rom Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Hi guys, I sprayed the two other colors. The gray is Humbrol 126 based, lightened with white and a drop of blue. The blue is a mix of Blue 04 from revell, Blue 96 from humbrol, lightend with white and gray. The areas where zinchromate was sprayed are partially treated, leaving the color to show trough. The forward fuselage i covered when the plane is strored outside. So the colors are more "flashy" On the tail and forward fuselage, patches and strips of blue were applied to cover previous bort numbers. The major paintwork is done. I still have to paint the white and the dielectric panels and nose. Feel free to leave comments ;^) Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KRI76 Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 That paint-job is insane! STUNNING! :jaw-dropping: :jaw-dropping: /Kristian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Thank you Kristian ;^) Tomorow I will mayne paint the RWR white panels and start painting process on the nose too.. Bye Rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragan_mig31 Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 The painting is mindblowing.Great work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) Hi, Thank you dragan ;^) here is more paintjob. I carried out to spray the white areas. First, the rudders: Then the nose. I first sprayed a red/leather color. Then I sprayed a coat of white leaving undercoat showing trough on some areas: I let it dry for 24 hours. Then I sprayed another coat of white. And while this coat was still "fresh" I did some scratches with a coton swab dipped in solvent and a tooth pick. I also stamped very diltued light gray with a brush on the upper surface. It depicts the first layer of painted slighly peeling of.Letting under layer showing trough. As we can see on some pictures. When perfectly dry, the nose will be polished with micromesh. It will also receive a few coat of varnish. Cheers!! Rom Edited July 4, 2013 by rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 Rom, This is an epic paintjob! Truly well done! I'll be using this for a reference for sure! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Hi,  Thank you guys!  ;^)    I did some scratches under the cockpit. The top paint layer is soften with cellulosic thinner gently applied with a cotton swab (just a little) Then paint is scratched with a toothpick leaving the silver under layer to re-appear.     Then I sprayed some layers of Microscale Gloss varnish:    In to get a very smooth finish, I rubbed the varnish coat with several grades of Micromesh. Starting from 2400 to 12000.  "Et voilà "  ^^ :  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Â Â Â I then painted the metal plates of the canon area. Â Masking: Â Â Â Humbrol Metalcote 27003 is then sprayed. You get a rough finish you'll have to rub in order to get a metal shine effect: Â Â Â Â Â Â See you next time with decals!! Â Cheers, Â Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Wow!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Macbain Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Art, pure art in the third dimension. Inspirational. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Girolamo LORUSSO Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Lovely paint job! best Girolamo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 just fantastic. loooks great. great work. cannot waot to see decals on :-):-):-):-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 (edited) Hello! Thank you guys!!! ;^) Mario, Time for applying decals!! :rolleyes:/> I used trumpeter stencils and Linden hills markings. I worked them with Mr Mark Softer. It helps them to stick in the lines and rivets. After that, I sprayed several layers of satin varnish in order to seal them and to erase the step due to the film. Then each decal is "sanded" with 1800 and 2400 grade Micromesh. The step is almost not visible anymore. Now we can start the weathering on the decals. It begins with a drybrush with white oil paint. Then a a very diluted coat of light blue is airbrushed in order to "seal" the decal in the camo feel free to leave comments ;^) Rom Edited July 31, 2013 by rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Wow great work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Wow. One of the most impressive paint jobs I have ever seen. It is very informative also, thank you. What is your gloss varnish? I assume you wet sanded the varnish, is that right? The sheen is very nice. I want to try this with cured future, but I am not sure how it would hold up. Also, do you have a a video or something of your chipping technique? I can imagine what you are doing, but it would be great to see how much lacquer thinner you use to soften the paint, how you apply the cotton swab etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Thank you guys! Janissary, - I here used Microscale gloss varnish. I sprayed several layers. You can also use Future. The result is quite the same. I used it on my Sufa. - Yes I wet sanded the varnish coat. I used the "cloth" micromesh. There is no real technique here... just start with rough grade as 2400, then every higher grades. Between each grade, I wipe the wet residues with paper towel. At the end with 12000 grade, you get the shiny effect. - As for the chipping technique, I have no video or so... But it is quite simple. I dipped the cotton swab in thinner, then the excess is removed on a paper towel. The cotton swab is then rolled (not rubbed) on the surface. The paint is now affected and fragile and you can scratch it with a toothpick. ;^) Cheers!! Rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Really amazing work with blending the decals into the faded look...top notch rebuild... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 one of best painting finishes i ever saw great!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Wow, the paint coating is a work of art, outstanding! Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JesniF-16 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Wow. This makeover is alive & kicking butt!!! Awesome work :worship:/> /Jesse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spad Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 You're really doing a great job of restructuring. The paint is very convincing and I'm sure with washing it will be wonder :thumbsup:/> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Hello! Thank you guys!!! glad you like it! After one more coat of varnish above weathered decals I applied the wash. I used "Gris de payne" oil paint thinned down with "white spirit" (turpentine??) It is a very dark blue, so it matches well the flanker colors. The wash is applied with a small brush and wiped out with a paper cloth after about 10 minutes of drying. Weathering process is not yet finished. Local brown washes will be applied. Cheers! Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Hello, Alongside with the one of my friend: bye! Rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunBD Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Amazing paint job, love the weathering! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Der Grüne Punkt Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 It's a very impressive work, congratulations! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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