f4u-4 1/48 corsair

[catfan]

os i have in 1/48 3 f4u-4 corsairs 1 each from acadmey/minicraft,monogram/revell and hasagwa, so wich one is the best and what needs to be fixed on the kits. and while we are add it who makes the best gloss sea blue for korea war corsairs?

[Jennings]

There are probably as many opinions as people to have them, but I think even with its raised panel lines the old Mania/Hasegawa kit is still the most accurate.

For my money the best match for USN Gloss Sea Blue is Xtracrylics.

[Joe Hegedus]

The Hasegawa is the best 1/48 F4U-4 overall, IMO. Definitely the best of the 3 you mention.

I prefer Model Master Dark Sea Blue FS15042 for my GSB schemes.

[catfan]

ok so who makes the best gloss sea blue for a kora war corsair i ask because the testors vertion has green in it and i think its more blue. and what about inteior green is there a right shade thats not to apple green?

[FCM]

I have Hasegawa and Minicraft. The Minicraft kit is almost a copy of Hasegawa, but with engraved panel lines. Instead it is a F4-U4B, it is reversible to F4-U4.

[DonSS3]

Catfan, the Interior Green is a pretty common paint color. L=If you like Modelmaster try their line. Essentially (although the color came out before the FS system was in place) look for FS 34151. Typically, the cockpit would be black above the side consoles and Interior Green below (including the floor). I like Modelmaster's Sea Blue (FS 15042 or 35042) or Xtracolour's Gloss equivalent.

[Joe Hegedus]

Model Master Dark Sea Blue has been my go-to color for USN GSB schemes for a couple of decades. I think it looks best out of the available options.

The Academy F4U-4 is, as noted, ALMOST a copy of the Hasegawa version, with recessed panel lines, but they really screwed up the shape of the fuselage from the windscreen back.

[catfan]

so I am working on my F4u-4 corsair now on war time ones what color would the main wheel hub be and the ineer part of the tail wheel doors and also on the front main landing gear?? the struts and landing gear doors and wheel bay?

[catfan]

im building the plane for the revell contest

[Otto]

I agree with all of you guys, The Hasegawa kit still has BY FAR the best outline even throwing the Hobby Boss kit into the mix. If you dont mind the raised panel lines and you want to update the cockpit you canget an outstanding model in outline and accuracy out of that kit. The Hobby Boss kit is an absolute disaster and is good for parts only to help update and detail your Hasegawa model. On eBay I just had the opportunity to buy 60 rolls of embossing tape for $15 including shipping so I have a lifetime supply for scribing new panel lines. And as mentioned the Academy kit is "Almost" a copy of the Hasegawa kit. Also as mentioned, Academy screwed up the Canopy, cockpit, and turtle back area.

[Otto]

Here is a question for all you Hasegawa Corsair kit experts, Are these kits all the same kit in just a different vintage boxing?

Edited November 30, 2013 by Otto

[Jennings]

All three are the same plastic.

[Otto]

I was praying that was the case. For a while I worried that the Hasegawa/Minicraft was the Academy plastic.

[Joe Hegedus]

The one on the bottom is probaby the crispest molding, being the earliest issue. The middle one would be next.

[mawz]

I was praying that was the case. For a while I worried that the Hasegawa/Minicraft was the Academy plastic.

You will never find Academy plastic in a Hasegawa/Minicraft box, as those boxes predate the existence of Academy. You will find either Hasegawa plastic or in a few cases Hasegawa pops of Frog plastic (Hasegawa and Frog shared a few molds in the 70's).

Frankly, I'm not sure if any of the Minicraft in-house kits were ever boxed in Hasegawa/Minicraft boxes. That's probably the only edge case where there might be the same molds in a Hasegawa/Minicraft box and a box labelled Academy (Academy/Minicraft to be exact).

[Otto]

As you guys may have read in another thread, I finally broke down and took the risk and bought the HB F4U-4. This was a very poor decision on my part because my "gut" suspicions were not only confirmed but turned into an outright regret. The Hasegawa blows it out of the water in every way but the cockpit and wingfoald. The HP is truly a joke in every way and usable ONLY as parts to update your Hasegawa kit. Has anyone ever used the Squadron 48260 canopy? It is listed as being for the Hasegawa / Academy kits but we all know that particularly in that area those two kits are WAY different. The Academy is much wider.

Update--- Update--- Update

I answered my own question. I went through my Immense stash of kits and here is what I found in just the 1/48 F4U-4s 4x Hasegawa, 3x Academy/Minicraft, 2x 4B Academy (and the junk from Hobby Boss) Also a mix of 8 Au/F4U-5 Hasegawa.

So the canopy from Squadron is for the Hasegawa and NOT Not for the Academy kits. This news will make a good corsair much easier to make with a only slight bash. Now this is for me exciting news. One of my goals is to build every aircraft which my old (original) squadron flew. Here is the list in chronological order.

SBD-5 (Solomon Islands) (VMSB-235 Red Wolves)(no code)

F4U-4 (early) Korea (VMF-235 Death Angels)(WU)

F4U-4 (late) Korea VMF-235 Death Angels)(WU)

F9F-2 Post Korea VMF-235 DA (WU)

FJ2 Mid 50s VMF-235 (WU)

FJ4 Mid 50s VMF-235 (WU)

FJ3M Late 50s VMF-235 (DB)

F8A/D/E Pre Vietnam and early Vietnam VMF(AW) (DB)

F-4J Jate and post Vietnam VMFA-235 (DB)

F-4J-S (Super J) Early 80s VMFA (DB)

F-4S Early 80s VMFA (DB)

F-18C Mid 80s to decomposition early 90s RIP (DB)

The F4U-4, FJ2 and FJ3 are the only stumbling blocks.

Edited December 1, 2013 by Otto

[Joe Hegedus]

I can't think of any reason why one would need to replace a Hasegawa kit canopy, unless they damaged the one that came with it, or they wanted to build an airplane that used the round windscreen. The windscreen frames on the kit canopy are really the only problem with it, and are fixable. The sliding part is thin enough that it sits over the spine in the opened position just fine.

[Otto]

I can't think of any reason why one would need to replace a Hasegawa kit canopy, unless they damaged the one that came with it, or they wanted to build an airplane that used the round windscreen. The windscreen frames on the kit canopy are really the only problem with it, and are fixable. The sliding part is thin enough that it sits over the spine in the opened position just fine.

I agree with almost that entire statement. The whole front canopy section is a bit off in the windscreen section. But like you said, "fixable" The irony is that the Academy kit might also be fixable just by narrowing down the entire cockpit and turtleback section with the removal of a "wedge" This i would have to investigate a bit closer though. The second thing that makes the Hasegawa superior over the Academy is the fabric sections which are WAY over Exaggerated in the Academy kit. That area is very nice on the Hasegawa kit

[Otto]

I have also figured out that Rob Taurus makes a very nice and inexpensive canopy for the F4U-5/AU-1 and the windscreen was the same on those birds. There is the source for a new front canopy. http://www.hobbyshop.cz/shop/1-48-vacu-canopies/1599-f4u-5-corsair-148-vacu-canopy.html That makes it about $1.50 or so. I have a lot of his canopies and they are by far the best i have ever seen. Not too thin and completely clear and with no more distortion than the real one.

[Otto]

Here is a very interesting and excellent picture. Looking at this picture, tells me that EVERY SINGLE F4U-4 model out there is WAY too wide in the aft canopy area BUT having said that the F4U-5/AU-1 models are PERFECT. This would mean that the Hasegawa corsair narrowed down to fit the entire Rob Taurus canopy for the F4U-5/AU-1 Hasegawa kit Will result in the perfect shaped aft section on a Hasegawa F4U-4 model.

Notice how narrow and pointy the top of the canopy really is. Since the F4U-5 and AU-1 used the same canopy as the f4U-4 but re-positioned to accommodate the raised seat for better forward and downward visibility, that would make a lot of sense.

Now the only thing that remains is the widening of the prop blades on the kit prop. This is very easily done just by splitting the blades and inserting a wedge. It is a misconception that the blades are tapered. They actually are a constant cord but just have that appearance due to the twist in the blade.

Now please notice the the extremely smooth lines of the lower cowling in the picture below and the detail of the prop hub.

Edited December 1, 2013 by Otto

[Ivy-5]

Hi.

What about a Hase/Mania nose and hood grafted on a modified Hase dash 5 ?

This can give a -4B with little effort IMHO

[Joe Hegedus]

You'd still need the earlier outer wing panels, with the fabric covers, instead of the -5 outer wings, as well as the earlier stabs, and also the earlier rear fuselage around the tail wheel well, since I believe the -5 stabs didn't have the 3 circular access panels found on the earlier versions, and also had a fully enclosed tailwheel/tailhook with full-length doors instead of the partially exposed tailwheel and hook.

The -4 and -5 cockpits were quite different, too. You can get there that way, but I think it's more work and hassle than just starting with the Hase -4 and doing the wing mod to the cannon configuration and upgrading the cockpit. YMMV.

[Ivy-5]

You are right, however these are not heavy modifications.

I tried it some years ago, and was quite happy with the result.

Found it easier than re-engraving the whole Mania Corsair.

I used a TD cockpit, by the way.

Edited December 2, 2013 by Ivy-5

[Otto]

You are right, however these are not heavy modifications.

I tried it some years ago, and was quite happy with the result.

Found it easier than re-engraving the whole Mania Corsair.

I used a TD cockpit, by the way.

As you will notice, you are missing all the fabric detail on the wings. I would rather keep the raised panel lines than to loose that detail.

[Ivy-5]

Yes.

However fabric details are not that easy to see even on the real Corsair.

Depends on personal tastes, maybe.