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Decal Problems. HELP.


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Just built my first model airplane, got her painted and ready to go. Looks pretty fair for a firsty. The kit has a copyright of 1992. Lindberg Laird Turner Meteor Air Racer 1/32. I am still learning guys. Put the decal in luke warm water. When I got them out to apply, around 35 seconds, they completely fell apart. Tried again, fell apart. What did I do wrong? I am 63 and thought I knew it all. LOL. Any suggestions for more decals? HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP. Mike in Missouri.

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My $0.02 cents

1)The Decals may have been too old.

2)The decals may have been bad from the get go..from 1992

You can apply a protective coating onto the next sheet. see this article ARC link The author used Microscale Clear Decal film, but I am sure that there are other alternatives.

Perhaps Lindberg can help you out with a new sheet? Assuming that they have it.

Lindberg

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the best bet for old decal sheets like that is either microscale decal film or testors decal bonder in the spray can which might be easier to find. I test all my old decal sheets by using a decal off the sheet that I wont use.

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The liquid decal from microscale does work really good, but in my experiences with it, it's best to only apply it to the decal that you're going to place on the plane. I initially tried to just apply it all around the decal, thinking that it would still be just the carrier paper, however this stuff is a type of liquid carrier film in itself, so you'll have all the excess along with it if you go overboard. So either paint it on carefully around the decals to save you some time, or do it sloppy, and just trim really close when cutting decals out for installation.

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I'd go with the suggestion to ask Lindberg for another sheet. If that doesn't bring any results, then I'd try to recover by using a liquid decal solution. If you've had two decals turn to dust then (1) welcome to the club and (2) the others are probably all going to do the same.

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The liquid decal from microscale does work really good, but in my experiences with it, it's best to only apply it to the decal that you're going to place on the plane. I initially tried to just apply it all around the decal, thinking that it would still be just the carrier paper, however this stuff is a type of liquid carrier film in itself, so you'll have all the excess along with it if you go overboard. So either paint it on carefully around the decals to save you some time, or do it sloppy, and just trim really close when cutting decals out for installation.

An extremely good point.
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I'd go with the suggestion to ask Lindberg for another sheet. If that doesn't bring any results, then I'd try to recover by using a liquid decal solution. If you've had two decals turn to dust then (1) welcome to the club and (2) the others are probably all going to do the same.

Yep, they all crumbled.

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What did I do wrong? I am 63 and thought I knew it all. Mike in Missouri.

It took you 63 years to finally know it all? What took you so long? I had all the answers by the time I was 42, then they went and changed all the questions! :bandhead2:/> :bandhead2:/> LOL!!

Also, the water may have been too warm.

Edited by Flyingfortress
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Hey Mike, I'm 57. Does that mean I have 6 more years until I start screwing things up. On to the task at hand. I'm just gonna add and/or modify some of the great advice that you have already received.

1. I have had great luck with Testor's Decal Bonder(product #9200), but have only used it on decals that I

have printed on my inkjet printer. According to the directions, Testor's advises to use it on ink-jet printed

decals AND it "can also be used over older decals that have become brittle and break apart when wetted."

2. I use Microscale Liquid Decal Film(MLDF) for decals like yours or for decals that look like the film over them

has either dried up or was never covered properly When they were manufactured. Several years ago, a

a good friend of mine gave me some great advice about his method of using MLDF. He told me to mix the

MLDF with denatured alcohol at a ratio of 50/50(1/1, half & half, etc.). This thins the MLDF down so that it

can be airbrushed. Spray on one coat. It levels out nicely and dries quickly.

- A little info on my friend for the sake of credibility: He is a professional modeler and used to own his own

LHS in a small town. He has built thousands (probably tens of thousands) of models!!! Most of his models in

the last several years are models that he has carved out of wood to be used as a master for making cast

resin models. He has an ALPS printer and prints decals for the kits. Most of his aircraft models are rare

subjects that are unavailable as the plastic models that we are used to. He is also a retired fighter pilot.

It's great how so many ARC folks are willing to give you advice. I may be preaching to the choir here, but whatever method you choose, make sure that you do your test on a decal that is un-needed or can be replaced. Good Luck!!

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It took you 63 years to finally know it all? What took you so long? I had all the answers by the time I was 42, then they went and changed all the questions! :bandhead2:/>/> :bandhead2:/>/> LOL!!

Also, the water may have been too warm.

Water to warm.? Hmmmm. Have to check into that. Sounds smart to me.

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Hey Mike, I'm 57. Does that mean I have 6 more years until I start screwing things up. On to the task at hand. I'm just gonna add and/or modify some of the great advice that you have already received.

1. I have had great luck with Testor's Decal Bonder(product #9200), but have only used it on decals that I

have printed on my inkjet printer. According to the directions, Testor's advises to use it on ink-jet printed

decals AND it "can also be used over older decals that have become brittle and break apart when wetted."

2. I use Microscale Liquid Decal Film(MLDF) for decals like yours or for decals that look like the film over them

has either dried up or was never covered properly When they were manufactured. Several years ago, a

a good friend of mine gave me some great advice about his method of using MLDF. He told me to mix the

MLDF with denatured alcohol at a ratio of 50/50(1/1, half & half, etc.). This thins the MLDF down so that it

can be airbrushed. Spray on one coat. It levels out nicely and dries quickly.

- A little info on my friend for the sake of credibility: He is a professional modeler and used to own his own

LHS in a small town. He has built thousands (probably tens of thousands) of models!!! Most of his models in

the last several years are models that he has carved out of wood to be used as a master for making cast

resin models. He has an ALPS printer and prints decals for the kits. Most of his aircraft models are rare

subjects that are unavailable as the plastic models that we are used to. He is also a retired fighter pilot.

It's great how so many ARC folks are willing to give you advice. I may be preaching to the choir here, but whatever method you choose, make sure that you do your test on a decal that is un-needed or can be replaced. Good Luck!!

Caution. Cheap beer can alter brain processing over the years. No longer consume it, but the damage was done. LOL. Thanks for the time for the advice and tips. Good stuff. The people here are awesome. Mike in Missouri.

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So, I infer that all of your decals are gone with the wind. What'ca gonna do next?

There are a number of kits on eBay -- you could get a decal sheet to apply a decal fixative to. There is also Lindberg -- which might send you a usable sheet. I assume that the kit is ready for decaling and it would be a shame to waste the work up to this point.

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Yep, I contacted Lindberg and they are trying to find me a set. The Bird is redy for decals, but I hate to purchase another kit off ebay because I think they would have bad decals also. It is a thought though. Thanks, Mike in Missouri

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