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1/32 Trumpeter A-10C Hog- "Putting Lipstick on a Pig of a Kit"


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Yep, it's Avast. I just figured it would get sorted eventually and indeed it has.

I did start my Trump kit, but it was a few years back when I had just gotten back into the hobby. Even just building it pretty much OOB with a resin cockpit I was overwhelmed. I actually gave the kit away to a local buddy of mine, maybe he'll have better luck with it. After watching this build and the extensive work you've done to correct it, I know I could never do it justice anyway :P

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Hi Chuck,

Great to watch your persistence with this build! It's really turning into something special now and I can appreciate just how slow the progress can appear but it all adds up in the end. Thanks heaps for all you mini tutorials along the way especially the ones about tinting windscreens and filling and rescribing seams. Both are techniques I haven't really tried yet so I'm looking forward to giving them a go. This is making me really want to start my A-10. Keep up the great work mate!

Craig

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With this in the back of my mind, Chris Wilson (Zactomodels) was kind enough to email me a few suggestions, one of which I was aware of and another I was not.
:rolleyes:

Sorry to be such a pest. I saw you adjusting those tiny little lines by the canopy and just had to bug you about the bigger one on the fuselage side that caught my eye.

As usual, you're doing a masterful job and treating us to a really entertaining build. Thanks Chuck...

:cheers:

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"What are you thinking about", my wife will often says as I look off into distant space as she tells me another story about one of her friends who I've never met. "Oh not much, I was just thinking about blah, blah, blah", I lie. :whistle: I think she really knows the truth as she squints at my response. She knows I'm a very sick man with a plastic problem- and I'm in full denial! :D

Ha, too funny! I have exactly the same situation... I usually just answer "you don't want to know" and my wife just roles her eyes.

:rolleyes:

Marcel

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Looking fantastic Chuck, love your attention to detail and your scratch building skills !! This is going to look amazing all painted up. Don't know if it was mentioned or not, what markings will the ole girl be finished in ?

Steve

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Thank you Gents!

Don't know if it was mentioned or not, what markings will the ole girl be finished in ?

Steve

Sorry Steve, but it's still a bit of a secret for reasons that will hopefully become clearer in the near future. :rolleyes:

Now a little more progress in this glacial paced build. I fixed those kit vents which are too narrow, poorly molded and they don't fit the fuselage very well at all. Here they are OOB...

Panelline3.jpg

I tried just about everything to get them looking and fitting better, including remolding them, making a thin cover for them out of several different materials, etc., but in the end a simple application of thinned putty seemed to work best. This allowed me to make the vents wider and create a bit of a lip against the fuselage, which is present on the real deal. Here's how they look now, which is not too bad if I do say so myself. Note that the prior rough paint has been removed and the seams at the top have been fixed- or at least I hope they have....

Vents2.jpg

Since I've already detailed the windscreen, I thought I would complete the canopy as well to see just how well the Cutting Edge resin, Eduard PE and decal rivets would look all painted up. Remember, I started out with just this Squadron vacu-formed part a few weeks ago....

Squadroncanopy.jpg

It now looks like this. Excuse the very light pics, but it's hard to show the flat black interior detail against the very light grey of the outside, so I had to goose up the lighting a bit. Everything is just dry fitted and that panel tab at the rear of the canopy should lay flatter and not slant upwards (like the kit parts do)...

Canopy18.jpg

The interior of the canopy used the modified Cutting Edge kit resin for the sidewalls and "T-bar" that attaches to the canopy hinge. Those front yellow canopy lock downs are from the Eduard PE kit, but they are usually in the upward position with the canopy raised. I left them as is, or they would break off and they do add a it of interesting detail. The canopy mirrors are from the kit metal part, but I cut each mirror off individually to avoid the use of the long strip they attach to.

Canopy15.jpg

That rear tab should look a bit more like this when it is finally glued in.

Canopy16.jpg

A closer look at the interior detail. The most forward gizmo behind the yellow handle is a canopy glass breaker and the rear one is a side light. Those decal rivets turned out looking very natural...

Canopy21.jpg

There is an anti-static strip along about 3/4's of the canopy, which is copper colored and quite wide. To create this, I simply painted Alclad Copper to the interior of the canopy, so that it won't rub off like it might on the exterior...

Canopy17.jpg

The other side. I'm really pleased with how clear everything turned out. You may recall from an earlier post how I drilled holes in the canopy hinge assembly so that I can use pins to hold everything together. This allows for a strong assembly without glue, but I can still remove the canopy with almost no hassle.

Canopy20.jpg

From the front. The Cutting Edge hinge assembly is really well made- and accurate. I'm dying to paint that front windscreen, but that will have to wait until I paint the entire fuselage.

Canopy19.jpg

Well that's it for now boys and the next 2 weeks when I'm on my annual summer vacation away from my work bench. I can still respond to any queries you may have, but I won't be able to touch plastic parts for awhile. When I get back, I'll get after the several antenna changes required on the bottom front, along with more rivet details on the gun shroud.

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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Hi Chuck,

the level of detail is stunning.I am always amazed on your new pictures.

Everything seems to be perfect, the lights, the angles...and always the SUBJECT. :woot.gif:

May I ask what is the date when you started modeling?

Regards,Laz

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Hi Chuck,

the level of detail is stunning.I am always amazed on your new pictures.

Everything seems to be perfect, the lights, the angles...and always the SUBJECT. :woot.gif:/>/>/>

May I ask what is the date when you started modeling?

Regards,Laz

Thanks a lot Laz! Although I made a few kits as a kid and a couple of 1/32 fighters about 30 years ago, I've only been modeling seriously for about 6 years. Here was my first submission to ARC in the fall of 2007 when I joined, the 1/32 Revell F-15D made into an "E". It isn't very good and the silvered decals are horrific, but it taught me to use putty, resin after-market parts and an air brush for the first time.

1/32 Revell F-15E

I try to learn new tricks and become a better modeler with each new project, so I always find the hobby interesting. There is always room for improvement!

Edited by chuck540z3
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Chuck, this hog is booming. I like it a lot. I build the family model as a what-if just for fun, but I've got couple off single seat to build and your will sure will be used for reference :D

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Thank you everyone very much! My progress has been super slow and I'm sure boring most of the time, but that's the only way I can model. I want to do the best I can with my current skill set, which sometimes means doing things over and over. This build is far from perfect still, but I think it will turn out looking pretty good when I'm done. Time will tell!

Almost perfect! You're still missing those dents in the nose from the refueling booms. ;)/>/>/>/>

Aaron

Thanks Aaron for the advice. I have been dead set against denting up the front nose area for future model contest reasons, but recently I have finally come around to wanting to do what I want to do because I like it and it's accurate, so I may take you up on your suggestion, no matter the contest consequences! Another medal of whatever color won't change my current style of modeling. My models are usually fairly dirty and well worn looking (see below), which sometimes kills me in the "artistic impression" category of each contest. I will never change what I like in a model build to win another medal, so let's see how things go in the months ahead.

Edited by chuck540z3
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Hi,

Please no dents, just leave the nose as it is. With all the work you have done to change the shape of the nose. . .

Nobody will ever say that your Warthog is inaccurate because is missing the "dents".

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I don't know how much i can say wow. But this build is amazing.

I read in the Airforces monthly that the USAF is having a major cutback. There are rumours to cut the B1 bomber or the A10 fleet.

If they cut the A10 fleet, we are Lucky to have your model. Keep up the work, i am looking forward to see the next build update.

Greetings Rogiér

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OMG! Chuck, the detail on your A-10 cockpit and fuselage is incredible. :jaw-dropping: I don't know if I have the patience. I've been staring at my Tamiya F-14A for I can't remember the better part of a decade and I still am too scared to touch it.

I'm at the crux point of deciding whether to give up the 1/48 models in my stash, sell 'em and move to 1/32 entirely with the exception of the SR-71 and the B-1B. Fewer kits and more potential to work on some detail. I have this thing for Aggressors unfortunately, the simple realization that my hands seem to be unsteady for work on 1/48 scale has pushed me towards 1/32. I presume Trumpeter has a 1/32 Skyhawk so that and Hasegawa's 1/32 F-5E has those covered. The Gen 4 Quartet. F-14, F-15, F-16 and F/A-18 are covered by Tamiya, the Super Hornets are covered by Trumpeter. Who knows, maybe I should just start working on my 1/32 scale F-14A and see how it goes from there.

I swear, I'm going to follow your HOG build and gain what model-making skills that I can glean. I'm sure the skills are transferrable. :)

Edited by The_Animal
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

I haven't done a thing to the Hog in the last 2 weeks due to summer vacation, but I thought I would pass along a tip on how to make your own simple parts that may have broken or you would like to duplicate. I tried to reproduce the large vents on the front fuselage that used to look like this, in order to get rid of the jagged seam lines and improve them:

Panelline9-1.jpg

The products I used to replicate the vents were Tamiya Light Curing Putty and Oyumaru Instant Molding Compound. Here's a pic of what they look like when I replicated the shell belts for my recent Mustang project...

LtPutty1.jpg

I haven't seen the Japanese Oyumaru compound at my local hobby stores, but you can find it all over the 'net if you do a search. Here are a few examples:

Example 1

Example 2

The Oyumaru product is like a soft plastic which becomes very pliable when immersed in boiling water. After letting it sit in the hot water for about a minute, you just push it onto the part (or the part into the compound) to make a direct impression...

Lightputty1.jpg

You let this sit on the part for about 2-3 minutes, then peel it off when it has cooled and hardened. I then filled the new mold with the Tamiya Light Curing Putty in a semi-dark environment, which gives you about 40-60 seconds to play with, then exposed the putty to a strong direct light. After about 1 minute of direct light exposure, the putty becomes very hard, with a slightly oily surface, which makes separating the putty from the compound very easy.

Lightputty2.jpg

You then cut and sand the new part to your desired dimensions and voila! New vents!

Lightputty3.jpg

I made these new vents to experiment with creating thin vent covers out of thin styrene, aluminum can, foil and even heat shrink PVC plastic electrical wrap, where direct exposure to the original plastic parts might harm them. Every experiment crashed and burned for a variety of reasons, however, so I went with just a thin coat of putty as shown above, which improved the vents a lot without any drama (keep it simple, stupid!) For the PVC shrink wrap, I even heated the putty up to about 250 F degrees with a heat gun and the putty remained in tact without melting. It can be a bit brittle, however, so I don't recommend using it for very thin parts like a pitot tube, but for most small parts, you can recreate a very good replica in about 10 minutes. Tiny detail on the parts, however, is usually very good.

One other word about the Tamiya putty. For general putty use, I don't recommend it. The greasy film on the putty after curing should be removed with Tamiya lacquer thinner, but it still remains on the putty to plastic surface, making the bond weak. I've even had the putty fall right off the part! It must have many other uses I'm sure, but I haven't found it yet.

So there you have it. Another useless mini-clinic to fill in time while I get back to some real modeling!

Edited by chuck540z3
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