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1/32 Trumpeter A-10C Hog- "Putting Lipstick on a Pig of a Kit"


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Oh Chuck....http://www.ebay.com/itm/261189510237?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

To tell you the truth, I have been offered that same kit for FREE by Gary Hatherly (ghatherly), who is doing a great job of a 1/32 F-4G currently in progress with a Revell kit I sent him for free a few months ago. I have found many times that if you "pay it forward" at ARC, you get all sorts of rewards exceeding the "donation". I am not bragging, because I encourage others to do the same. It's fun and we can always use some help now and then. I, in turn, have received plenty!

So far, I have declined Gary's offer, because most of the gun, if I expose it at all, will be hidden and there's no use wasting a beautiful (and expensive) brass gun like that.

Thanks Gary!

Edited by chuck540z3
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Hi Chuck,

Great to see another of your fantastic builds starting off again. I have one of these to do for my brother, who absolutely adores the A-10. I'd love to start a parallel build with you but unfortunately I won't be able to get to the bench for the next 6 - 7 months, so I'll just have to watch you turn the lump of coal into a diamond with considerable jealousy!

Good luck with it mate,

Craig

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> Now some preliminary progress.

> As I applied the windscreen, I noticed 3 big scratches in the clear plastic part, so I tried to remove them, even though I have a Squadron

> replacement coming soon. The "scratch" is a molding flaw right in the plastic! Here's how it looks from one angle showing 2 "scratches"...

Cockpit8.jpg

Hi Chuck,

In addition the windshield looks very mishapen. Frames are too far apart from each other. Check this:

http://www.strategypage.com/gallery/images/a10_refuel_1.jpg

I hope that the Squadron windshield will be more accurate than this because canopy and windshield are one of the main focus of attention on a scale model.

Edited by galfa
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you probably knew about this.

http://www.squadron.com/product-p/sq9412.htm

squadron canopies do a 1/32 A10 canopy.

i've never bought one so i dont know what its like. they are on ebay too

I got the squadron canopy for my trumpy a-10 (2 actually, just in case) and they are much better shape wise.

BTW There is also a "tweak list" for the trumpy A-10 on LSP...best not read it too much...

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Nice start, Chuck.

Looking at the pictures of the clear parts, I guess the defects aren't really cracks, as much as the seams where injected plastic got together. Each part is injected from different places at (approximately) the same time, and where it comes together such defects can occur. A real annoyance, and any replacement parts you order might suffer the exact same defects. I have no idea if the occurrence of this type of thing has to do with pressure, temperature or just bad design of the moulds.

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Thanks Guys! I've already mentioned that I have the Squadron canopy coming (twice actually) and I have the "Tweak List", but keep the suggestions coming because you never know if I've missed something. I also have the Verlinden detail set coming that looks like this:

Verlinden A-10 Set

Other side

I may or may not use it all, but I like the idea of the only the small gun door open to reveal the gun, which now has a proper shell feeder to the gun. I may open up the other panels as well, but I'll wait until I see the parts before committing to the knife!

Thanks!

Edited by chuck540z3
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Took some quick pics off the squadron parts so you can see whats coming, trumpeter got it wrong in a number off places, the main canopy front is not vertical but at an angle, the front canopy sides when looked from the front is flat/vertical when they should be more round. The Squadron parts all fixed that

and as you can see my trumpy parts are als full of (deep) scratches!

P1010190.jpg

P1010191.jpg

P1010192.jpg

P1010194.jpg

P1010195.jpg

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Took some quick pics off the squadron parts so you can see whats coming, trumpeter got it wrong in a number off places, the main canopy front is not vertical but at an angle, the front canopy sides when looked from the front is flat/vertical when they should be more round. The Squadron parts all fixed that

and as you can see my trumpy parts are also full of (deep) scratches!

Thanks for the pics! It looks like the same flaws as my windscreen, so I bet most (if not all) are the same. What a huge flaw on a $100 kit.

Any suggestions on how to cut those parts? My luck with cutting clear plastic is not good.

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Here some pics off the real thing, notice that the front canopy sides are bulged and they are tinted (smoke color) nothing like that on the trump parts. Also the whole canopy frame is lined with big rivets, seems that the squadron canopy will need some xtra work too

vanallesennogwa479.jpg

vanallesennogwa475.jpg

vanallesennogwa490.jpg

Mark,

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Chuck, GREAT to see you start the A-10... you are one brave man! I think it will dominate your display once done and be absolutely worth all the effort.

The front gun area isn't much better. That crooked seam on the gun shroud isn't real and how do I sand down the rough surface without removing the raised rivets?
Welcome to a whole different world of modelling <_< You may want to invest in those stick-on rivets, you'll likely really need them on this build, including on the windscreen framing.

Something else you may want to think about are the intakes, they are too shallow. That and the windscreen are the two biggest issues on the kit imo (aside from the basic quality things). Sierra Hotel state on their website that they want to release corrected intakes for this kit, I have previously e-mailed them requesting an eta but never got a response.

Must say I am very curious to see what scheme you will clothe her in.

:cheers:

Marcel

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Welcome to a whole different world of modelling. You may want to invest in those stick-on rivets, you'll likely really need them on this build, including on the windscreen framing.

Something else you may want to think about are the intakes, they are too shallow. That and the windscreen are the two biggest issues on the kit imo (aside from the basic quality things). Sierra Hotel state on their website that they want to release corrected intakes for this kit, I have previously e-mailed them requesting an eta but never got a response

:cheers:

Marcel

Thanks for the tips and pics guys. I have the Archer raised rivet decals I was going to use on the Mustang, but I didn't need them, so I think they will now find a home on the Squadron canopy/windscreen. With a little Future as an adhesive, they should work great. We'll see!

Edited by chuck540z3
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Chuck, GREAT to see you start the A-10... you are one brave man! I think it will dominate your display once done and be absolutely worth all the effort.

Welcome to a whole different world of modelling <_</>/> You may want to invest in those stick-on rivets, you'll likely really need them on this build, including on the windscreen framing.

Something else you may want to think about are the intakes, they are too shallow. That and the windscreen are the two biggest issues on the kit imo (aside from the basic quality things). Sierra Hotel state on their website that they want to release corrected intakes for this kit, I have previously e-mailed them requesting an eta but never got a response.

Must say I am very curious to see what scheme you will clothe her in.

:cheers:/>/>

Marcel

Hi Chuck, been following your Mustang build and now this one with interest. I have a few sheets of these rivet embossed decals. If you want a few, just send me a PM. :)/>

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Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the kind words, and the Cannon Barrel kit is here if you change your mind. You also might take a look at the Verlinden detail kits if you have not already done so, depending on what you are opening up. The good news is they are inexpensive, and I find that certain details of their kits are quit handy to use, especially for the price. I have one of these HOGs in my stash, and may get to it some day. IF i could chime in on the Canopy issue, here goes:

The canopy is a huge deal to me with this jet, and I think the nose profile is wrong also in that it is too blunt / wide as the nose comes to the nose cone. but that is another story. For the canopy, I have toyed with the idea of building the frame out of Brass stock and sheeting for the frame and solder it together, then add the clear and tinted panels after paint.

With the side wall, can they be carefully removed ( cut out ) for painting and reinstalled?

Anyhow, Just my 2 cents, Looking forward to seeing another of your creations unfold.

Gary

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vanallesennogwa479.jpg

This photo reminds me of a story! A long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I had the opportunity to work on a project that included the brief use of an A-10. First of all the pilot of this aircraft was by far, the most down to earth pilot I have ever met and he just loved his airplane. I noticed on the aircraft we were using that the nose was dented, roughly right where those scratches are on this photo. I don't mean a little bit of paint peeled off, the nose of this thing looked like someone had hit it a good dozen times with a baseball bat! When I asked the pilot what had happened his answer was - "someone probably hit the refueling boom" - and when I asked why they had not replaced the panel he told me - "cause someone else is going to hit the refueling boom!" Honest - you can't make this up! It was one of those events that has stuck with me since. Its just part of the mystique of the Hog.

I'm looking forward to this build. This is a great airplane, and Chuck, I know you'll do her proud! And we all might just learn something along the way!

Mike

Edited by Skinny_Mike
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Any suggestions on how to cut those parts? My luck with cutting clear plastic is not good.

Hi Chuck,

FWIW - Try filling the hollow backing of the clear vac form screen with a stiff, flexible putty - Dental Putty is great, but SillyPutty also works. This gives some easily-removed flexible support for cutting.

Depending on how steady your hand is, either free-hand or with tape guides, very gently scribe repeatedly with a new no. 10a or equivalent blade. Use a fresh blade for each peripheral line.

It has worked for me.

Looking forward to the build.

Molardoc.

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Hi Chuck, you certainly enjoy a challenge don't you? I've been away for a couple of days so it's a thrill to get back and spot this thread. I'll be taking copious notes along the way because I have an A-10 in the stash that I hope to get to one day. I'm not sure whether to be discouraged or inspired by your findings so far but I'll tag along for the ride.

If anyone can beat this kit into submission, it's you.

Cheers.

:cheers:

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Any suggestions on how to cut those parts?

Chuck, this works for me. First define the line with a strip of Dymo tape. Canopy needs to be grease free so Dymo tape doesn't move. The separation line, if not that visible, can be 'visualised' with some marks with a very fine felt tip marker. Then scribe whilst supporting the canopy inside with your fingers until you feel the scriber is almost through. Using a 5 thou saw blade the scribed line is easily followed for a clean separation, without injury. The remaining ‘edges’ were then removed with sharp surgical scissors cutting slightly wide; sand to final shape/fit by trial fit to frame

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/A-7E%20Corsair/57a_zps016cdae1.jpg

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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Hi Chuck, been following your Mustang build and now this one with interest. I have a few sheets of these rivet embossed decals. If you want a few, just send me a PM.

Thank you sir! As mentioned, I still have a whole sheet or two of the Archer rivets, so I think I'm good to go. You never know how things might go, however, so it's nice to know that you have provided me with a "Plan B".

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the kind words, and the Cannon Barrel kit is here if you change your mind. You also might take a look at the Verlinden detail kits if you have not already done so, depending on what you are opening up. The good news is they are inexpensive, and I find that certain details of their kits are quit handy to use, especially for the price.

With the side wall, can they be carefully removed ( cut out ) for painting and reinstalled?

Gary

As mentioned I have the Verlinden kit on the way. While opening up all sort of panels might be fun, the reality is that I'm not a huge fan of too many panels opened up because it detracts from the lines of the jet and, the real reason- I suck at scratch building! Opening up the bottom door to reveal the gun has always appealed to me, however, as I did on my F-4E build. Since the A-10 is mostly just a vehicle to house a huge gun in the air, and the kit comes with a decent gun already, it would be a shame to hide it completely. Unfortunately the shell feeder is really inaccurate, so I was leaning towards not showing it, but the Verlinden set appears to have a brass shell feeder that just might work. I also like the fact that only the front small door can be opened, so that you can still see the gun without a huge amount of scratch building a decent looking interior. When I get the Verlinden set, I'll decide what, if any, I will use.

This photo reminds me of a story! A long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I had the opportunity to work on a project that included the brief use of an A-10. First of all the pilot of this aircraft was by far, the most down to earth pilot I have ever met and he just loved his airplane. I noticed on the aircraft we were using that the nose was dented, roughly right where those scratches are on this photo. I don't mean a little bit of paint peeled off, the nose of this thing looked like someone had hit it a good dozen times with a baseball bat! When I asked the pilot what had happened his answer was - "someone probably hit the refueling boom" - and when I asked why they had not replaced the panel he told me - "cause someone else is going to hit the refueling boom!" Honest - you can't make this up! It was one of those events that has stuck with me since. Its just part of the mystique of the Hog.

I'm looking forward to this build. This is a great airplane, and Chuck, I know you'll do her proud! And we all might just learn something along the way!

Mike

Thanks for that tidbit Mike. It turns out that Jake's Hog Book has many examples of the very same thing. While tempting to consider giving this hog some "boom dents", the nose art I am likely to use would be harmed, rather than helped, by such a detail. Also, before I am reminded again, I do have plans for modifying the nose which will likely occur soon, so stay tuned.

FWIW - Try filling the hollow backing of the clear vac form screen with a stiff, flexible putty - Dental Putty is great, but SillyPutty also works. This gives some easily-removed flexible support for cutting.

Depending on how steady your hand is, either free-hand or with tape guides, very gently scribe repeatedly with a new no. 10a or equivalent blade. Use a fresh blade for each peripheral line.

Molardoc.

Chuck, this works for me. First define the line with a strip of Dymo tape. Canopy needs to be grease free so Dymo tape doesn't move. The separation line, if not that visible, can be 'visualised' with some marks with a very fine felt tip marker. Then scribe whilst supporting the canopy inside with your fingers until you feel the scriber is almost through. Using a 5 thou saw blade the scribed line is easily followed for a clean separation, without injury. The remaining ‘edges’ were then removed with sharp surgical scissors cutting slightly wide; sand to final shape/fit by trial fit to frame

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/A-7E%20Corsair/57a_zps016cdae1.jpg

Thanks guys for those tips. I'll use some poster putty for the inside, then do the Dymo tape and scriber routine and see what happens. A scriber over an ordinary blade seems to make sense because you use a similar tool to cut real glass, and I have had great success in the past using a scriber to cut plastic right through.

Although I've got a bit of momentum in the build going now, I can tell that I'll need to pace myself because I plan on re-scribing every panel line and re-punching every rivet- amongst 10,000 other things!

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