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acrylic cleaner and thinner


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Does anyone have any good ideas for a cleaner and a thinner for Model Master acrylic paints? I've been using Testors Universal Thinner and Testors Universal Cleaner, but they're expensive. By the time I've built a model and cleaned my brushes and air brush several times, I've gone through a bottle of the cleaner. If you've found something else that works well, I'd like to try it.

On a slightly different subject, is there a solution of something I can make at home for pre-paint prep? I know detergent and water and a rinse and dry are good, but is there some fluid that I can just apply and wipe off a model? There are times when the detergent and water seem to be a bit much, such as toward the end of a build. BTW, I hate using latex gloves. In the 1/72 scale, they make me even clumsier than I already am.

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For cleanup of acrylics, I use a mixture of one part Simple Green (the concentrate that comes in gallon jugs), one part Windex, and two parts distilled water. I use this to clean both airbrush and hand brushes. I rinse afterwards with either alcohol (airbrush) or distilled water (hand brush), since the mixture is a little sudsy.

You could also try straight Windex to clean.

HTH

Stacey

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For cleanup of acrylics, I use a mixture of one part Simple Green (the concentrate that comes in gallon jugs), one part Windex, and two parts distilled water. I use this to clean both airbrush and hand brushes. I rinse afterwards with either alcohol (airbrush) or distilled water (hand brush), since the mixture is a little sudsy.

You could also try straight Windex to clean.

HTH

Stacey

What he said, but I'd rinse anything with Simple Green in it with distilled water, and follow that with alcohol.

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This is what I use to thin acrylics..........Cleans brushes great too........

Make your own windshield washer fluid

I make it by the quart (1.34L)

Recipe:

• 2.5 cups of water (H2O)

• ¼ teaspoon dish detergent (dish washing soap)….Soap breaks any surface tension

• ¾ cup of alcohol

If this is for vehicle use you can add a bit of food coloring……….

I use this fluid mixture to thin acrylic paint and to clean brushes and airbrushes (using acrylic paint)

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Edited by OldThudMan
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For the model masters acrylic paint I use Tamiya Acrylic thinner. Ratio is 50/50. For something for pre paint prep, I always use this:

p-2873_zps9c4cbca9.jpg

Do you thin all Model Masters acrylic paints 50/50? Some seem to need thinning, but 50/50 seems a little thin. On the other hand, I don't know what I'm doing most of the time I have an air brush in hand, so you could be right.

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For cleanup of acrylics, I use a mixture of one part Simple Green (the concentrate that comes in gallon jugs), one part Windex, and two parts distilled water. I use this to clean both airbrush and hand brushes. I rinse afterwards with either alcohol (airbrush) or distilled water (hand brush), since the mixture is a little sudsy.

You could also try straight Windex to clean.

HTH

Stacey

I wish there was an emoticon for hitting my head with my fist. I used Windex last year for cleanup, and it worked well for me. Then, I went on vacation and didn't build models for six months and forgot most of what I knew, including using Windex. I have a large bottle of it right next to what I call a paint booth. Thanks for the reminder.

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For thinning, use flow aid or retarder rather than soap. Soap can play havoc with acrylic polymers.

Rule of thumb: thin paint to the consistency of 2% milk for spraying. Yes, it's imprecise, but it's the only universal formula that works at all. —Voice of Experience

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What he said, but I'd rinse anything with Simple Green in it with distilled water, and follow that with alcohol.

Not sure if you guys are aware but simple green and windex, although excellent acrylic cleaning agents will damage the metals in your airbrush.

I have experienced it personally, a quick google search will provide more info on this.

My advice distilled water for simple cleans.

If you need a deep clean go for laquer thinner from Home Depot.

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Not sure if you guys are aware but simple green and windex, although excellent acrylic cleaning agents will damage the metals in your airbrush.

I have experienced it personally, a quick google search will provide more info on this.

My advice distilled water for simple cleans.

If you need a deep clean go for laquer thinner from Home Depot.

Yes, Simple Green will attack some metals, but the exposure time necessary is measured in hours to days, unless you are heating the solution or using an ultrasonic cleaner. Aluminum is particularly vulnerable.

So you should never allow a Simple Green solution to remain in the airbrush. This is common sense, and one of the wonderful things about the stuff is that it rinses away very readily, leaving no residue. That's why I said to rinse thoroughly with water, rather than alcohol. SG is less soluble in alcohol than in water.

Both SG and alcohol are also bad for the plastic/synthetic rubber seals in airbrushes.

No cleaning or rinsing solution, including water, should ever be allowed to remain in an airbrush.

As for Windex and other cleaners containing ammonia: Ammonia attacks most metals and synthetic rubbers. The same use conditions as for SG apply.

Lacquer thinner is a very effective cleaner, but is hell on the seals in an airbrush, not to mention your skin, lungs, brain, nerves, kidneys, bone marrow, liver, etc. One of the ideas behind using acrylics is to reduce your exposure to highly toxic materials. As far as I'm concerned, lacquer thinner is a "non-starter" for cleaning except in the case of neglect/forgetfulness/senior moment rolleyes.gif/>.

My cleaning procedure:

  1. Dump any remaining paint, wipe the paint cup.
  2. Fill paint cup with Windex or "Magic" (Simple Green, Windex, and water, 1:1:2).
  3. Blow through airbrush at 50 to 100 psi, depending on available air source and the airbrush, back-flushing half way through.
  4. Wipe any paint still in cup using a cotton swab if necessary.
  5. Repeat steps 2 and 3.
  6. Fill cup with distilled water, blow through as in step 3.
  7. Blow air through airbrush until dry.

Total time elapsed: <10 min.

This is generally adequate, but it pays to tear the brush down at the end of a heavy session and clean the parts thoroughly. Microbrushes and dental pick brushes are highly useful for cleaning small apertures.

Edited by Triarius
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Do you thin all Model Masters acrylic paints 50/50? Some seem to need thinning, but 50/50 seems a little thin. On the other hand, I don't know what I'm doing most of the time I have an air brush in hand, so you could be right.

I always use 50/50 mix for me and it works great! Doesn't clog up my airbrush or anything.

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I want to limit my reply to this topic to an alternative thinner for acrylic paints such as Tamiya it may or may not work well with Model Master acrylic paints? You can get a product called "Acrylic Lacquer Thinner" at an automotive paint supply store which works very well and it is less ecpensive by volume than Tamiya's brand sold for the modeling trade use. I will add a screen shot of the Tamiya website showing their indorsement of their own brand of "lacquer thinner" which is none other than acrylic lacquer thinner...

5162669046_f14f908281_b.jpg

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I want to limit my reply to this topic to an alternative thinner for acrylic paints such as Tamiya it may or may not work well with Model Master acrylic paints? You can get a product called "Acrylic Lacquer Thinner" at an automotive paint supply store which works very well and it is less ecpensive by volume than Tamiya's brand sold for the modeling trade use. I will add a screen shot of the Tamiya website showing their indorsement of their own brand of "lacquer thinner" which is none other than acrylic lacquer thinner...

5162669046_f14f908281_b.jpg

"Acrylic lacquer thinner" = alcohol, usually methyl, but ethyl and isopropyl also work and are possible. Actually, I suspect it is a blend, since not all acrylic polymers used in hobby paints are soluble in all common alcohols.

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