Blades. Just an up front disclaimer- there are NO correct UH-1B blades in 1/35 either in kit form or aftermarket. Soooo, that leaves making your own or modifying an existing kit part. After a lot of thinking, measuring, fiddling and pawing through kits, here's what I did. I ended up using the rotorhead from the Siminar UH-1B kit (it looks pretty darn accurate to me) and modified blades from the Dragon UH-1D "HEER" kit (thanks Oliver!). I shortened the Dragon blades to a scale 44 ft from a scale 48 ft, carved off some of the inaccurate rotorhead details, sanded down the blade to something closer to scale thickness (they are still too thick though), added trim tabs made from metal scalpel blade packages, and finally recreated some of the blade details to more accurately reflect the real thing. Here are some pics of the process. Ray Original UH-1D Dragon blade vs. Siminar "UH-1B" blade. Siminar blades have a chord of 25 scale inches (2 scale inches too narrow for a UH-1C and 4 scale inches to wide for a UH-1B). Close up comparison of the modified blade and a original (from a UH-1N kit) showing the removed rotorhead details. Original UH-1D blade length and modified blade for UH-1B. You can see that these already have the rotorhead detail removed: Added detail from sheet styrene to the blades to more closely resemble the real thing. Siminar UH-1B rotorhead added to the dragon blades: Completed rotorhead with some scratchbuilt bits: Here is the real deal for comparison: Foil trim tabs: Comparison of the completed kitbashed UH-1B rotor and the orginal Siminar rotor (rotorhead on the Siminar kit id from the CC UH-1B set): Edited April 2, 2014 by rotorwash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Loach Driver Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Nice work, Ray. Only a real Huey expert would go to those lengths to get things accurate. LD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Well, this build is alive, oh yeah baby!! Ray, those blades and head looks beautiful, keep it on with that amazing work. Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Rod and LD, Thanks for the compliments. I'm not in Oliver's league but I do strive for accuracy. Small update with the finished instrument panel. I wired the panel with colored wires I got from the back of a old defunct laptop screen. It's not technically accurate as the wiring on the real thing is mostly white, but I really liked the variety. The instrument face is from an Eduard set and the awesome decals are fro Joseph Osborn at Fireball. They really make the instrument panel to my eye (thanks Joseph!). My painting leaves a bit to be desired, but from a few inches it all looks good. Next up are the pilot seats. Ray First, the wires from the back of the laptop screen: Back of the wired IP with temporary tape holding it all together: Finished IP with Fireball decals added. I attached the PE with Future to give the dial faces a gloss shine like the real thing. My painting skills need some work though. Anyone have a surefire way to paint the instrument bezels?: Finally, here's what I was going for. Not perfect but it looks the part from 6 inches away.: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
UH-1Mad Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Looks Good. Which fireball set has the IP decals? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Looks Good. Which fireball set has the IP decals? Cheers Thanks. It was a custom set, but I assume Joseph could do them for anyone. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 (edited) Ray, that IP is looking good, i had the same problem as you painting the bezels, what i do is first i paint the whole IP, in this case Dark Gull Gray, then i paint the bezels with a very fine brush, then i cover the excedent paint with very thinned Dark Gull Gray using a fine brush, creating the same effect as making a wash in panel lines. For the glass effect in the instruments,i put a drop of gloss clear in each of them with a fine brush. This is my UH-1M IP in 1/35. Rod. Edited April 3, 2014 by salvador001 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Rod, Oh man, that looks awesome! I tried essentially what you are saying but my hands must not be as steady as yours. Maybe I'll give it another go. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eastern Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Hi Ray, Nice progress on the Huey. You seemed to do a lot of recearch. Eager to see more in-progress pics. It always exciting and inspiring watching a Huey built. Cheers and happy modeling! Alexander Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SteveV22FE Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Hey Ray Looking really good!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Hi Ray Heres what I used for the IP, it works everyime. For the square dials I tape around them. I do not use any brushes on my IP work, all of it is airbrushed. It takes a little longer but it does the trick. Once that done you can do wash around the dials and finish by a light drybrushing to make all the edges of the dials pop out a bit. Lion Roar makes the metal template and the second one in plastic can be bought in any staples stores Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Alexander, Steve and Oliver, Thanks for the comments. Oliver, I may try your technique next time. Not sure any effort of mine could match your precision,but I guess I can try. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tank Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) Eduard also make a number of metal stencils, including squares. The opposite is paint everything black for the dials, then punch out tape to mask it. UMM-USA makes a number of punches that are wallet friendly. Like the rotor, you should have someone cast them in resin. Easier for our your other builds. Edited April 8, 2014 by Tank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Eduard also make a number of metal stencils, including squares. The opposite is paint everything black for the dials, then punch out tape to mask it. UMM-USA makes a number of punches that are wallet friendly. Like the rotor, you should have someone cast them in resin. Easier for our your other builds. Unfortunately, as has been shown in the past, resin Huey rotors have a bad habit of warping. I am more than happy to let someone cast them though, if they have an idea about how to fix that. I have heard of adding wire to the resin, but I'm not really qualified to say if that would work. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tank Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Unfortunately, as has been shown in the past, resin Huey rotors have a bad habit of warping. I am more than happy to let someone cast them though, if they have an idea about how to fix that. I have heard of adding wire to the resin, but I'm not really qualified to say if that would work. Ray I recall that discussion, what about just the rotor head area and then attaching the plastic blades? One could pin the plastic blade and then address the seam. Just spit-balling some ideas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 I recall that discussion, what about just the rotor head area and then attaching the plastic blades? One could pin the plastic blade and then address the seam. Just spit-balling some ideas. The Cobra company set has the same rotorhead in resin in the UH-1B conversion set. I just chose to use the plastic version from the Siminar kit. Chris also inlcudes the blade counterweights which i have not added yet. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crushkill Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Lurking the archives today for research, you ever finish this build? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Â 11 hours ago, crushkill said: Lurking the archives today for research, you ever finish this build? Nope, it's one of the many kits i have started and reached "that point" where I dtalled. Â It is still inj the works though. Â Seeing it makes me want to get back to work on her. Â Â Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crushkill Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 1 hour ago, rotorwash said:  Nope, it's one of the many kits i have started and reached "that point" where I dtalled.  It is still inj the works though.  Seeing it makes me want to get back to work on her.   Ray Let's get her done!  I'm starting a 190th bird also, and I'd love to see some of your resources, I've saved almost every photo from the 190th website Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Just now, crushkill said: Let's get her done!  I'm starting a 190th bird also, and I'd love to see some of your resources, I've saved almost every photo from the 190th website I actually scanned many of those form 190th vets, including my dad!   Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 yeah Ray Back at it Mister....lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Hey, please get back and finish this one, its been a while since you started it. Come on, the Huey deserves it LOL. Â Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieUH-1H Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 1 hour ago, salvador001 said: Hey, please get back and finish this one, its been a while since you started it. Come on, the Huey deserves it LOL. Â Rod. Rod show us your UH-1M! build please! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Yes Charlie, of course, but i have only started the rotors. Ray was very kind with me and sent me the 1/35 UH-1C for free, i am very thankful with him. I might start it after my UH-60 build, maybe in september. Ill post the rotor photos later. Â Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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