tamiya compound on canopies

[HOKUM52]

Hi i am new to using tamiya compound to make my canopies clear and shiny.

The main reason ive bought it is that I have seen it used to make canopies clear again even after sanding, but before i use it on a model i care about i thought id trial it on a canopy from an old model which i use to test stuff on.

So i roughed up the canopy with some 600 tamiya sandpaper as you would if you were blending it to fit the model. I currently only have 320,400,600,1500 and 2000 grade tamiya sandpapers, tamiya applicator cloths and all three compounds grades.

My question is, is 2000 grade paper high enough to make the canopy ready for applying the compound on?(im guessing not) And how do you use the compound, as in do you leave it on for a while etc?

i find it ironic that my profile caption says canopy polisher!!

Edited May 8, 2013 by HOKUM52

[Tomcat-Lover]

I use the Tamiya compound "super fine" for polishing my canopies. I use a 2400 grade paper to start off and then gradually go to 12000 grade paper. I use micro mesh sand paper from micro mark. When I am done with the canopy, I use to use future and that works great but I think that I saw someone using Tamiya superfine compound to polish their canopies and I tried and it comes out looking very nice. Now when I apply the compound it will leave it on for a minute or two and then I wipe the canopy. But to answer your question, I don't think that 2000 grade paper will do you justice because it will still show the marks that the sanpaper leaves. I think that you should start off with 2000 grade paper and then go thru the stages until you get to 12000 paper. I usually start off with 2400, then 3200, then 4800 then 6000 then 8000 and then 12000. That works for me.

[ChippyWho]

A cheapo nail buffing/polishing stick from your local pharmacy will also make short work of preparation for Tamiya compound. I have four-grit and two-grit examples -maybe not as refined as Micro-Mesh, but similar to Master Caster's Miracle Polisher set: if you've tried one of those you'll know how well they work!

[Crazy Snap Captain]

A cheapo nail buffing/polishing stick from your local pharmacy will also make short work of preparation for Tamiya compound. I have four-grit and two-grit examples -maybe not as refined as Micro-Mesh, but similar to Master Caster's Miracle Polisher set: if you've tried one of those you'll know how well they work! :thumbsup:/>

+ 1. Just don't tell your wife you took hers.

[HOKUM52]

Thanks for your replies guys. I want to take a look at both options. Say if i were to go down tomcat lover's route where or what modelling brands sell these high grades? (2400,3200, 4800, 6000, 8000 and 12000)

one other thing, i keep reading about wet sanding. whats that about or is that no use here/

Edited May 10, 2013 by HOKUM52

[ChippyWho]

Thanks for your replies guys. I want to take a look at both options. Say if i were to go down tomcat lover's route where or what modelling brands sell these high grades? (2400,3200, 4800, 6000, 8000 and 12000)

one other thing, i keep reading about wet sanding. whats that about or is that no use here/

Broadly, wet sanding keeps dust and particulates under control (vital if dealing with resin items, PUR dust is great for harpooning lung tissue and mesothelioma-type grief). It will also lubricate the surface to some extent, = more sanding, less grinding. Micro Mesh is recommended for wet use. Amazon usually have it, I would guess eBay will also -these are likely to land you a good price. Otherwise, Sprue Bros or other usual suspects...?

[balls47]

A cheapo nail buffing/polishing stick from your local pharmacy will also make short work of preparation for Tamiya compound. I have four-grit and two-grit examples -maybe not as refined as Micro-Mesh, but similar to Master Caster's Miracle Polisher set: if you've tried one of those you'll know how well they work! :thumbsup:/>

+2 - Sometimes you'll get funny looks when your in the ladies aisle and from the cash register attendant. Just wear something "manly!"

[HOKUM52]

thanks again guys but im a little confused now to at what point do do i stop using dry sandpaper to using micromesh. would a grade like 2400 and 3200 still be sandpaper or that high would they be micromesh?

sorry for all the questions im nearly done!

i just found this. if you scroll down are these ideal for making my canopy clear agian. they say micro mesh but they dont look like cloths as such, and they are quite expensive?

http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=48_62

regards

Pat

Edited May 11, 2013 by HOKUM52

[-Neu-]

It might be a bit of overkill, but I also put down an an application of future after, giving the canopy a nice shine and hiding any potential issues (not that you would have any)

[ChippyWho]

thanks again guys but im a little confused now to at what point do do i stop using dry sandpaper to using micromesh. would a grade like 2400 and 3200 still be sandpaper or that high would they be micromesh?

sorry for all the questions im nearly done!

i just found this. if you scroll down are these ideal for making my canopy clear agian. they say micro mesh but they dont look like cloths as such, and they are quite expensive?

http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=48_62

regards

Pat

The first part of that is tough to answer -it will depend on how trashed the clear material is! However, it is probably easier to actually do than explain; you'll most likely be able to tell when you get far enough with each stage.

True Micro Mesh (which appears to be what you found at Hiroboy) is described by its maker as a 'cushioned abrasive'. As such, it has little in common with regular sandpaper. It handles like a thick fabric, and has a sort of spongy layer behind the abrasive surface to protect that surface in use. It must be washed thoroughly after use for obvious reasons. Usually, the rectangular pieces in sets sold at retail level are quite small (around 4-5 inches per side), so you need to look after them!

Also, some folk recommend using successive grades at right-angle strokes to the previous one for most efficient polishing.

I do have some in a drawer somewhere, but think it's over-rated for restoring clear parts. Nail buffer, Tamya polishes and a Future/Klear bath should sort out any recoverable transparencies.

If you are polishing something in prep for say, an Alclad paint job, then Micro Mesh is pretty much essential.

HTH.

Edited May 11, 2013 by ChippyWho

[Rdrunner]

Here's what I bought and has worked out great Evilbay

HTH

Ken