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1/10 Ascent Stage LM-5 Eagle


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Both of you guys, spaceman and crackerjazz, you're both master modellers! ... and you're developing such elegant solutions. It's such a pleasure to watch your progress!

Crackerjazz ... this drogue, from a little side view drawing, is re-frikkin-markable!

I sure hope everyone here on ARC is watching this effort of yours ... The 3D work and then the build, wow ... the bar is being set quite high with this!

Thanx you two!

Pete

Thanx Pete for all your kind and encouraging compliments. :worship:

The work and skill you and the other guys have demonstrated on your builds have been giving new inspiration to me always again. n060.gif

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Edited by spaceman
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Hi Pete, really glad you like it so far, thanks! :) My problem right now are the cones -- I couldn't make them as perfect as the one you made for your CSM. I did a first try using 0.4mm styrene. It's awful and not worthy of posting but I'll keep trying. I might use the "softer" 0.25mm sheet.

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Hi ApolloMan, that would be an awesome display and it crossed my mind too, but I'm afraid don't have the skills to build the huge leg structures. So I decided long ago to build just the ascent stage displayed in-flight :(

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Mike, thanks! I've been trying to construct the cone -- I don't know how Pete does it, heheh, I've given up. The styrene keeps springing back to it's non-cone shape. And I don't know what to do with the ridge on the joint. I've tried both overlapping joints and just gluing the edges together -- no dice. So I just might resort to having it printed. I uploaded the STL file to Shapeways to check the price -- $67 in FUD -- I'm still looking around.

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Re-attempting to make the cone. The drogue is thick so I'll use two cones with a large gap in between.

This cone will be the side visible from outside.

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Flattened the cone shape.

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Stuck the pattern onto styrene. I used 0.25mm styrene this time to make it easier to form.

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Peeled off the paper pattern.

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1mm overlap tab to make it easier to glue the edges together.

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You can see that the shape is not perfect. It doesn't lie flat on the surface.

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But if you press down on it it assumes a perfect cone shape.

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I really need the shape to be right or the gap won't look right. I'll probably try Manfred's method of heating it

up with a heat gun. But I don't have one so I'll break out the wife's hairdryer and see if that works.

Edited by crackerjazz
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Caution, schlaumeier.gif

by using this thin Styrene you must however be careful and heat gently and evenly all around. It is important that the heated Styrene must cool in the desired shape in order to retain this shape. :thumbsup:

Or you can dive the cone in a hot water bath, press down carefully, and then pour the water but still pressing down the cone until cooling. :coolio:

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Edited by spaceman
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Hi Manfred -- tried the methods on some test cones. With the blowdryer the styrene still kept springing back to its original shape

:( So I tried dunking it into boiling water while pressing down and it buckled out of shape. So I thought I'd go another route.

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I don't know if the real drogue is cast in one piece or consists of an inner and outer cone but the walls are thick. I had no

choice but to make two cones. Then it dawned on me. I needed something to separate the two cones and if I made it stiff

enough the cones would follow the shape.

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So I started making a separator/stiffener ring.

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I couldn't find my CF card so I had to make do with the mobile phone camera. I took this shot and the previous one with

a "vintage" setting by mistake. Looks so "'70s", doesn't it?

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Then I applied a layer of Apoxie Sculpt, put a drinking glass on top of it to make sure the ring stays flat and let it cure

overnight. It turned out to be a very nice solid ring.

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Edited by crackerjazz
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I'm sorry I wasn't clear. I ment, instead of one piece of 360* part of styrene sheet for your cone with one joining point; how about two smaller pieces of 180* with two joints? Btw, another idea comes to mind...funnels. I have seen really small funnels in different sizes and I'm sure they will work well with what you are trying to achieve and best thing...no seam. I have seen them at natural food stores.

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Get ready for a bunch of shots. Just wanted to document and share my progress. Someday when I look back at this it'll bring good

memories just looking at the progress shots. And I'll get to laugh about what I've spent so much effort into. :)

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Edited by crackerjazz
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Wow, and this needle has cut the 0.75mm styrene? :woot.gif: Good to know. :coolio:

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How often do you have circled the diameter, certainly not just once, right? undecided.gif

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Edited by spaceman
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Hi Aussie Pete!

Chipping away...

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Prepared the carapace stiffeners...

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I used Bondo for the seams.

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The seam looks pretty smooth now with the Bondo all sanded but I positioned one of the stiffeners over it anyway. I knew styrene

glue wouldn't work on the area so I tried some CA glue, hoping it would bond to the Bondo. And bond to the Bondo it did :)

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She's taking shape.

Edited by crackerjazz
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Beautiful and very precise work. I'm impressed that your handmade parts look as clean and precise as your 3d models. If it weren't for seeing pics of them being made and ultra-smooth surfaces I'd think they were printed parts. Keep it up!

Bill

Edited by niart17
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Hi Bill, Mike, thanks! :) I really appreciate the encouragement!

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The boltheads weren't looking right so I made some properly shaped conehead bolts. I have no idea how these are attached on the

real thing with no hexagonal heads to work on.

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Edited by crackerjazz
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