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1/35 AFV M1130 TACP Stryker.


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Hello all,

Well let me first start off by saying I am mainly an aircraft and helicopter builder so armor is not my strong point. With that said here are my latest builds. The TACP Stryker is for a local museum that contacted me and the ICV Stryker is for me. Both builds will have Eduards PE utilized and the 72nd project will have some resin. So without further ramblings here is the progress so far.

1/35 TACP Stryker. Soldered together the Eduards suspension pieces and installed them, installed the lower forward armor plates, and started work on the forward and rear differentials.

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1/72 ICV Stryker. Added perforated suspension covers and pinner compartment hinge. Soldered together the fuel can racks, along with their associated side lights. Soldered together the rear troop access door slat armor brackets, plates, and bracing.

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I am presently working on the left side armor plate brackets for 72nd kit and finishing up the clean up of the suspension components on the 35th kit. I will try and get some more photos posted by next weekend as the work progresses. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ME YOUR FEEDBACK, COMMENTS, CORRECTIONS , AND CONCERNS. Again armor is not my strong point so any help will be much appreciated. Thanks for looking and have a great day.

Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well here is a small update. Work, family, and me working on my degree's have left me little time this week to work on my Stykers. I did manage to get some paint laid down on the under side of the 1/35 kit. I have yet to add the filter, wash, and mud so it looks a little "bright" to me, what do you all think, any recommendations? I think that the filter and wash will tone down the color and add some depth.

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Now for the 1/72 kit. Work continues applying PE to the left side and rear troop door. All of the left side molded on detail has been removed and holes filled. The upper armor mounting bracket was finished and installed along with some of the slat armor bracing plates. A grab handle and door latch handle were added to the rear troop door.

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I have started work on the lower armor mounting bracket and the assembly, painting, and weathering of the wheels and tires for the 72nd kit. I am still working on the lower suspension for the 35th kit. I should have this all done and primed by this weekend. I will try and post some more pictures this weekend, time permitting. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ME YOUR FEEDBACK, COMMENTS, CORRECTIONS , AND CONCERNS. Again armor is not my strong point so any help will be much appreciated. Thanks for looking and have a great day.

Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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Looking excellent so far. PE soldering looks like a great way of building something that will last, I should give it a try sometime.

Don't worry for the colour yet, if you weather it with dust etc.. at the end it will look the part. My experience with armor is that weathering is best kept until the end and your friends are pastel for the dust and artists' oil paint for the oil streaks etc...

A useful thing too is the stuff construction people use to fill small holes in walls (don't know the English word :(). It makes perfect mud when applied lightly on the wheels and chassis.

This is an old build but it may be useful for the purpose:

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Good luck,

Arnaud

Edited by arnobiz
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Morning to all. Let me thank you all for the comments and guidance in these builds. Now I need y'all (as we say here in Texas) to give me some honest feedback. I was able to get the tires/wheels together and weathered on the 1/72 Stryker. This is where I need your feedback, do you think the weathering is just right, not enough, or to much. The 72nd build is going to portray an in theater (Iraq) vehicle during the summer months (which is very dry, and HOT). So give me what you got, thanks in advance.

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Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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OK, take two. Thank you all for the feedback and comments. After looking at several pictures of Strykers in the time frame I am depicting, and hearing from a couple of armor guys, I decided I needed to redo the weathering. So here we go, what do y'all think? Do we have a winner?

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Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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OK, take two. Thank you all for the feedback and comments. After looking at several pictures of Strykers in the time frame I am depicting, and hearing from a couple of armor guys, I decided I needed to redo the weathering. So here we go, what do y'all think? Do we have a winner?

Dave Fassett

Dave,

Looks good to my eye, I don't think in theater weathering can be overdone. They can be pretty clean to very dirty very fast. I've seen how the front wheels are way cleaner than the rear ones I guess as the dust gets kicked up it all collects at the back of the vehicle.

:cheers:/>

Emil

Edited by Emvar
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Thank you Emil. Ok,its been a couple of weeks since my last update, so I figured I would post some more progress. Work, family, and working on my duel degrees have left me with little time the last couple of weeks, but I did manage to get some building in. I was able to finish, paint, and weather the suspension area of the TACP Stryker. To me the color looks a lot better after the washes where applied (pictured), and darkened up some when I coated it with Future (not pictured). The pinner compartment in the third photo in just set in place for now, I will attach it after the upper and lower hulls are glued together. I was also able to get the tires weathered and ready for the wheel, which is next on my agenda. As for the 72nd Stryker, I started removing the detail on the right side and adding non-skid to the upper surface. My goal this week and over spring break is to catch up on the small Strker and start on the top side of the 35th Stryker. More pictures to come in the next week or so. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ME YOUR FEEDBACK, COMMENTS, CORRECTIONS , AND CONCERNS. Again armor is not my strong point so any help will be much appreciated. Thanks for looking and have a great day.

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Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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If armor is not your strong point, I'd love to see what is! I think it looks great Dave. The weathering is quite good, and the extra detail you have added by including the PE is outstanding! Great job so far. I've got two 1/35 Strykers to do eventually, so I'm taking notes.

Aaron

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah Dave what he said /\.

Armour is a nice diversion, I have built several when I was in a slump building aircraft.

The Anti slip is cool, I know some who use the Tremclad Textured stuff out of a rattle can too. Just Mask the areas you don't want painted.

:cheers:

Emil

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Not sure if the Strykers in Iraq were significantly different than the ones in Afghanistan, but based on what I saw the colors look off. The body of the Strykers really are a deep forest green, much darker than what is above.

Also, not sure if it is the color in the pictures or the wheels themselves, but the weathering has a greenish tint on the treads.

It also depends on if you are looking for a dry season or a wet season vehicle--the mud vs dust layers are significantly different. Either way, the treads should be basically sand color, the tire sidewalls should be blacker but still dusty.

Edited by MarkW
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all for the outstanding feedback. Well after many weeks I AM BACK [H]. For the last three years model building has been taking a back seat accept on school breaks and holidays. This was a must when you are a full-time student, father, husband, and employee. Well no more, on Friday, 10 May, I graduated with dual degrees. So with this milestone behind me, my time is now wide open for building. I hope to post some photos here within the week. Again thank you all for the outstanding feedback.

Not sure if the Strykers in Iraq were significantly different than the ones in Afghanistan, but based on what I saw the colors look off. The body of the Strykers really are a deep forest green, much darker than what is above.

Yeah the color in those photos was really light. Those where taken before I applied a darker overall wash and a coat of future. It now has a much darker and full look. It may not be dead on match but it is closer and will work for this scale.

Also, not sure if it is the color in the pictures or the wheels themselves, but the weathering has a greenish tint on the treads.

Yeah its the lighting when I took the photo that gives the tires that greenish tint. If you look at them in any other light they are fine.

Dave Fassett

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Alright update time. I will start off with the 72nd Stryker first. Non-skid is finished, PE antenna bases in place, drivers hatch and winch cover is finished. The drivers hatch only lacks weathering and a wash, I still also have to install the reflective viewing ports.

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Next up 35th build. Started applying non-skid surface (by hand), rebuilt tool rack and HF coupler rack, and last but not least gave the underside a coat of future to darken things up a little.

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Thanks you all for looking and PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ME YOUR FEEDBACK, COMMENTS, CORRECTIONS , AND CONCERNS.

Dave Fassett

Edited by Bulldog 09
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Thank you Mike. The method I use is pretty simple. I take a short stiff bristle brush (3/16" - 1/8" in bristle length) and Mr. Surfacer. I use Mr. Surfacer 500 for 1/48 scale and up and Mr. Surfacer 1000 for 1/72 scale and below. To apply simply dip the brush in the Mr. Surfacer and dab it onto the area to be treated, as it dries the brush will pull it up giving you the rough texture. Allow it to dry for a day, then paint and weather. Please let me know if you have any other questions and I hope this helps.

Dave Fassett

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  • 2 weeks later...
[...]

A useful thing too is the stuff construction people use to fill small holes in walls (don't know the English word :(/>/>/>). It makes perfect mud when applied lightly on the wheels and chassis. [...]

Spackle. Or spackling paste.

And that's a very good suggestion.

Edited by Four Corners
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Thank you Mike. The method I use is pretty simple. I take a short stiff bristle brush (3/16" - 1/8" in bristle length) and Mr. Surfacer. I use Mr. Surfacer 500 for 1/48 scale and up and Mr. Surfacer 1000 for 1/72 scale and below. To apply simply dip the brush in the Mr. Surfacer and dab it onto the area to be treated, as it dries the brush will pull it up giving you the rough texture. Allow it to dry for a day, then paint and weather. Please let me know if you have any other questions and I hope this helps.

Dave Fassett

Good idea Dave. I have a Canadian Cougar I am building. Ok I got in a day of building it in the last month, but whose counting. I used rustoleum texture paint, I think it turned out well, but all the masking would take FOREVER on a striker! Maybe I'll try your method on that guy.

Looks great! Happy modelling.

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  • 4 months later...

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