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Get drafting/architects tape instead of dymo tape - dymo is good for straight lines, but is tough to use on curved panel lines or compound curved surfaces. The tape is thick and will act as just as good a guide for any scribing tool as the dymo tape.

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What are some tips for scribing the curved surfaces?

I use custom templates cut from aluminum cans. For simple, non-compound curves I cut thin, straight strips of aluminum. For more complex compound curves I use a set of french curves to trace patterns of varying radii on the aluminum, then I cut them out and test fit them to find a good match for the surface. Either way, I'll attach one end of the template with a bit of masking tape and hold the other end firmly taut with one hand. Then I use the free hand to scribe with a needled chucked in a pin vise.

The nice thing is that these templates are reusable over several models before they start to wear out, and they're cheap!!

Edited by CrowTRobot
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Micromark used to sell a set of scribbing templates (three types). Great value.

If you cut a thin strip of Dynmo tape you can induce a decent freehand curve. May I suggest you wipe down the surface is alcohol before each time you lay the tape down: I find that oils from your skin and other contaminants really do a number on the adhesive - you'll find that you get a bit more mileage out of the tape.

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Hi,

- 3M Aluminum tape works as well as Dymo and it's easier to cut into shapes.

- For complicated shapes on a round fuselage, use metal templates to cut templates from aluminum tape, stick in place and scribe.

- Good quality electrical tape layered two at a time works great for curves, even tiny one's. BUT your first pass should be VERY light. Did I mention very light passes at first? :D/>

Regards

Pierre

Edited by Pierre Sacha
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  • 2 weeks later...

Agree on using electrical tape. Suggest buying a color other than black. Green works for me. For curves, cut in narrow strips and it will handle the curve nicely. As suggested, start scribing very lightly, heavier as you proceed.....slowly and patiently.

Bails

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  • 2 weeks later...

One technique I've read about is super-gluing square strip to the model, using the edge of the strip to guide the scribe and then using super-glue debonder to remove the strip. Interesting idea, but I've never tried it myself.

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All this effort!

I use Dymo tape where I have to put lines on virgin plastic. I also have scribing templates, but none is flexible enough to go everywhere it needs to, so they get very little use. My main technique is: follow the lines on the kit. If you're happy with where they are, they're almost always high enough to guide your scriber. Start with the gentlest of touches, just to key the line you're scribing, and you'll minimise the chances of the tip skiting off somewhere because of too much pressure. The one drawback with this is that you have to scribe to one side of the kit's panel line, so the shapes you end up drawing are always slightly displaced. But I defy anyone looking at it afterwards to know that. If you're careful, for instance displacing the same way on either side, there should be no ill-effects. After a while you'll surprise yourself with how easy it is to scribe freehand (very, very gingerly, though).

On the other hand, if you're concerned that the kit's panel lines are in the wrong place, crack on. Scrub them out, and all the techniques above are good ones.

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It helps when using Pigsty's suggestion to start out pushing the scriber rather than pulling it. Use very light pressure and scribe in "reverse" to set the initial groove. Keep the scriber tilted slightly toward the raised panel lines of the kit. This will help prevent going off line and having to correct the mistakes.

Bob

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