1/32 Trumpeter A-10C Hog- "Putting Lipstick on a Pig of a Kit"

[chuck540z3]

Great photos of the Maui sunsets, good luck with the surgery.

Needless to say wonderful progress on the Hog, have you received the Northstar Mavericks yet?

Andy

Yes I did- and they are gorgeous! With two of these Mavericks, an AMS resin ALQ-184 ECM pod and a couple Zactomodel AIM-9M missiles, this pig will be armed to the teeth with great looking ordnance.

Well, I made it! My foot surgery turned out pretty much as expected, with lots of pain the first day and hardly anything thereafter. I have only one 3 inch pin in one toe and I need to wear a removable cast for at least 6 weeks. Overall, not too bad.

With my foot up on a rest, I decided to do some modeling rather than watch Dr. Phil all day, so here’s today’s progress. As mentioned above, there’s a very large gap between the VS and HS which you just can’t get rid of with sanding and dry fitting. This is not a natural panel line and it does not exist at all, so you should try to remove it…

Normally I would fill the gap with either putty or CA glue, but in my experience, these VS’s are going to get bumped now and then, which will likely result in a small crack that shows up at the most inconvenient time- like at the end of the build after painting! I’ve watched a lot of you guys use “liquid sprue” to fill gaps, so I thought I would give it a try. For those unfamiliar with liquid sprue, you just fill a jar with about half plastic cement and half small bits of cut up sprue, then let the mixture sit for a day or two while the sprue melts. To get the right consistency, just add more sprue or glue as required.

I used liquid sprue for a couple of reasons. First, I wanted to give it a try, but more importantly, I wanted a very strong join that was flexible, easily sanded and would not crack. I used a bit too much of the mixture when attaching the VS’s in order to get it to ooze out. I used the very same sprue as used in this kit, so the color match is almost perfect. Try not to get any liquid sprue on the VS’s like I did, because it’s difficult to remove later adjacent to the raised rivet detail. You can use a toothpick to pull it away if you do it early and you’re careful. Remember, this is basically liquid plastic cement, so it melts everything it touches….

Since the sprue mixture is so thick, you need to let it sit for at least 2 days before it’s hard enough for sanding. I used my #11 knife to cut off the excess, then sanded it down, followed by re-scribing all panel lines and re-punching every rivet. Much better now…..

Now that the VS’s have been cleaned up, it’s now time to attach the assembly to the rear fuselage. The fit from the top is quite good with almost no gap on either side…

From the bottom, however, it’s crappy as usual. Panel line and rivet detail doesn’t match up and the HS is raised leaving a big seam..

Another angle. Note how the rivet detail doesn’t match at all on the right side….

Checking reference photos, it turns out that this is not much of a problem, because NONE of these rivets should be there in the first place! I sanded them all off and applied thinned putty to the panel line on each side…

After sanding the putty, this is generally what the rivet pattern should look like using more Archer decal rivets, which is more around the circumference of the rear fuselage than longitudinal on the kit. I also added the bottom hinge detail and the triangular rivet pattern that is usually present, marking where the older AN/ALR-46 RHAW antenna once was. This was cut off earlier, leaving the yellow color of the epoxy I used to fill the resultant gap….

Another angle. This isn’t perfect by any means, because a lot of these rivets should be double wide, but I didn’t want to go too heavy and overpower everything with rivets. To me the pattern and theme is more important- and it’s a whole lot better than the kit! Those formation lights are still way too big, but after I paint the frames, they will shrink considerably….

[chuck540z3]

With that part of the build now complete, I should be gluing the engines to the rear fuselage. The general fit this time is not bad, but there are some serious gaps at the rear. Before I tackle that, however, I need to paint the fuselage sides under the engines while I still have good access. That will have to wait a few days while my foot heals a bit more. Standing for 20 minutes by my paint booth is just not smart right now- and my wife would kill me!

I have already made sure that the front fuselage to rear fit is almost perfect, to eliminate as much work as possible later- all I need to do is glue it on. This Pig is getting BIG!....

Future challenge is the wings, which are horrible with poor panel line detail and ailerons that look like weak panel lines. We’ll fix that!

Thanks for checking in and all the good wishes. We’re on the back 9 now!

Edited November 10, 2013 by chuck540z3

[brewer]

Looking great, Chuck!

You're certainly beating this one into submission and then some! You've got more dedication than I do, and your attention to detail is spectacular! I haven't spoken up much, but I've been watching the build every step of the way :)

Keep up the great work!

Brewer

[kike]

Wow Chuck, i can't stop watcing your threads cause everytime there's something to learn! great modeling technique!

[sharkmouth]

Archer has saved me so many times with their rivets. This pig is actually cute, have a 'face scheme planner for her?

Regards,

[JohnS]

Hi Chuck! Glad the surgery went well and you're on your way to recovery.

Thanks for the description & pic's about the glue/sprue filler mixture. It looks like a nice alternative to putty, and without the excessive shrinkage.

[zaxos345]

Well Chuck i could not wait something less than that!! Awesome job on those small details, it really amazes me the way you show everything to seem so easy!!!

Anyway, i have a question for you, i have also used Archer rivets once but i had problem with the silvering even though i used Micro set and sol. I tried to cut as closed as i could to the rivets, but i could still see the transfer material. Do you follow a different technique? Can you describe your approach to that? If i remember well, the surface should be gloss enough to accept them, is it right?

I wish a quick recovery,

John

[chuck540z3]

Thanks Guys!

Looking great, Chuck!

You're certainly beating this one into submission and then some! You've got more dedication than I do, and your attention to detail is spectacular! I haven't spoken up much, but I've been watching the build every step of the way

Keep up the great work!

Brewer

Hey Brewer, I often think of you during this build, because I think you told me you started this kit then just put it away due to frustration. I know how you felt! How far along did you get anyway? Thanks for the comments.

Well Chuck i could not wait something less than that!! Awesome job on those small details, it really amazes me the way you show everything to seem so easy!!!

Anyway, i have a question for you, i have also used Archer rivets once but i had problem with the silvering even though i used Micro set and sol. I tried to cut as closed as i could to the rivets, but i could still see the transfer material. Do you follow a different technique? Can you describe your approach to that? If i remember well, the surface should be gloss enough to accept them, is it right?

I wish a quick recovery,

John

Hi John,

Silvering isn't a problem because I'm going to paint over the rivets and film backing anyway, so if there's some silvering, it will be covered up. The key is to suck the backing as close to the bare (sanded smooth) plastic as possible with Microsol, let it dry a few minutes, then I paint a thin coat of Future on all the rivets with a brush to seal them in and allow Future to be pulled underneath the film backing by capillary action. The Future along the backing edge also levels the edge, making it almost invisible. If you look at the pics above, you'll notice a shine to all the rivets- that's the Future.

I spent some time last night reviewing all the wing details. I have a LOT of work ahead of me! :o

[brewer]

Hey Brewer, I often think of you during this build, because I think you told me you started this kit then just put it away due to frustration. I know how you felt! How far along did you get anyway? Thanks for the comments.

I finished the cockpit (think I used True Details with an Eduard IP, meh), closed up the fuselage, built up the wings and tail assembly, rescribed EVERYTHING, then just got too frustrated with the fit. I tried to take a break and just work on the ordnance for a while and get back to the airframe later, but ended up passing the half-built kit on to local friend. 1/32 jets are too big for me anyway! haha

Edited November 10, 2013 by brewer

[A-10 LOADER]

She looks amazing Chuck, a true work of art by a true craftsman. Glad the surgery went well.

Steve

[Skinny_Mike]

Hiya Chuck - glad your surgery went well. I wish you a speedy recovery!

Thanks for the explanation on the "liquid plastic" method for filling those seams. I'm going to have to add that one to the toolbox!

Mike

[chuck540z3]

Thanks Guys!

Aileron Surgery

I’ve heard a lot of things about how bad the wings on this kit are. They are all true! Trumpeter has gone to great lengths to provide movable elevators, rudders and flaps on this kit, but the ailerons are molded into the wings as panel lines only, with the speed brakes or decelerons attached to the back, which are movable. Other than the big gun, one of the most characteristic features of the A-10 is the aileron/deceleron combo, which has fairly wide gaps within the wing. Here’s what the ailerons look like (along with all the other dull and weak wing detail), with the top on the right and the bottom on the left. I decided to cut the ailerons out, but I couldn’t figure out why the hinge position (triangular tabs) was different from top to bottom. Checking reference pics, it turns out that the hinge on the bottom is one full panel too far to the right and the gap beneath it, should be shifted to the left accordingly. This adjustment makes the top and bottom of the aileron roughly the same width, as it should be.

To cut out plastic, I always use a scriber and use progressively deeper cuts until I’m almost through, followed by a #11 knife. Note that I have cut along the rear panel line and also cut out the tab on the left, which I believe is a counter balance.

With top and bottom ailerons parts removed, it should look something like this with the top and bottom wing halves placed together.

The top aileron and bottom aileron side by side, after filling in the gap with putty on the bottom one. Note how close they are in width now- but not exactly the same, so you need to make adjustments later.

The leading edge of the aileron is rounded and tucked against the inside of the wing, which you never see. After attaching both halves to the aileron bulkhead (Parts N3/N4), I sanded the front leading edge of both halves to give it a rounded look, then I made two inserts out of styrene to be used to reattach the aileron to the wing.

Sanding the leading edge destroys the two hinges, so I added replacements out of more styrene, then attached the rear deceleron flaps, which are attached to the aileron with four large hinges. The kit hinges are just flaps, so I added some small hinges out of brass to add some interest and get something closer to the real deal, although it is admittedly more art than science. The trim tab on the left was scribed to provide a separation from the flap as well.

Speaking of trim tabs, check out the difference in size from the starboard side on the left to the port side trim tab on the right. A lot of guys just cut the trim tabs off and add new ones out of styrene, but I wanted to keep the actuator hinge and counter balance attachments, which I’ve left off these pics to avoid breakage. I just sanded down the trim tab on the left a bit and then scribed deep panel lines to give it some relief.

I also added some hydraulic line detail to the aileron bulkhead, as per pics on Page 36 of Jake’s book. There are pins marks everywhere, but they kind of match the circular cut-outs and they would be a nightmare to remove, so I just left them. These flaps will be in the closed position 95% of the time anyway.

To get a tight fit from top to bottom, you need to sand either the top or bottom wing opening so that the gap between the aileron and the wing is even. Note how the styrene tabs are positioned directly beneath the hinges so that you won’t see them.

After sliding the assembly in, there should be a pronounced gap at the front of the aileron to wing opening.

[chuck540z3]

Same for the bottom. Since I had to sand off the old hinge, I made a new one out of styrene which I will add a pin to, to close the gap when I glue the aileron in. The other hinge is buried under the Station 1/15 pylon, which has the actuator for the aileron within it. None of the hinges top and bottom are exactly where they should be, but to move them would create all sorts of other issues, so like most things on this kit, “It’s Good Enough”!

One last comparison of the new vs. old aileron on the bottom. It was a ton of work, but I think the modifications were worth it. Now I need to work on the port side wing and do it all over again. At least this time, I have a plan and things should go much quicker.

After that is done, the wings still need some major work. I see some more “liquid sprue” in my future!

Thanks for your continued interest in this build.

Edited November 13, 2013 by chuck540z3

[sharkmouth]

Thanks for your continued interest in this build.

Continued it is!

Regards,

[nimrod77]

Continued it is!

Regards,

+1 always amazed at not only how well your builds come out Chuck, but how quickly you progress. The sub-assemblies anyway :-)

[Check Six]

Great build!

Very informative; Both from a modeler stand point as well as general a/c info.

Also; Speedy recovery on your foot surgery !

[sharkey]

It was worth it, indeed. Awesome work Chuck!

[zaxos345]

That's a really master class craftsmanship (hope i use the right word) there Chuck!! Really love it.

John

[chuck540z3]

Thank you everyone for the words of encouragement. It's great to see fairly keen interest in this build, because it is SO MUCH work!

A tiny update, but I thought I should mention it while I'm still working on it. I did the port side aileron today and, as I hoped, it went much faster than the first time when I had no idea what I was doing. Due to a slightly different assembly of the aileron parts to the bulkhead and the differences in cuts, I found that I had to sand down the bottom aileron cutout on the wing, rather than the top like last time. When you cut the wing halves and then put them together, you will find that the bottom cut is forward from the top cut. For some strange reason I glued the ailerons to the bulkhead with a bit of a stagger the first time, which worked out almost perfectly by just sanding the top wing cut a bit. This time it was the opposite, so be careful in how you cut, trim and glue the parts together. I had to dry fit and tweak the ailerons at least 30-40 times and I bet it took at least 12 hours to do both of them. I lot of time, yes, but I'm very happy with the results and what I really like is that I can just "plug and play" and slide them in towards the end of the build when the wings are assembled and off the ground.

Here's what I plan to do next in roughly chronological order:

1) Re-scribe and re-punch every panel line and rivet hole- just like the rest of the fuselage

2) Scratch build two more AN/AAR-47 Missile Warning System sensors to the front of the wing tips (just like the tail sensors)

3) Replace wing fence and stall strip with CE replacements

4) Detail and attach landing gear sponsons

5) With all of the above done, glue the wing halves together with the flaps (already assembled and painted)

6) Attach wings to fuselage

7) Landing gear assembly

8) Ordnance (all after-market) and pylon assembly

9) Painting- YES!

10) Decals

11) Weathering

12) Attach all tiny and breakable parts

I'm not sure how long this will all take, but if I finish in March, it will be one year since I started this Pig, which is typical of my builds. I'm already starting to think of what my next project will be, so I must be on the backstretch now!

[Twig]

Great to see everything coming along nicely Chuck. It's been a while since I last checked in on your build and as always your work is very inspirational! I don't know if I'll ever be brave enough to put in even a fraction of the effort you have on my A-10, but I appreciate you sharing your build with us.

Cheers, Craig

[JMan]

WOW, Chuck this is just phenomenal work! I am currently working on a 1/32nd F-16A and have cut the flaps and slats off and was hoping you could take a look at my WIP and give me some pointers on how to really get this to looking half as good as yours. It would greatly be appreciated! But again, WOW!!!!!!!!!

[coneheadff]

This is unbelievable!!! Fantastic...

I managed to get Jack's A-10 book on evilbay a week ago. That and your wonderful build are everything I need to try building an accurate A-10!

[GEH737]

A big problem I had with this kit was painting it. Very unwieldy with the wings attached to the fuselage. When / if I do another one, I'd paint the wings and fuselage separately, and then touch up the paint when they were finally attached. 1/32 is always a challenge - but the 'Hog presented some size issues.

Hitch

[jmel]

Looking great, Chuck. I look forward to seeing some paint and markings on it.

Jake

[ghatherly]

Hey Chuck, you are making good progress.

You did leave on item off of your list though. Don't forget the addition to your house to display this beast so that you have a place to put it when it is finished!

How is the foot coming along?

Take care, Gary