Bad Turbine Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 If I paint my L-1011 with appliance paint will it yellow.Every white paint I have used has yellowed with age. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arnobiz Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Use acrylic. Most enamels will yellow due to solvent issues from what I understand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancer512 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Somebody here mentioned before to add one drop of blue to a new tinlet of white paint. Then use a drop of this blueish paint on a new tinlet of white paint, which you are going to paint with. And don't use enamel clear coats. Use Future instead. Edited February 24, 2013 by Lancer512 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Test your appliance paint 1st on some scrap, It's an epoxy made for metal and might melt your plastic. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bad Turbine Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Thank you guys, that gives me some direction. Double thanks to you Curt, that 1/100 L-10 is hard enough to get without turning one to goo! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 All clear coats, and all gloss whites yellow over time from exposure to ultraviolet light. Some acrylics are more resistant (like Future), but they will all do it eventually. The blue tinting works, but eventually the problem will return. The best solution is to limit the exposure to UV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I think were in need for some reverse psychology here. How about paint it yellow and wait for it to become white! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 There are some other things you can do to help: Undercoat the white with silver. Use a flat white for all but the last coat. Flat whites have a higher pigment load and far better hide than glosses. They also don't keep adding clear gloss binder, which is what actually turns yellow. Don't use a gloss white at all. Use only flat white and overcoat that with Future, which is highly resistant to yellowing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 There are some other things you can do to help: Undercoat the white with silver. Use a flat white for all but the last coat. Flat whites have a higher pigment load and far better hide than glosses. They also don't keep adding clear gloss binder, which is what actually turns yellow. Don't use a gloss white at all. Use only flat white and overcoat that with Future, which is highly resistant to yellowing. What he said. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bad Turbine Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Sounds good, thanks everybody. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 How about just using white lacquer paint? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bad Turbine Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Lacquer does't have the same problems? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Since it's the clear component (binder) of the coating that yellows, lacquers are also vulnerable, although some are more resistant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bad Turbine Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Man you guys are full of info,I never really thought about the contents of paint till I notice all my pretty model were looking like bad teeth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 I'm a retired materials scientist, and I once worked directly in the coatings industry. Hence my "resident paint geek" and sigfile. :coolio:/> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill51sdr Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 It has been my experience that white automotive lacquers do not yellow. I have used them on several models and they are fine as long as your final gloss coat does not yellow. The only drawback is the expense, but then, have you ever seen a white car's paint job yellow? :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 It has been my experience that white automotive lacquers do not yellow. I have used them on several models and they are fine as long as your final gloss coat does not yellow. The only drawback is the expense, but then, have you ever seen a white car's paint job yellow? Yes, I have. Automotive lacquers are, however, formulated to be as resistant to yellowing as possible. For a scale model, they are rather expensive, but you get what you pay for. If going that route, why not use an automotive clear as a final coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill51sdr Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 If going that route, why not use an automotive clear as a final coat? Agreed & in the past I have with nice results. Pricey? Yes but worth it IMHO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 This is excellent info! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flemming Hansen Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hi If you can get it use Tamiya spray TS26 over white Tamiya primer with a gunze gloss Topcoat B-501. That is recommended for racingcars that is bright white - and that will not yellow over time if 15 years is the timescale... Best regards Flemming Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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