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Just wondering how you all, especially the pros get the pattern right on the money and still have a hard demarcation line. I have been using tape masked over and cut through, to working with liquid masks and nothing seems to be working right for me.

I know a lot of you use patterns straight from the decal reference sheet blown up or down to scale for a pattern. Then cut it out and use it for a mask. But as Savvy as I am on computers I am like a Neanderthal when it comes to printers and set up.

Another thing I know we all use is the sticky tack putty. My only problem with using that is it always leaves half of the demarcation line more of a soft line. Am I doing something wrong?

Can someone PLEASE explain to me how you get those awesome Camo patterns without having to go back a second, er third time like me and have to touch things up. Thanks every one. Any and all advice will be good advice.

Edited by Devilleader501
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Paper masks.

If you don't have the testicular fortitude :woot.gif::rolleyes: to scale up the instructions, just freehand them with a pair of scissors. The real things usually didn't have per-made masks so don't worry about being exact.

:cheers:

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Thin strips of electrical tape. It's very flexible to make the demarcation line, then run Blu-Tack or liquid mask behind it.

Would you give provide examples of the patterns and the scales you want to work in?

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Thin strips of electrical tape. It's very flexible to make the demarcation line, then run Blu-Tack or liquid mask behind it.

Doesn't the electrical tape leave residue? I don't think it's made to be removed.

Stacey

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I've found that if you're cutting it into extremely thin strips (1 mm or less) on a piece of glass and handling it with your fingers, it isn't a problem. Just don't leave it sitting for more than a few days and you should be fine. It may also depend upon the manufacture of electrical tape and the humidity/temperature at the time of application. I'd test to make sure (residue, staining, pulling paint, etc).

Edit: Blue vinyl painters tape is also an option.

Edited by Horrido
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The others have given good advice (I use blutack). I also don't worry about replicating the instructions exactly, as those hand-painting the planes didn't always get all of them to match. '

This is a line-up of F-105s in the SEA scheme, and there are noticeable differences across *all* of the aircraft.

F-105G Wild Weasels

:cheers:

Mike

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The real things usually didn't have per-made masks so don't worry about being exact.

On wartime factory-built British aircraft, from early 1940, yes they did; however the advice about not being too exact holds good, since the pattern was drawn on scale 1' squares superimposed over a scale drawing of the airframe. The pattern was then transferred onto flexible mats, which were laid on the airframe, and used as masks.

Post-war, painting reverted to a blended edge, but to a maximum of 2", and Hawker, at least, retained the mats during Hunter production (first Tornado schemes were reportedly done with masks, as well.). Since the colours were usually covered by a gloss varnish, drag from the overspray was probably less of a problem by then.

Edgar

Edited by Edgar
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I use the same method as far as using the stretched white tack in patterns on the plane. I don't line them up exactly either, because as others have said, it's not always perfect. Then just shoot towards the base of the tack from INSIDE of the color lines that you're painting, and everytime you'll draw a fine, hard edge.

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The key isn't so much the mask as it is painting light and as dry as possible. If you have a thick coat of wet, thinned paint it is going to seep under.

This is true too. I'm under the assumption that he's got some sort of grasp on the airbrushing basics prior to trying to figure this dillema out, but very good point.

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6979639931_6853ca51df_c.jpg

I use various types of tape. I make sure that I always cut it with an Xacto so its a super fine line, using a cutting board (which also takes a bit of the tape tack out which I like so there is less chance of peel) and from camo patterns I press the edge down as I bend it around to make the patterns. I used the stuff that is now called "frog tape" for the edges then cheaper masking tape to cover after that to save tape and cash. I bought a big slug of the tape that is now called "frog tape" before the name change so I havn't technically used the frog tape. its similiar to tamiya tape though.

Have patience and realize it is a process, I have yet to have a perfectly masked model, things can and will go wrong but you can always fix it. On the above model I alternated masking days and painting days over the course of 4 days. with touch ups for the fifth day.

HTH

Edited by TaiidanTomcat
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Hey is this a ship from the Homeworld game?

Chris

Yep! based on it.

http://beyondthesprues.com/Forum/index.php?topic=758.0

And they said masturba-tation would make you go blind!

thats what I get for trying to show off :doh:

One other not I want to add is I still use Tamiya tape, I do think its the best stuff out there, I just use it for special occasions due to expense. Frog tape works for about 99 percent of models for me.

dsc01430ix.jpg

Edited by TaiidanTomcat
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Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. I don't know why I didn't think about my pin striping tape sooner. :bandhead2: I have some thats about an 1/8 inch wide that I masked my CH-53 off with. I guess I just didn't think it would bend that well but I am going to try it and see what I come up with.

It should bend to almost anywhere I need it to go, from there if I can't get the bend tight enough then I can liquid mask it. Hey TT what is that model of that thing looks SICK. i may have to get one of those. I love the paint and decals on it. Thanks again guys.

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I always use blutack, press it flat on the surface, and spray at an angle towards the edge so the paint gets all the way up to the edge so there is no feathering.

I've done that but when I pull the mask, I have a pronounced ridge of paint. Even when I spray extra lightly I still get a visible ridge. I can sand it down but that leaves a trace on the paint, so I have to remask and paint, which leaves a ridge, etc, etc.

My solution is to limit my modeling to subjects only painted in a single color :)

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To stop underbleed when using any tape run a very fine coat of the colour under the mask down the edge with a brush, then if there is a bleed its the same colour.

Julien

Likewise, I will seal it with a hand-brushed coat of Future

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It's not the bleed that is giving me problems, it's the shapes of the camo that I am doing. Nothing I seem to do works for me. I started using liquid Laytex mask which I love if I can figure out how to put it down smoothly. I have used brushes and q-tips and every time I end up with jagged edges.

I want this Prowler to look as close to the real thing as possible, thats the only reason I am making such a big stink over the lines. I just want it to look really good. I have a lot of A/M with this kit and want it to look as good as the dime I paid for it.

It seems that the only time I get the jagged edges is when there is a tight corner and I have to pull away from the model. Do they make rubber tipped spatula brushes? Kinda like the ones moms use for spreading cake batter in a pan, only to our scale?

The problem I am running into most is the brush clogging up and not wanting to flow the laytex like it does paint. If I can cure this problem I think I will stick with this method of masking because it is so simple. Keep the suggestions coming guys I appreciate it.

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Do they make rubber tipped spatula brushes? Kinda like the ones moms use for spreading cake batter in a pan, only to our scale?

Something sticks in the back of my mind as to "yes". Eyeliner applicator? Check out a cosmetics store, they'll likely have something. I love cosmetics stores, the clerks were always fascinated by what I was planning. Even scored a few dates in high school and college.

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Well I to WallyWorld to the makeup and also art isles and didn't find what I was looking for. So Ingenuity got the better of me and I built me own spatula out of and old paint brush and some styrene. So far it works like a champ and is way easier to clean than a brush. Here is 2 pictures of the results and the new spatula I made. This thing actually works really well.

20130704_132236_zps1d2df69a.jpg

20130704_132246_zps99cb7a78.jpg

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