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Yellowing white paint


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Somebody here mentioned before to add one drop of blue to a new tinlet of white paint. Then use a drop of this blueish paint on a new tinlet of white paint, which you are going to paint with.

And don't use enamel clear coats. Use Future instead.

Edited by Lancer512
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All clear coats, and all gloss whites yellow over time from exposure to ultraviolet light. Some acrylics are more resistant (like Future), but they will all do it eventually. The blue tinting works, but eventually the problem will return. The best solution is to limit the exposure to UV.

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There are some other things you can do to help:

  1. Undercoat the white with silver.
  2. Use a flat white for all but the last coat. Flat whites have a higher pigment load and far better hide than glosses. They also don't keep adding clear gloss binder, which is what actually turns yellow.
  3. Don't use a gloss white at all. Use only flat white and overcoat that with Future, which is highly resistant to yellowing.

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There are some other things you can do to help:

  1. Undercoat the white with silver.
  2. Use a flat white for all but the last coat. Flat whites have a higher pigment load and far better hide than glosses. They also don't keep adding clear gloss binder, which is what actually turns yellow.
  3. Don't use a gloss white at all. Use only flat white and overcoat that with Future, which is highly resistant to yellowing.

What he said.

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It has been my experience that white automotive lacquers do not yellow. I have used them on several models and they are fine as long as your final gloss coat does not yellow. The only drawback is the expense, but then, have you ever seen a white car's paint job yellow? :)

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It has been my experience that white automotive lacquers do not yellow. I have used them on several models and they are fine as long as your final gloss coat does not yellow. The only drawback is the expense, but then, have you ever seen a white car's paint job yellow? smile.gif

Yes, I have. Automotive lacquers are, however, formulated to be as resistant to yellowing as possible. For a scale model, they are rather expensive, but you get what you pay for. If going that route, why not use an automotive clear as a final coat?

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