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F/A-18C Academy 1/32


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Hi everybody,

I'm aware of the rumour that the F/A18C will be victim to the gravity. Do you have any experience with the replacement gears on the markte? I know about SAC but how about this one for example? Maybe some other ideas to prevent the problems?

Hope you can help!

Cheers!

Laurens

gfm32008.jpg

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Agreed.. those are the best available without question.

Although, on first glance, that package looks like it's missing a tree. There should be a second parts tree in the package that contains all the smaller links and rods.

The only downside with them (and the SAC set as the same problem), is that the shocks are cast onto the main gear parts. If you're doing a Canadian version, you have to cut those out and replace them. Which can be a bit of a pain. It would have been nice had they been separate parts making for less cutting work.

Edited by RiderFan
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I ordered two sets of those not too long ago and that's all that came in the package (what is pictured above). I too thought that it was supposed to have another sprue but don't know if that has changed or it was a special in the beginning?

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I don't see any benefit to having cast-metal gear in place of Academy's kit parts. The weakness in the gear is in how they are attached to the model, and if you install the kit parts correctly they will have the same strength at the joins in the main gear bay as the metal parts would.

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Incorrect Andrew.

The weak point is the axle which splays outward under load.

There are plenty of pics of this fate to Academy Hornets.

The G factor gear is the best on the market..highly recommended!

Edited by dehowie
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<_< hmmm, they look good but are also expensive. Any alternatives? I'm planning to put it on a base including a centerline tank. Because the tank is just a few mm above the deck, maybe I can use some kind of pin which will hardly be noticed because it goes through the tank into the plane itself. It would take the tension of the main gears I think.

LS

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No real alternative than the SAC and G-Factor Gear. Looks like that extra sprue is gone, I too did not have it in my package. But you do get what you pay for. The SAC gear are ok, detail is a bit soft, the Elbow area in the MLG is not as accurate as it is one solid piece you can't see through as in the G-Factor. The down side of the G-Factor gear is that is is a bit Pebbly in finish. As to changing the MLG shock to Canadian gear it is not that hard with a Dremel and a Cutting Wheel..... This is the only place where the SAC Gear is Better, SAC does not include the Shock molded in.

I had purchased both for my build and decided to use the G-Factor MLG (I'm still debating whether I'll be using the NLG)

Here are a couple of Pictures.

Unaltered G-Factor Gear

0092_zps04f2e80e.jpg

Altered to Canadian Gear

March082013001_zpsebf512e1.jpg

Cheers

Emil

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This is what came in my G-Factor Gear package. All of my sets have two extra sprues. But, to be fair, you really don't need them. None of the extra bits are weight-bearing so the plastic parts would work just as well.

g-factor_zps41ec326b.jpg

Where do you all get your G-factor gears? Been looking for some for my two Academy Hornets for a while...

I usually get mine from Spruebrothers but it looks like they are, Yet Again, out of stock; http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/gfm32008.htm

Edited by RiderFan
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The kit parts themselves are quite detailed and fairly accurate. I've heard that you can avoid the weight bending the knuckles somewhat by how you put the kit gear together. Instead of just putting the metal rods inside and gluing the kit parts around it it's said to glue the metal pieces to the parts and then glue the pieces together. When I do mine here shortly I'll be using the kit parts and I plan on using epoxy to hold the metal rods firmly in place while constructing the plastic around them. We'll see over time if this works.

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The kit parts themselves are quite detailed and fairly accurate. I've heard that you can avoid the weight bending the knuckles somewhat by how you put the kit gear together. Instead of just putting the metal rods inside and gluing the kit parts around it it's said to glue the metal pieces to the parts and then glue the pieces together. When I do mine here shortly I'll be using the kit parts and I plan on using epoxy to hold the metal rods firmly in place while constructing the plastic around them. We'll see over time if this works.

I agree. I think if you soak the insides of the legs with CA glue (or epoxy), then glue them together the usual way, the sag will go away. Based upon my experiences with the landing gear assembled as per instructions and later using the G-Factor gear, I think the metal pin inside slides inside over time, creating the sag. If you eliminate the sliding, you eliminate the sagging. It must be, because on my first model that sagged, the legs are still attached where they should be with no movement, so the movement must be within the leg.

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You're right - my statement was incorrect. It should have said, "Speaking from my experience building the Academy F/A-18C, and seeing it on my shelf every day, I have had no problem with the kit main gear sagging, twisting, buckling, or breaking. The main wheels are still perpendicular to the surface the model is on."

Clearly, your mileage may vary. I'm sure that I flowed superglue into the leg halves when I installed the metal core parts. My point still stands: metal gear is not necessary. A few cents' worth of super glue and you're there. Metal gear is extra insurance if you are so inclined.

Incorrect Andrew.

The weak point is the axle which splays outward under load.

There are plenty of pics of this fate to Academy Hornets.

The G factor gear is the best on the market..highly recommended!

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For those who might want to see what can happen to the kit gear, here is a pic of my first build of this kit a few years ago, just gluing the landing gear with plastic cement. It's maybe hard to see in this pic, but the starboard (left in pic) side gear has compressed, so the Hornet now lists to one side slightly. The base of the leg is still firm, so the compression has occurred in the leg itself.

Gear1.jpg

Here's my second model, using G-Factor instead. There's no risk of compression now, but I still think the CA glue inside the leg trick just might be the solution.

Finalpic31.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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For those who might want to see what can happen to the kit gear, here is a pic of my first build of this kit a few years ago, just gluing the landing gear with plastic cement. It's maybe hard to see in this pic, but the starboard (left in pic) side gear has compressed, so the Hornet now lists to one side slightly. The base of the leg is still firm, so the compression has occurred in the leg itself.

Here's my second model, using G-Factor instead. There's no risk of compression now, but I still think the CA glue inside the leg trick just might be the solution.

Chuck

Coming from a guy with your reputation and skills, I have to trust your opinion. I have two to build sometime soon, and only one set of metal AM gear - might not be a disaster after all.

ALF

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For those who might want to see what can happen to the kit gear, here is a pic of my first build of this kit a few years ago, just gluing the landing gear with plastic cement. It's maybe hard to see in this pic, but the starboard (left in pic) side gear has compressed, so the Hornet now lists to one side slightly. The base of the leg is still firm, so the compression has occurred in the leg itself.

Gear1.jpg

Here's my second model, using G-Factor instead. There's no risk of compression now, but I still think the CA glue inside the leg trick just might be the solution.

Finalpic31.jpg

would have used ca (gap filler type) to anchor the mlg. a 1/32 f-18 is too large of a model for plastic cement as its too heavy. just my 2 cents :woot.gif:

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