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JesniF-16

Mighty 1:32 Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle

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Hi Jesse,

Your build looks awesome. I have to apologize for not commenting earlier but this is the first time I've looked at the whole thing. The detailing you're doing is top notch and your painting skills aren't bad either ;). I was looking at your exhausts and I feel the suggestions you received really paid off, especially in regards to the gold paint. If those exhaust cans were mine I would probably call them done but since you welcome advice openly then I will give my two cents worth. The only suggestion I could provide would be to to maybe give a few of the outer petals on the burner cans a slightly different shade so that there isn't so much uniformity. I'm sure you've noticed this condition on many jets before although I can't say I've seen this on F-15's as I'm no expert on that bird. I have seen it on Tomcats and Hornets to name a few. If you have done this and I just missed it or if F-15's don't usually exhibit this condition then take my suggestion with a grain of salt. As I said previously, if they were mine I would have called them done. Anyway, great job and I'll be awaiting more updates.

Elmo

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Wowzer, those nozzles look simply perfect.... flawless detailing and incredibly realistic painting!

70.gif

Marcel

Thank you very much Marcel, you are too kind smile.gif

Hi Jesse,

Your build looks awesome. I have to apologize for not commenting earlier but this is the first time I've looked at the whole thing. The detailing you're doing is top notch and your painting skills aren't bad either wink.gif. I was looking at your exhausts and I feel the suggestions you received really paid off, especially in regards to the gold paint. If those exhaust cans were mine I would probably call them done but since you welcome advice openly then I will give my two cents worth. The only suggestion I could provide would be to to maybe give a few of the outer petals on the burner cans a slightly different shade so that there isn't so much uniformity. I'm sure you've noticed this condition on many jets before although I can't say I've seen this on F-15's as I'm no expert on that bird. I have seen it on Tomcats and Hornets to name a few. If you have done this and I just missed it or if F-15's don't usually exhibit this condition then take my suggestion with a grain of salt. As I said previously, if they were mine I would have called them done. Anyway, great job and I'll be awaiting more updates.

Elmo

Hi Elmo, thanks for yer response! I agree with your suggestion about adding another shade in a very subtle form to random petals.... So far the base color would be Alclad steel and the raised petals were hand painted with aluminum/copper mixture.... I will add a shade of aluminum to random petals when it comes time to install the exhausts! Thanks for your advice it means a lot coming from you! BTW, I am glued to yer Intruder build, I can't comment because yer work leaves me speechless... I really mean it!!!

Time for a small update guys and gals! I have been spending more time enjoying the gorgeous weather in the past few weeks, but I did manage to get a small amount of work done. To be honest I would say 75% of my bench time involves studying reference pics rather than actual building.... This is because I know absolute squat about the Strike Eagle, but I am learning quickly.

Starting with the front IP... not much to add here. I'm using the kits cockpit since there is no other good option available! Mike Grant decals were used for the instruments. The kit decals were used for the displays which I'm not real fond of, but this jet will be taxiing for takeoff so the screens must be lit up :rolleyes:/> I did tone the screens down with some coats of clear green since the kit decals were a bit too LOUD!

5cd32916-6356-4b15-9514-c09f4a05217d_zpsbd14f74c.jpg

I did purchase the Eduard interior set and have only used the pull handles since the color etch looks really flat and the colors are just way to bright! Also note that I did add the u/c retraction lever and a couple of small yellow/black striped panels accordingly to the real deal.

fa8d3355-477a-4793-adc7-c3b188d05d64_zps10eb4046.jpg

Here's the rear IP.... I did add the ejection mode panel and handle to the right of the UFC. I did also add the caution/warning light panels above the MPD screens.

07f4ef35-e1e9-4930-8291-9e2ced98cdf6_zps7a0f5079.jpg

If you look at Guy Wilson's build, notice that he even added the labels for all of the switches and handles.... This is a task that i am not about to tackle, sorry guys! The more I work on this Mudhen, I can appreciate all the details that Guy added to his Mudhen some years ago, just amazing work and craftsmanship on his part! :cheers:/>

639584f0-9e4a-4bd7-b0cc-763df8763289_zps4b34458c.jpg

I started adding some details to the tub using some Eduard PE. I did add the little box near the oxygen hose attachments using some spare metal from the leftover etch frets... I did make an attempt to scratch the throttle levers that are left out completely. They are better than nothing, but I'm not about to give you a "close-up" dry.gif The pilots will have their mits covering most of the throttle handles anyway!!! The cloudy mess on the backboard was from the CA de-bonding agent used to clean up a boo boo :whistle:/>

9ba9b313-e257-483c-863a-bdc4488ef7e2_zpsfda744bb.jpg

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When adding pilots to your build it is essential to dry fit all of it before painting and detailing. This is how my guys will be posed when it's all said and done. This is just the beginning when it comes to adding details. I removed the raised detail on the seats in order to add wiring and tie-downs. There is plenty of wiring that need to be added to the right of the pilots seat up to the WSO coaming. Oxygen hoses and seatbelts will be added accordingly as well. As you can see this is going to be a lot of work!

G9K0VtQ.jpg

Another shot with the IP's temporary fit-up. All in all Tamiya did a great job with the tub since it's all pretty accurate right OOB!

xnpRkBS.jpg

I'm glad that I researched Guy's thread when dealing with the WSO bang seat. If you are doing a closed canopy, the rear bang seat will hit the canopy. Therefore I took some plastic from the bottom of the seat to make it work. Here ya go, no problems now!

UynJ9Uu.jpg

Not a whole lotta progress, but I did my share of research so hopefully I can make some good progress in the days to come! I plan to paint the pilots and tub before adding wires and hoses and seatbelts. The ejection seats will get detailed before painting. That's the theory anyway :woot.gif:/> Thanks for checking in :cheers:/>

/Jesse

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p6iPVI3.jpg

Edited by JesniF-16
replace photobucket images

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Jesse,

The IP's look amazing and the attention to detail really makes them stand out. I'm really enjoying your build as I can appreciate and relate to all the pre-build effort that goes into a build like yours. Good luck on the rest of the build and keep up the great work.

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Jesse, great work. The 1/32 Eagles look so impressive, and you're doing a fantastic job on this beast.

Jesse, You are correct, both of those air wings are the -229 motors.

The jets on the TwoBobs sheet from Mountain Home are -220 jets. They have done quite a bit of jet swapping at Mountain Home, so the original 391st jets on that sheet went up to Alaska in 2003, where they stayed until 2006-2007. They are now back at Mountain Home with the 389th. The 391st now has -229 jets.

Jake

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Great work as usual Jesse! Really nice IP's. I'm jealous.

Question/comment. It appears the clear canopy must be glued to a grey plastic frame (?), just like the Tamiya F-4 and F-14 kits, which presents a bit of a problem. If you just use ordinary clear glue, no matter what kind, the bond will never be perfectly uniform and you will be able to see light colored grey glue imperfections from above in a "fiber-optic" kind of way. As a matter of fact, an F-14D build I made a few years ago was given a deduction at a model contest for this very same reason, even though there really is no "glue mark" when viewed from the sides. There's no arguing that it's real, but how the heck do you avoid it?

I don't have the perfect solution, but I did find that if the canopy and or frame joins were made black, this join imperfection is almost invisible. You can either paint the edges black and use some sort of clear plastic cement other than regular cement, or you might give my black felt pen trick I used on my F-4E a try. I "painted" the bottom edge of the clear plastic with the felt pen, then oozed Tamiya Extra Thin cement into the gap via capillary action to distribute the glue along the seam. It worked very well and the ink from the felt pen dissolved into the glue, creating a "black thin glue", if you will. This method is also super dangerous, because any slip with the Tamiya cement = a glue mark disaster on the canopy, so you have to be super careful. If you use some of the other canopy friendly cements like white glue, I'm not sure of the overall strength, especially on such a large canopy.

The whitish marks on an old F-4J build and my F-4E can be found here, which might explain the above a little clearer:

F-4E build

I only point out the above as a heads up, so you may find a better solution on your own- or maybe somebody else will suggest an alternative. Good luck!

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This is looking like the real thing jesse. I'm impressed. Great work so far!!

Patrick

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wow... Jesse, it looks amazing, hope sse your build of the T-45 that you win on the Kitmaniac.com contest be build soon

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If I am not intruding, I have screwed up a few of these canopies and frames and found the hard way a couple of methods that work. On the F-15 canopy, there is a small frame around the edge of the clear, but you do get the problem you describe Chuck with the gray edge showing unless you color it with sharpie or other marker. Never tried the colored glue you suggest but that sounds neat. I now use either 5 min epoxy or the very thin 10-25 second cure time foam safe super glue. I used the super glue on the Kadena Eagle

On the picture below, Foam Safe Super Glue was uses to attache the rear canopy to the deck and as filler, The roll hoop frame at the front of the rear canopy, The front canopy, and a scatch built roll hoop frame inside of the front canopy. you can see that no fogging or problems of any kind,( Other than the nut behind the camera needs to learn how to use a camera!)

P6070085_zps41ae83e4.jpg

Now with the family model, the frame is real flimsy and has a tendency to twist. DO NOT CUT OUT THE CONNECTING TREE!!!!!!! Which you have already done, but no worries!! I found it is very easy to get the glass mounted and looking great, only to be disappointed afterwards to find the frame is just too narrow to cover the cockpit opening leaving the edge of the seal area showing. It seem the natural tendency of the rails is to angle in slightly and twist . This may really be a potential issue for you Jesse since your bird will have the lid closed. You may want to think about taping the frame to the fuselage when you are ready to glue the glass on so that every thing fits right. I know I sound like I am back on pain killers. One nice thing I like about the foam safe super glue is you can just hit a few key spots with the glue and accelerator, then use the thin tamiya model glue or other glue of choice to seal/fill the seam. If you get the stuff on the glass, it flakes off just like reg SG on any other plastic and leaves no marks. Just a little finish polish and it is fixed. I used all Super Glue on the above picture and I was real happy with how it duplicated a uniform seal. Hope this helps.

Jesse, Looking really good on the IP's.

Edited by ghatherly

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Jesse,

The IP's look amazing and the attention to detail really makes them stand out. I'm really enjoying your build as I can appreciate and relate to all the pre-build effort that goes into a build like yours. Good luck on the rest of the build and keep up the great work.

Elmo, you are too kind! As I enjoy yer in depth builds too, very inspiring work you do... And I hate it when you say it just takes patience because you my friend have some big time talent, which is why yer build is a "masterpiece"!

The cockpit and consoles are unreal. Great work.

Thanks NavyPhantoms, but i was hoping the IP's would appear to be "real" :P/>

Jesse, great work. The 1/32 Eagles look so impressive, and you're doing a fantastic job on this beast.

The jets on the TwoBobs sheet from Mountain Home are -220 jets. They have done quite a bit of jet swapping at Mountain Home, so the original 391st jets on that sheet went up to Alaska in 2003, where they stayed until 2006-2007. They are now back at Mountain Home with the 389th. The 391st now has -229 jets.

Jake

Thanks Jake! This is really helpful even though I'm not sure if i will be doing the 391st scheme yet.... but it is probable. I really want to build the Seymour Johnson bird that Chris over at Z5 has worked on 86-0186, but i haven't seen the Lancers emblem on any decal sheets. It was the 4th Strike Eagle built.

Great work as usual Jesse! Really nice IP's. I'm jealous.

Question/comment. It appears the clear canopy must be glued to a grey plastic frame (?), just like the Tamiya F-4 and F-14 kits, which presents a bit of a problem. If you just use ordinary clear glue, no matter what kind, the bond will never be perfectly uniform and you will be able to see light colored grey glue imperfections from above in a "fiber-optic" kind of way. As a matter of fact, an F-14D build I made a few years ago was given a deduction at a model contest for this very same reason, even though there really is no "glue mark" when viewed from the sides. There's no arguing that it's real, but how the heck do you avoid it?

I don't have the perfect solution, but I did find that if the canopy and or frame joins were made black, this join imperfection is almost invisible. You can either paint the edges black and use some sort of clear plastic cement other than regular cement, or you might give my black felt pen trick I used on my F-4E a try. I "painted" the bottom edge of the clear plastic with the felt pen, then oozed Tamiya Extra Thin cement into the gap via capillary action to distribute the glue along the seam. It worked very well and the ink from the felt pen dissolved into the glue, creating a "black thin glue", if you will. This method is also super dangerous, because any slip with the Tamiya cement = a glue mark disaster on the canopy, so you have to be super careful. If you use some of the other canopy friendly cements like white glue, I'm not sure of the overall strength, especially on such a large canopy.

The whitish marks on an old F-4J build and my F-4E can be found here, which might explain the above a little clearer:

F-4E build

I only point out the above as a heads up, so you may find a better solution on your own- or maybe somebody else will suggest an alternative. Good luck!

Thanks Chuck! Yes it is just like your Tamiya big birds, seriously this is a great catch by you! I would have never thunk of it... I always use tamiya thin cement on canopies with no fogging issues. Sooo, I will be sure to paint the edge with a black sharpie before gluing :thumbsup:/> You are simply awesome buddy!!!!

This is looking like the real thing jesse. I'm impressed. Great work so far!!

Patrick

Thanks Patrick, glad I can impress a Strike Eagle guru like yerself :)/>

wow... Jesse, it looks amazing, hope sse your build of the T-45 that you win on the Kitmaniac.com contest be build soon

Hey Vini, thanks my friend.... I'm afraid the T-45 will have to wait, I am very disciplined when it comes to finishing one project before starting another dry.gif

Jesse, the IP's look great, nice work!

Cheers,

Marcel

Hey Marcel, thanks man, looking forward to your next build.... In fact I can't wait :thumbsup:/>

If I am not intruding, I have screwed up a few of these canopies and frames and found the hard way a couple of methods that work. On the F-15 canopy, there is a small frame around the edge of the clear, but you do get the problem you describe Chuck with the gray edge showing unless you color it with sharpie or other marker. Never tried the colored glue you suggest but that sounds neat. I now use either 5 min epoxy or the very thin 10-25 second cure time foam safe super glue. I used the super glue on the Kadena Eagle

On the picture below, Foam Safe Super Glue was uses to attache the rear canopy to the deck and as filler, The roll hoop frame at the front of the rear canopy, The front canopy, and a scatch built roll hoop frame inside of the front canopy. you can see that no fogging or problems of any kind,( Other than the nut behind the camera needs to learn how to use a camera!)

P6070085_zps41ae83e4.jpg

Now with the family model, the frame is real flimsy and has a tendency to twist. DO NOT CUT OUT THE CONNECTING TREE!!!!!!! Which you have already done, but no worries!! I found it is very easy to get the glass mounted and looking great, only to be disappointed afterwards to find the frame is just too narrow to cover the cockpit opening leaving the edge of the seal area showing. It seem the natural tendency of the rails is to angle in slightly and twist . This may really be a potential issue for you Jesse since your bird will have the lid closed. You may want to think about taping the frame to the fuselage when you are ready to glue the glass on so that every thing fits right. I know I sound like I am back on pain killers. One nice thing I like about the foam safe super glue is you can just hit a few key spots with the glue and accelerator, then use the thin tamiya model glue or other glue of choice to seal/fill the seam. If you get the stuff on the glass, it flakes off just like reg SG on any other plastic and leaves no marks. Just a little finish polish and it is fixed. I used all Super Glue on the above picture and I was real happy with how it duplicated a uniform seal. Hope this helps.

Jesse, Looking really good on the IP's.

Thanks for taking the time to address your pitfalls and success with the issue at hand. I think I will try Chuck's method with the Sharpie and Tamiya cement. just so you know, i have never had fogging issues using the Tamiya thin cement. That being said, i will be ordering the foam safe super glue for back up. I am always searching for different types of glue to try for different apps :thumbsup:/> I definitely will tape the canopy frame to the fuse before gluing, i really don't want any fit issues after gluing the canopy on. The Strike Eagle does have a frame stiffener between the pilot and the WSO which maybe will add a little more support the the canopy frame... BTW yer canopy looks great man... ya can't beat the Tamiya Eagles, they look superb when finished! Thanks again Gary.

/Jesse

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no problem we keep waiting... nice work on eagle

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I admit that I have been indulging in other summer activities rather than sitting at my workbench, but I decided to show some progress to prove to everyone that the Mudhen still has a heartbeat :rolleyes:/> In my defense, the detailing I have chosen to add to the cockpit is the biggest test of patience a modeler can endure IMHO... There are many deep dark alleys that I've run into, which will make a modeler go insane! The details are very small and even though this is a closed canopy with pilots, I chose to add many details that will never be seen by anyone but the people tuning into my thread (s). If nothing else it is all good practice for me to get better at this hobby.

Here is the pilots control stick... A thin strip of masking tape is wound around copper wire to represent the cable. Also added a couple of buttons to the stick for accuracy.

1272729e-d772-46d7-b3a7-7577f7cf8c44_zpse8988c0a.jpg

The cable goes to nowhere, but this will not be seen once the pilot is in place...

c53c0178-f18d-40e2-8166-65c8ff007219_zps22d0efd8.jpg

In this shot I have started added details to the right of the pilot bang seat.

446bc9b7-f0a8-45ff-9ee6-1c3147947008_zpsc04cb3ee.jpg

2 part Apoxy sculpt was used to represent the sheepskin covers, which I only did the backrest since the pilots will cover most of it. Apoxy sculpt worked fantastic for this as long as you keep it wet, you'll have 2-3 hours of working time :thumbsup:/> Once the covers were molded I took a stiff bristled brush to add the texture...

e9adcb0c-a1d2-49cd-8385-ebddcfc35070_zpsb395b777.jpg

Here the pilots bang seat is completely detailed and ready to paint... The right side is very "busy" and took me a long time to research to get all of the hoses and cables going to the proper places! The cockpit panels still need some TLC and I have already scratched the map lights (not shown) that clip onto the right of the pilot & wizzo...

6a717866-b97a-49e1-bbf0-4a9b1151096f_zps122bed71.jpg

Here's the left side of the bang seat... Nothing much to report here, just haven't added the O2 tank yet, but the tanks are already painted up as well... I did add that thingy on the left mounted to the bulkhead using .010 sheet...

0a4f26f2-fc8c-46c5-83f5-557f4c46dd5d_zps5fd77fb4.jpg

Edited by JesniF-16

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The wizzo's control stick before paint...

c370cfba-9a43-46d0-958e-cc2b39f45e56_zps88128b27.jpg

193b90b5-1a15-4c6a-9bdd-b8292465c32e_zps77f1aa36.jpg

Here the straps for the chutes were added using the Eduard ejection seat PE and also some lead strips...

37667a87-bc62-4202-acd8-0d3f03cf79c1_zps42c7bd4e.jpg

The right side of the WSO bang seat ready for paint...

9e383276-98fb-473c-8790-6905ac4ba9a1_zps5b442762.jpg

8622d672-42f6-4437-942d-304f2d7620bf_zps1226fc62.jpg

Finally the weapons system controls located on both sides of the WSO control panels...

c329ced9-c4e6-478b-a434-8147705778d9_zps9eec4ee0.jpg

107fec4a-fc3f-47e0-a079-849330689904_zps13d5ac37.jpg

I am ecstatic that the seats are ready for paint! It's been a long road to get to this point and hopefully the tub will be ready for paint soon as well!!! I have also painted the rear bulkhead and will post pics next time... So yes the build is still has a faint heartbeat dry.gif Thanks for yer continued interest!

/Jesse

Edited by JesniF-16

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:thumbsup:........sweet. Deep Dark Alleys, sounds like a familiar place. You're doing a great job and remember......live first, this is only a hobby!

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Hi Jesse, I want to encourage you to put all the details in that you want to, even if they don't show very much when the bird is done.  I do *** for the enjoyment and you probably do to for the same reason.  When it is all done, and you know the detail is their, that gives the satisfaction and enjoyment.   Your work if fantastic, keep at it when you can.  Gary

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:jaw-dropping:

Very cool work so far. I have found another guy who raises the bar like Chuck and a few others...

For the landing gear oleos, you mentioned mulling over the idea of using some foil to make them shinier. Have you tried using a metallic silver pen? I use the "Pilot super color extra fine" silver pen for mine. The ink comes out liquid, spreads around the strut nicely, and makes for a naturally glossy metallic look. This pic was taken partway through the process, but shows the metallic silver applied.

image064.jpg

Looking forward to the rest of this.

ALF

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Wow, beautiful detailling on the stick and seat. The two part epoxy method of creating the backrest looks excellent, I will need to try that.

:thumbsup:

Marcel

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70.gif........sweet. Deep Dark Alleys, sounds like a familiar place. You're doing a great job and remember......live first, this is only a hobby!

Thanks Elmo :D/> A great builder once told me "none of my life's greatest days were spent modelling".... I would have to agree with that statement :lol:/>

Hi Jesse, I want to encourage you to put all the details in that you want to, even if they don't show very much when the bird is done.  I do *** for the enjoyment and you probably do to for the same reason.  When it is all done, and you know the detail is their, that gives the satisfaction and enjoyment.   Your work if fantastic, keep at it when you can.  Gary

Thanks a lot Gary! I can't seem to overlook too many details these days.... maybe it's time for an OOB build next :lol:/>

jaw-dropping.gif

Very cool work so far. I have found another guy who raises the bar like Chuck and a few others...

For the landing gear oleos, you mentioned mulling over the idea of using some foil to make them shinier. Have you tried using a metallic silver pen? I use the "Pilot super color extra fine" silver pen for mine. The ink comes out liquid, spreads around the strut nicely, and makes for a naturally glossy metallic look.

Thanks for the compliments ALF18 :)/> Your oleos look amazing! I will definitely give it a try :thumbsup:/>

Wow, beautiful detailling on the stick and seat. The two part epoxy method of creating the backrest looks excellent, I will need to try that.

70.gif

Marcel

Thanks Marcel, and make sure you go with the Aves apoxy sculpt.... I've tried Milliput, but it was way too messy and hard to work with dry.gif

:cheers:/>

/Jesse

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Wow Jesse - there is nothing much I can say that hasn't already been said. Your skills are nothing short of enviable. The sheep skin cover is down right awesome.

I saw one of these F-15's at my LHS today for quite cheap given the scale and detail ($120.00AU). I should buy one but of course I don't have the shelf space to accommodate it (yet). Still trying to figure out where I'm going to put the A400 when it's done :unsure:

Anyways Jesse, looking forward to your next update!

:cheers:

Si

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jaw-dropping.gifjaw-dropping.gifjaw-dropping.gif377.gif377.gif377.gif

'nuff said... biggrin.gif

Thanks for stopping by Clif, next time stick around for a cold one 271.gif

Wow Jesse - there is nothing much I can say that hasn't already been said. Your skills are nothing short of enviable. The sheep skin cover is down right awesome.

I saw one of these F-15's at my LHS today for quite cheap given the scale and detail ($120.00AU). I should buy one but of course I don't have the shelf space to accommodate it (yet). Still trying to figure out where I'm going to put the A400 when it's done unsure.gif

Anyways Jesse, looking forward to your next update!

271.gif

Si

Thanks for the kind words Si!!! Sounds like a fair price, if I was you I'd just buy the kit and worry about the real estate issue later :rolleyes:/>

/Jesse

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Good evening folks, finished painting the Aces II bang seats, so I will keep this short and sweet... I apologize for the many many pictures, but hopefully you can enjoy all of the different angles dry.gif

Although the seats are quite similar, they do have a few subtle differences :blink:/> Pilot's chair on the left, wizzo's on the right...

1746d3a9-0420-4ab2-8b15-0e5d94be9cda_zps19267aa9.jpg

The placards were taken from the Eduard ejection seat set... WSO chair on the left, pilot's seat on the right... As you can see the pilots' starboard side is quite busy compared to the other.... Also the grey paint on the WSO seat rails go higher than the pilot's...

31b67570-bcaa-49d6-9ffc-7ac35413f553_zpsf2bd82ba.jpg

I like how the sheep skin covers turned out, unfortunately most of it will not be seen after the crew takes a seat dry.gif

66fff07d-4225-4030-878d-da1bdc7ef074_zpsccf2f69e.jpg

Not much time or effort was wasted on the backside.... Looks like the O2 valve is about to snap off, which could be very hazardous to the crew :(/>

19c9d20e-f531-4969-81b7-82d5bd5ffe9a_zpsb1442310.jpg

A shot of the WSO starboard side...

c150850c-baea-4c78-9719-450a14e6f673_zps493e7370.jpg

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One more of the bang seat, I promise :P/>

6d6e20cf-bbcc-4523-8bc5-4b86e1d97aa5_zpsf15b6416.jpg

I tried this method of weathering on the foot controls to practice... First coat laid down was Alclad Aluminum, followed by a lightened mix of Pale Green, and finally 2 coats of FS 36320 for the interior color.... I then took some mineral spirits and carefully wiped away the layers to represent wear... It turned out OK.

7e6affca-209c-41b2-8d52-81ad0c4606ff_zpsf0023433.jpg

Finally, I scratch-built a couple of map lights that clip on the starboard side of both crew member's.

46fcd347-f34f-451e-ba59-cdd56b779506_zpsa3089b2f.jpg

My apologies for the offending Shih Tzu hair in the photo :doh:/>

012aeebb-a3fe-482c-8aec-f8e618bc67de_zpsdaaa4122.jpg

I will post more progress after the tub and instruments are detail painted... Thanks for the continued interest and if you have any questions or critiques please feel free....

:cheers:/>

/Jesse

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