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Mighty 1:32 Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle


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Great job Jesse, the GBU-12's and CAP-9 really look amazing, very well done. I know what you mean about all these extra parts being "mini models". That's what I went thru with my 1/18th Tomcat parts. Keep up the great work and I'm looking forward to your next update.

Steve

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Jesse,

Those GBU's are pure weapons p0rn! Amazing craftsmanship! I would happily buy some of those from you if you went into production. Awesome...

Thanks Andrew! Resin casting is a science and if yer not efficient you will lose lots of money... I will keep hoping that someone will create a worthy GBU-12 rolleyes.gif

Great work on those GBU-12s, Jesse! They really look good. In my opinion, the best GBU-12 currently available is that in the Academy Viper. It's really good, but there's much room for improvement. You're right--we really need these in the aftermarket with all the extra detail added for use lazy guys!

Keep up the great work!

Jake

Thanks Jake! Yeah, from the pics I've seen the Academy pieces need some work as well... And yes I fall into the "lazy guy" category too evil-laughter.gif

Sweet training rounds! biggrin.gif

Casting your own parts now are we? Getting advanced, Awesome!

Thanks Janne! Yes this modeling bit seems to be getting way out of control hmmm.gif

Hey Jess. First of all, Great job on those bombs and the CATM-9. The mottled blue bodies are really nice looking and the thinned fins add a large measure of realism. I really admire you giving the resin trick a try and, based upon your experience, I likely won't be giving it a try any time soon! If you had trouble casting resin, I will for sure and I don't need any more modeling headaches. I crash and burn with experiments enough already.

I do have one suggestion and it's not about your modeling. If you think you'll ever make a Legacy Hornet in the future, buy the 1/32 Academy F/A-18 kit, if for no other reason than the kit is FULL of good looking ordnance. Here's what I found is including from a website:

1 x AAS-38 Laser Designator pod

1 x ASQ-173 Laser Detector/Tracker pod

2 x AIM-7F/M Sparrows (I used a few of these for the sensor eyes on my Hog)

6 x AIM-9L/M Sidewinders (w/launch rails)

2 x AIM-120A AMRAAMs

2 x AGM-84D/E Harpoon/ SLAM

4 x AGM-65 Maverick missiles (w/launch rails)

4 x AGM-88 HARM w/LAU-118 launch rail adapter

8 x Mk.82 500lb bombs with your choice of normal low-drag fins or Snakeye high drag fins

2 x GBU-10 Paveway II Laser-Guided Bombs

2 x GBU-24 Paveway III Laser-Guided Bombs

2 x GBU-32 1000lb JDAM smart bombs

2 x Twin AIM-9/ AIM-120 missile rail adapters

4 x Vertical Ejector Racks (VERs)

4 x External Fuel Tanks

While some of this stuff is Hornet specific, many parts are fairly universal like the Sidewinders, Mavericks, Sparrows, AIM-120 and Mk.82 bombs. All of the parts are quite good, so you are starting at a higher level than with the Trumpeter stuff before you make modifications like thinning the fins, etc. I've made two of these kits, so my spare bomb and missile stash is HUGE without buying anything else.

Thanks for the list Chuck! I will definitely have to pick up a Legacy Hornet or 3... Too bad the F-16CG kit is good for weapons and stencils, but bad for the Viper itself....

Great work! keep it going jaw-dropping.gif

Thanks black widow 271.gif

Great job Jesse, the GBU-12's and CAP-9 really look amazing, very well done. I know what you mean about all these extra parts being "mini models". That's what I went thru with my 1/18th Tomcat parts. Keep up the great work and I'm looking forward to your next update.

Steve

Hey Steve, good to hear from you... I'm really thinking about building a straight up OOB kit after this one 70.gif

Thanks again guys

/Jesse

Edited by JesniF-16
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Hey Jess. First of all, Great job on those bombs and the CATM-9. The mottled blue bodies are really nice looking and the thinned fins add a large measure of realism. I really admire you giving the resin trick a try and, based upon your experience, I likely won't be giving it a try any time soon! If you had trouble casting resin, I will for sure and I don't need any more modeling headaches. I crash and burn with experiments enough already.

I do have one suggestion and it's not about your modeling. If you think you'll ever make a Legacy Hornet in the future, buy the 1/32 Academy F/A-18 kit, if for no other reason than the kit is FULL of good looking ordnance. Here's what I found is including from a website:

1 x AAS-38 Laser Designator pod

1 x ASQ-173 Laser Detector/Tracker pod

2 x AIM-7F/M Sparrows (I used a few of these for the sensor eyes on my Hog)

6 x AIM-9L/M Sidewinders (w/launch rails)

2 x AIM-120A AMRAAMs

2 x AGM-84D/E Harpoon/ SLAM

4 x AGM-65 Maverick missiles (w/launch rails)

4 x AGM-88 HARM w/LAU-118 launch rail adapter

8 x Mk.82 500lb bombs with your choice of normal low-drag fins or Snakeye high drag fins

2 x GBU-10 Paveway II Laser-Guided Bombs

2 x GBU-24 Paveway III Laser-Guided Bombs

2 x GBU-32 1000lb JDAM smart bombs

2 x Twin AIM-9/ AIM-120 missile rail adapters

4 x Vertical Ejector Racks (VERs)

4 x External Fuel Tanks

While some of this stuff is Hornet specific, many parts are fairly universal like the Sidewinders, Mavericks, Sparrows, AIM-120 and Mk.82 bombs. All of the parts are quite good, so you are starting at a higher level than with the Trumpeter stuff before you make modifications like thinning the fins, etc. I've made two of these kits, so my spare bomb and missile stash is HUGE without buying anything else.

Chuck and Jake are correct, Not only are the Stores excellent, but if a builder were building a "C" hornet, there are many other parts that are excellent, two being the HOTAS Throttle set and the extra control sticks. These are just gorgeous little gems, and are perfect if you are building a MSIP or later F-15C or a Mudhen, or the Trumpy Superbug. The really nice part is that whether you buy the Academy Viper or Hornet, each comes with a complete set of decals for the stores in each kit.

Jesse, the bombs and missiles look fantastic! Glad to help, I knew you wold put them to very good use. I can't way to see what you do with the pods.

Keep up the great work, Gary

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The ordnance looks awesome!

Thanks for the update 377.gif/> .

Thanks buddy 377.gif

Great work on the Paveways! Really like the way the clear-yellow seeker domes worked out, I will need a more detailed tutorial on those at some point.

271.gif

Marcel

Hiya Marcel thanks for commenting! I shoulda taken more time to explain... Although, I thought that I got the idea from one of yer fabulous builds hmmm.gif I simply took a piece of clear sprue and heated it over a candle til it starts to ball up on the tip... Then quickly shove it through the appropriate sized hole on yer template. I think I got lucky because my circle template/ruler is is a tad thicker (1mm), which makes a nice "bulbous" shape. Be sure to pull it out quickly otherwise you will not get it back out of the template!!!! The trickiest part is to cut the clear part off square, it may take a few tries but eventually you will get some nice straight pieces using a nice thin razor saw... I think I will post some pics tomorrow. Cheers.

Chuck and Jake are correct, Not only are the Stores excellent, but if a builder were building a "C" hornet, there are many other parts that are excellent, two being the HOTAS Throttle set and the extra control sticks. These are just gorgeous little gems, and are perfect if you are building a MSIP or later F-15C or a Mudhen, or the Trumpy Superbug. The really nice part is that whether you buy the Academy Viper or Hornet, each comes with a complete set of decals for the stores in each kit.

Jesse, the bombs and missiles look fantastic! Glad to help, I knew you wold put them to very good use. I can't way to see what you do with the pods.

Keep up the great work, Gary

Thank you Gary, I will be looking at the pods tomorrow after a good nights rest... Thank goodness these Academy kits are readily available wink.gif

Great build..yes your right there is a 1:32 in all of us somehwere!!

Thanks RSpreckley! I still am shocked by the size of the parts compared to 48th... which is why it's so much fun biggrin.gif

/Jesse

Edited by JesniF-16
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Hey fellas, this isn't an update, but a rather quick tutorial... Someone asked about how to make the clear lens for the GBU-12 so I thought I'd take a minute to share.

To start, you'll need a steel circle template of sorts, mine is about 1mm thick which adds to getting a better result IMHO. Then the piece of clear sprue, a razor saw and a flame of some sort, I prefer a candle.

7e496ce8-ae26-4e61-a917-8a6a86303f3a_zps5126476e.jpg

First, just heat the tip of the clear sprue until it starts to melt or ball up a smidge.

7d247d85-423f-43fb-b0f3-068fdc500bd0_zps248dc029.jpg

Next, after it's heated, quickly push it through the correct hole on your template. Pull it out after about 2 seconds otherwise it may get stuck in there when it cools.

cf787d91-fef1-4487-b082-e2033acc5cf4_zpsec4a87a3.jpg

Here's the parts when finished. At this point you could reshape the lens, then rebuff if you choose to.

16b80dcb-7cd5-42cf-a633-8c86036d6940_zpsf5de5605.jpg

This is the tricky part... Try and cut the part off square. It may take a few extra tries, but eventually you will have parts you can utilize. Simply use some thin cement to mount the part if you are using a styrene missile or bomb.

003a8560-d604-4d1b-a778-958e12217e56_zps4d274c98.jpg

And here is my "helper"... It's hard to get any work out of him, but he'll have to do biggrin.gif His name is Chewy, short for Chewbacca. Although an Ewok name might have been more fitting rofl.gif

65e4ac2c-f61d-454b-b8b1-6630f7054be0_zps696908e6.jpg

/Jesse

Edited by JesniF-16
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Thank you Josh & Chuck! Josh I'd like to see Gordito w00t.gif

Thanks a lot for the tutorial, Jesse.

Could you tell me where did you get that template? Here I can only find plastic ones and I'm pretty sure they would melt If I'd try something like this.

Kind regards, Sven.

Hey Sven, you're welcome buddy! This ruler looks just like mine:

Template/Ebay

/Jesse

Edited by JesniF-16
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Hey fellas, this isn't an update, but a rather quick tutorial... Someone asked about how to make the clear lens for the GBU-12 so I thought I'd take a minute to share.

To start, you'll need a steel circle template of sorts, mine is about 1mm thick which adds to getting a better result IMHO. Then the piece of clear sprue, a razor saw and a flame of some sort, I prefer a candle.

7e496ce8-ae26-4e61-a917-8a6a86303f3a_zps5126476e.jpg

First, just heat the tip of the clear sprue until it starts to melt or ball up a smidge.

7d247d85-423f-43fb-b0f3-068fdc500bd0_zps248dc029.jpg

Next, after it's heated, quickly push it through the correct hole on your template. Pull it out after about 2 seconds otherwise it may get stuck in there when it cools.

cf787d91-fef1-4487-b082-e2033acc5cf4_zpsec4a87a3.jpg

Here's the parts when finished. At this point you could reshape the lens, then rebuff if you choose to.

16b80dcb-7cd5-42cf-a633-8c86036d6940_zpsf5de5605.jpg

This is the tricky part... Try and cut the part off square. It may take a few extra tries, but eventually you will have parts you can utilize. Simply use some thin cement to mount the part if you are using a styrene missile or bomb.

003a8560-d604-4d1b-a778-958e12217e56_zps4d274c98.jpg

And here is my "helper"... It's hard to get any work out of him, but he'll have to do biggrin.gif His name is Chewy, short for Chewbacca. Although an Ewok name might have been more fitting rofl.gif

65e4ac2c-f61d-454b-b8b1-6630f7054be0_zps696908e6.jpg

/Jesse

Hey Jesse I've used this same method for making hud lenses and nav lights. You can make a template out of thick styrene to level it the base and get a clearer lens. Drill a hole around the same diameter as the size of the part you're using, and depth around the length you want the part to be-not all the way through the plastic. Then in the center of the hole drill a slightly smaller hole. Roughly the size of a safety pin all the way through the plastic(I'll explain this in a moment) next stick your part in the hole and sand it till it's flush with the the plastic. Gradually increase grit until it's clear again. Here's where the small hole comes in. Stick a needle through te back side if the template (small hole) to pop the part out. Provided you drill a straight hole it should be level when you pop the part out. Plus this saves you the annoyance a of making a part cutting , making it again over and over till you finally get one right. Hope this helps! Btw looking awesome!!!

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You're very welcome Marcel and yes Chewy is the best friend I ever had!

Thanks for sharing Linus! That makes sense. That way you can polish the end that's flush as well... Perfect solution man 70.gif

/Jesse

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  • 4 months later...

Hi Jesse,

Long time, no see.

How'd this build end up? Did you finish your big Eagle?

Cheers.

Thanks for asking Guy, great to hear from you and I hope it's all good on the other side of the pond... The answer to yer question is "no"... I'm really struggling to find any time for the Big Bird, the good news is that I 've not lost the will to build the model!!! I more or less work as an independent specialty piping welder through a union hiring hall. I began work at the oil refinery back in February and I had hoped to have the summer off... they asked me to work the summer through the fall as they are spending lots of money this year... so I'm spending 2 weeks at home with my family, then I will head back out and finish work around mid October or so. I've tried to bring my modeling gear to the apartment near the job site, but after putting in 10-12 hour shifts, I'm afraid that i just don't have the energy to model dry.gif How bout yer Big C? Still a work in progress?

/Jesse

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Thanks for asking Guy, great to hear from you and I hope it's all good on the other side of the pond... The answer to yer question is "no"... I'm really struggling to find any time for the Big Bird, the good news is that I 've not lost the will to build the model!!! I more or less work as an independent specialty piping welder through a union hiring hall. I began work at the oil refinery back in February and I had hoped to have the summer off... they asked me to work the summer through the fall as they are spending lots of money this year... so I'm spending 2 weeks at home with my family, then I will head back out and finish work around mid October or so. I've tried to bring my modeling gear to the apartment near the job site, but after putting in 10-12 hour shifts, I'm afraid that i just don't have the energy to model dry.gif How bout yer Big C? Still a work in progress?

/Jesse

Absolutely.

Regarding work: 'Get while the gettin's good'.

It sounds like you're one-man band pipe welder vs an in-house 8-hrs-a-day-5-days-a-week pipe welder. Which means you rely on contract-to-contract business.

The model isn't going anywhere; It'll be there when you're ready to resume the build. And it's great that you still have modeling passion.

'Absence makes a heart grow fonder' wink.gif .

Thanks for updating us on your build and, more importantly, see you in October 70.gif !

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Hey Check Six, thanks for checking in... Yep, and the oil refineries are like ATM's that never run out of cash :evil-laughter:/> LOL, gotta keep money flowing to the modeling slush fund!

/Jesse

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