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I use testors model masters acryl ( only my second model )tried masking tape and blue painters tape both lifted paint. let one stand three days and it still lifted

Edited by dean spirkoff
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Model Master acrylics have horrible adhesion. You need a primer underneath them. But they may not stick to that either. I'd also recommend using a lower tack tape like yellow kabuki type, either Tamiya brand or Frog brand, which you can find at most stores in the US.

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The only way I have found to keep mm acrylics from coming up with the tape is to seal with a enamel clear coat between coats. Sometimes post it notes can work or blue tack. I've learned not to use mm acrylics when painting multi color patterns. Or paint it free hand.

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The only way I have found to keep mm acrylics from coming up with the tape is to seal with a enamel clear coat between coats. Sometimes post it notes can work or blue tack. I've learned not to use mm acrylics when painting multi color patterns. Or paint it free hand.

That begs the question why not just use MM enamel and only use one coat?

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No matter what kind of paint you are airbrushing, you really want to use a spray booth or some sort of ventilation when spraying paint. If you have a compressor you could buy an air tank, fill it, attach a regulator, and take it outside to airbrush. You can airbrush on a sheet of cardboard or a poster board and then cover it with a large plastic bin, with holes for ventilation, to prevent anything from getting on the paint and the wind from blowing the parts away. Or you could just use a spray can primer like Tamiya using the same method.

Edited by Lodewijk
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I just encountered this issue on a build, so I'm glad to see it's not just me :) I haven't done much building in years, and never really developed much in the way of skills, so this build was kind of a test case for different techniques.

After the paint pulled off from the masking the first time, I used tape to pull off as much of paint as I could (which turned out to be pretty much all of it) and then gave it a coat of Tamiya white primer, and after that the paint seemed to stick OK. I also switched from blue painter's tape to Tamiya masking tape (I was using the blue tape just to cover larger areas, and wanted the extra width).

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I have pretty good luck masking over metalic paints by takings some of the stickiness ("stickyness"?) off the tape before I apply it to the model. I'll take a section of tape that I need and then repeatedly stick and unstick my fingers from it. I'll apply the tape, airbrush what I need and then remove the tape immediately. Even on something as fragile as a natural metal finish, it doesn't remove any of the paint. I can't help but wonder if the same technique would apply to the acrylic paint as well.

Eric

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I have pretty good luck masking over metalic paints by takings some of the stickiness ("stickyness"?) off the tape before I apply it to the model. I'll take a section of tape that I need and then repeatedly stick and unstick my fingers from it. I'll apply the tape, airbrush what I need and then remove the tape immediately. Even on something as fragile as a natural metal finish, it doesn't remove any of the paint. I can't help but wonder if the same technique would apply to the acrylic paint as well.

Eric

It sure does. I'm always sticking pieces of tape to my clothing (preferably my jeans) before using it to mask on Vallejo. Mind you, thoroughly cleaning the plastic before you start and using a primer are still necessary.

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Try mixing about 10% Future to your MM Acryl paint. (Replacing an equal amount of thinner.) It will both improve paint flow & solve your adhesion issues. Like others said, prime the model first or at minimum, wash the plastic with a dish soap.

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Try mixing about 10% Future to your MM Acryl paint. (Replacing an equal amount of thinner.) It will both improve paint flow & solve your adhesion issues. Like others said, prime the model first or at minimum, wash the plastic with a dish soap.

Just curious, Will future add shine to flat acryl paints? Most of the time builders are overcoating with flat clear, but i'm wondering from anyone that uses this method.

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Just curious, Will future add shine to flat acryl paints? Most of the time builders are overcoating with flat clear, but i'm wondering from anyone that uses this method.

It might. You need a gloss coat under decals anyways.

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I use Tamiya acrylics to prime under MM acryl paint and find that I can mask just fine over it. Only very occaisional lifting. I also use the MM Acryl brand thinnner and that seems to help as well. I also mask with tamiya tape which is pretty low tack.

If do not do the above even tamiya tape will pull up the majority of paint underneath.

HTH

Zach

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Just curious, Will future add shine to flat acryl paints?

Yes. It will bump a flat paint up to a mild semi-gloss, but not by much. Future only has the ability to provide a gloss coat when it's used as a top coat. Its ability to refract light is hindered when it's part of the paint mixture. Remember that the idea here is to provide better adhesion for masking purposes; adding Future to your paint mixture does not eliminate any steps in the finishing process. Once you're finished painting, you're still going to want a top coat of Future (Or whatever you prefer.) to provide a glossy surface for the application of decals.

Edited by Pirata
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