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Jules Verne's Columbiad


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Hi Folks,

K2 Pete kindly suggested that I put up some pics, which might be of interest, of a build I have been working on for the last couple of years on and off. It is on hiatus at the moment whilst I work on the LM.

Have read and loved sci fi since I was a chuld and of course where is sci fi without Jules Verne ?

In the early 70’s I bought an 1875 English edition of ‘ From Earth to Moon ( only cost 50p – you could do that then ).

I was looking for a scratch build project that just gave the freedom of using one’s imagination for a change and Columbiad seemed just perfect.

The starting point was Montaunt’ great illustrtation. ( Henri de Montaut’s (1840?-1905?)

There are quite a few major discrepancies with the text which does in fact give a little detail of the structure but not much. What structural detail there is, is missing in the illustration, so I decided to stick with the text for about 98% of the model and let my imagination run riot ( sticking to good engineering principles of course ) . This is the result thus far.

I/2 inch scale in styrene sheet and the wonderful Milliput

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Nicely done John! Give that imagination a good work out!

How did you bend the channels? ... hot water and a 'jig', or form, to get them all the same? And the Milliput work is spot on!

... and I hope your membership in the "No Sox Brigade" is all paid up ... a 'bunch of loonies' indeed ...! :fight:

Pete

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Thanks Pete,

I made up a pattern from my design drawing and transferred it to styrene sheet and cut / edged them individually. I always find multiples somewhat tedious but when dealing with frames....you just gotta do it. Milliput...what a marvellous invention for us. Love the little animated guy. Couldn't agree more.

Cheers

John

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That's quite the interesting link John ... and Mr Dooley is pretty good, too!

I was looking at this build of yours yesterday, and wondered how you'll skin the ribs. And the last couple of pix show it skinned already!

Can you tell me how you did it? The styrene sub-layer simply looks like you may have cut out a formed piece and wrapped it around the ribs. But the thicker exterior surface ... don't tell me it's all Milliput!?

Thanx

Pete

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Hi Pete,

Am lucky in having access to a small vacuum former so it was just a question of making a mould of the cone from my drawing. Fortunately the double wall worked OK from the one mould. I used the same process on the double wall of the plain cylinder part. As it is a sectioned model, I cut out a suitable 'rough' edge to both and filled just that edge with Milliput, so as to represent the jagged edge of the broken casting. Verne has the Columbiad cast out of aluminium, more expensive than gold in 1865. I will represent the sectioned edges in aluminium leaf. I used the same idea on the base of the cylinder. The largest piece of aluminium that had ever been cast at that time was the cap of the Washington monument ( placed 1884 ) Hope this helps.

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Edited by johnbuck
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  • 8 months later...

Hi Folks,

OK....have been bashing away at Columbiad since last autumn and its starting to come together now. Am at that stage of colouring the sub assemblies before I fit them. There are still a few of them + touching up and some further pipe work.

Popped in Mr Verne for scale ( a modified G4 Presier figure...Gus the traveller ) only base coats on thus far. A crew of 3 + 2 dogs and 4 chickens...don't think I will put those in.....more cramped than the Apollo methinks.

Found the use of aluminium powder on PVA gives a good effect of cast aluminium so used it over the entire model along with aluminium leaf and colour washes.

Happy New Year to one and all.

Cheers

John

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Thanks Guys for you very kind comments.

It has and is great fun to build....just let the imagination run riot.......makes a nice change. You can be your own ' film -props man ' That is the great thing about sci-fi literature, it gives endless scope for idea/models. Would love to see some steam -punk posted in this forum too.

Thanks again...it's really appreciated.

Cheers

John

Edited by johnbuck
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Thanks PeterB, your kind comment is really appreciated.

First paper, then balsa wood and then styrene sheet came along...........

What a remarkable material it is. Everything ( and I think it is literally everything ) that can be built in metal, and wood for that matter, can be built in styrene..........extraordinary..... then add the invention of Milliput.............

Thanks again

Cheers

John

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Can you explain the aluminium powder technique my dear modelhopper? ( :rofl: ) ... and where would one get aluminum powder??

It looks like, when it's applied over the PVA there's quite a thickness and then in subsequent images it's polished. Is that the powder or the aluminium leaf?

The upholstery looks outstanding and the quilted Milliput is amazing. Such attention to detail!

And ... are those bolts attaching the floor boards to the structure to scale? or are they just what you had around the house? :whistle:

And I love the little covers (canister covers?) you've indicated in the bottom section of the 'spacecraft'

Thanx alot John

Pete

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Hi Guys,

thanks again for your kind comments.

So to your questionsPete. The aluminium powder I bought from GRB Supplies on Ebay, also available on Amazon. It is manufactured by Polycraft ( MB Fibreglass). They produce powders of aluminium,bronze,brass,copper, iron and so on. You can purchase different weights of the stuff and it seems to be mainly used as an additive with resin castings for metal effects.

After priming the styrenel it was 'painted' in a 2 parts water to 1 part PVA ( waterproof PVA, that is in the blue pack ) and immediately covered in the powder and then left to dry overnight as per the pic. The surplus is then brushed off. The shell of the model has in fact 3 coats of this ( or was it 4 ? ) ,polishing back with wet & dry and 4000 grade steel wool in between each coat. All the longerons were treated in the same way but only one coat. I found that by buffing back with a diamond tipped burr in places and colour washing in oils it was possible to get the variety of colour as found on cast aluminium.

The aluminium supports shelves/supports etc were painted in light grey Humbrol enamel and whilst this was wet aluminium leaf was laid on top ( I tried gold size in the normal way but it was too thick and hid the detail ). When dry this was partially rubbed back and dryish brushed in white enamel and lighter grey enamel and then lightly rubbed back again.

Took quite a bit of experimentation but I think the results are quite realistic.

The 'cannister covers' are my interpretation of what Verne partially describes. They have the retro 'fireworks' inserted which have made but have to be fitted on the sectioned part.

The bolts are 10BA and the wood sycamore, so to scale in my imagination. Verne describes his wooden waterproof disc as being disassembled after launch and the re- assembled when they thought they would land.

Incidentally I used Polycraft's iron powder on another model with which you can get some great rusting effects using white vinigar. It might also work to patina the bronze.....have to try that.

Hope this helps

Cheers

John

Edited by johnbuck
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They produce powders of aluminium,bronze,brass,copper, iron and so on. You can purchase different weights of the stuff and it seems to be mainly used as an additive with resin castings for metal effects.

I've used them for this precise purpose. They are inexpensive and mixed with the right medium (I've only tried resin so far) they produce a very interesting finish, often seen in one-off and resin jewellery. I'm going to have to try your technique though, it's produced a great result.

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Thanks PeterB...appreciated.

The method takes some time but worth it I think. Have never tried a resin carrier. One thing I did find, is that in aluminium at least, this method does not take kindly to 'patching' if one inadvertently abrades through to the styrene; so I have 'cheated in a couple of places but discovered this gives the rather realistic effect of a casting fault/irregularity. It's rather pleasant when serendipity takes over in this way ain't it. Always experimenting & learning......that is what is so great about scratch-building.

Cheers

John

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