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Flat clearcoats? What do you use?


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Hey everyone. I'm just wondering what you all use for a final matte clearcoat? Normally after applying Future to my model for pre-decaling and then sealing the decals with another coat of Future I use the spray can Testors Dullcoat for the final coat. It has always worked very well for me and has never reacted with the Future in a negative way. The reason I'm asking this is because these spray cans are expensive after awhile because there really isn't much in them. I was wondering what you all use for a finishing dullcoat because I was hoping maybe someone could suggest something that could possibly be bought at a local hardware store in larger spray cans that would give me more bang for the buck. I live in Canada near Vancouver so it will have to be something that I can purchase in Canada.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

Edited by cf18hornet
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If you have an airbrush, you could either buy the Testors dull in the smaller bottles, and stretch it a whole lot further using the AB, or you could decant the stuff in the can, and still make it go a whole lot further than spraying it straight from the can. If you do not have an airbrush though, there's a couple of other options. I've used the Krylon clear flat from the can, and it's only about three bucks or so here in the states. Goes a long way, and covers pretty well. Stinks, but that's the nature of the beast. You could also try any other conventional clear flat in the can as long as it says that it's applicable on plastics. It's nice to have a test piece first though if you're unsure, but the Krylon has been pretty solid. Make sure you shoot that coat before you pull your clear part masks first though, because obviously you don't want to ruin your clear parts.

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I like the 'fine-tuning' of a flat finish that a mix of Tamiya Flat Base and Future/Klear allows. For brush application to small objects, I tried Revell acrylic clear varnish recently and it is much better than most others IMHO.

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Why the spray can, no airbrush?

As recommended you should be using the airbrush,and you can thin it allot, it doesn't take much to flatten a surface.

I usually start with a 70/30 thinner/paint mix, and keep diluting till the last shot is almost pure thinner.

Curt

10_23_122.jpg

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Just curious, having never used dullcote from the bottle. Does it need to be thinned with lacquer thinner before airbrushing or will 'normal' thinner work?

Chris

Lacquer thinner...I use the Testors (not Model Master) clear flat and gloss lacquers.

The ones in the 1 1/4 oz. bottle with the pink label...It's a bigger bottle and cheaper

than the Model Master stuff. Thinned about 50/50 with lacquer thinner.

Been using this combo for 35+ years now.

Cheers,

Jerry

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If you plan on keeping your builds for many years, stay away from the Testors stuff. I have found that on the older builds of mine where I used that stuff, it tends to eventually interact with any decaling solutions underneath and show stains, and also begins discolor over time to give a slight amber hue. We are talking over 10-15 years later but... :doh:

I am a huge fan of the Humbrol Matte Clear in the tin that I apply with my airbrush. Or their Satin Clear when I do not want a "dead flat" finish. B)

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If you plan on keeping your builds for many years, stay away from the Testors stuff. I have found that on the older builds of mine where I used that stuff, it tends to eventually interact with any decaling solutions underneath and show stains, and also begins discolor over time to give a slight amber hue. We are talking over 10-15 years later but... doh.gif

I am a huge fan of the Humbrol Matte Clear in the tin that I apply with my airbrush. Or their Satin Clear when I do not want a "dead flat" finish. cool.gif

Never experienced this. If it is yellowing it is being applied way too thick. Interacting with decal solutions????

In any case, if you cover your decals with an acrylic clear to seal everything, then apply the Dullcote, then you should be good no matter what. That's what I do anyway.

Dullcote thinned 50/50 with plain old department store lacquer thinner (Crown or Klean-Strip) gives the smoothest flat finish I have ever seen.

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If you plan on keeping your builds for many years, stay away from the Testors stuff. I have found that on the older builds of mine where I used that stuff, it tends to eventually interact with any decaling solutions underneath and show stains, and also begins discolor over time to give a slight amber hue. We are talking over 10-15 years later but... :doh:/>

I am a huge fan of the Humbrol Matte Clear in the tin that I apply with my airbrush. Or their Satin Clear when I do not want a "dead flat" finish. B)/>

How do you know it's the decal solution? And if you don't mind me asking...why is the decal solution having a chance to show up? I was taught as a general rule of thumb that after you get decals laid down, prior to sealing them with a gloss coat, it's a good idea to come back over all of them with something to clean up any dried up solution so that you have a clean surface to apply the sealing coat. Not doubting, or even knocking your method at all, just trying to figure out how you came to the conclusion that it was decal solution. As someone else already said too...if you're experiencing yellowing, it's simply because the coating is too thick on itself.

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Well, I presume it is decal solution interaction due to where the staining shows up- around the decals in "tide marks". Believe me, I follow the directions of the Micro Set/Micro Sol with a damp soft cloth wipe up afterwards.

As far as applying the stuff too thick? Possible I suppose, as it was out of those little Testors rattle cans, and it is harder to apply from those with finesse than with an airbrush.

Like I said these builds were done many many years ago, mostly in the early 90's, and the top coat has discolored ever so slightly but noticably over time. No one in my home smokes so I know it is not nicotine discoloration. The completed builds were not displayed in direct sunlight, so that possibility is out. And the discoloration is only on those surviving old builds where I know I used rattle can Testors gloss coat and dull coat. Due to cost of rattle cans, I decided to try different products such as those put out by different paint companies and Micro Scale before finally settling on my current use of Future gloss and preferably Humbrol Matt/Satin top coats.

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Well, I presume it is decal solution interaction due to where the staining shows up- around the decals in "tide marks". Believe me, I follow the directions of the Micro Set/Micro Sol with a damp soft cloth wipe up afterwards.

As far as applying the stuff too thick? Possible I suppose, as it was out of those little Testors rattle cans, and it is harder to apply from those with finesse than with an airbrush.

Like I said these builds were done many many years ago, mostly in the early 90's, and the top coat has discolored ever so slightly but noticably over time. No one in my home smokes so I know it is not nicotine discoloration. The completed builds were not displayed in direct sunlight, so that possibility is out. And the discoloration is only on those surviving old builds where I know I used rattle can Testors gloss coat and dull coat. Due to cost of rattle cans, I decided to try different products such as those put out by different paint companies and Micro Scale before finally settling on my current use of Future gloss and preferably Humbrol Matt/Satin top coats.

Well, if the model is washed down properly after decaling, there shouldn't be any significant decal solution remaining...except maybe under the decal itself. If you are getting discoloration on the clear film, or yellowing of white decal film.....that may not be the Dullcote but the decal itself. Who knows?

If you were using a rattle can, then yes, maybe you applied it thick enough for it to yellow.

I have builds from the 90's that I sprayed with dullcote with an airbrush....no issues.

We each find what works for us.

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Like I said, they are "tide marks" where the Micro Sol/ Micro Set contacted the rattle can Gloss Coat/Dull Coat. Not just the decal film edging. The marks took many years to appear. As did the amber tinge to appear. it was not an overnight thing. I mentioned it on another website forum discussing similar issues and a few guys there had seen similar things as well. I like to think that I wiped the build down properly, as my decaling methods have not changed in the past twenty some odd years, only my gloss and dull coats. And these things only occured with the Testor rattle can stuff. I wont be losing any sleep over it as I have changed my products in the ensuing years. I have used Gunze, Aeromaster, Humbrol, and other brand clear coats with satisfactory results. The only one that I tried and did not like was Microscale's stuff. Live and learn.

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I've heard this from my auto building associates. They used Testors gloss coat and it went amber after a few years. Very noticeable over white and annoying after you've put a lot of work into a race vehicle with its sponsor decals.

hth

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I used to use Mr Hobby spray can. Their matt clear is pretty good, and it lasted me a fair while, around 3-4 models (1/72 scale modern fighters). That was before I owned an airbrush...

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