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Just finished this today. The Revell 1/72 P-47D. It was a nice build with no real problems. There was a little bit of flash on some parts, so a little clean up was needed. I built the Hasegawa P-47 recently which was again a problem free build, but the detail on the Revell kit is much better. I also have the Academy P-47 in my stash, which looks good in the box, but we'll see how it builds. The only real problem I have is that no matter how much I try I can't mask canopies :explode:/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/> :bandhead2:/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/> Hope you like the photos, and thanks for looking.PICT00073_zpsa6bc9535.jpgPICT00153_zps4954ddd6.jpgPICT00193_zps81587224.jpgPICT00112_zps799b8bbf.jpgPICT0020_zps55607114.jpgPICT00093_zpsd634b31e.jpgPICT00082_zpsb888b092.jpgPICT00102_zps76c49058.jpg

Edited by f mercik
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Great work, Francis! I really like natural metal finish with the dissimilar panels. Looks like you did a wash too which highlights the panel lines and rivets. I am no good at masking canopies either but your looks pretty good other than some bleeding underneath the mask on the sliding canopy. What do you mask with? I use Bare Metal Foil which I burnish down and then it is easy to see the framing and can cut it carefully. Sometimes I have some residue left over when I take it off but that can be polished out with some Novus polish.

Great work and I look forward to seeing more in the future. BTW, nice photography too.

Sincerely,

Tom

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Outstanding work! Nice finish! I build this one several years ago, but not as nice as yours!

For masking canopies i use Tamiya Tape and put it onto the edge of the canopy, slightly hanging over it. Then i take a toothpick and go along the line often (where the glass part ends) to curve out. Then after several times i take a sharp knife and cut carefully along the toothpicked-line. I'm not perfect in this method, but for me it works quite well.

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Outstanding work! Nice finish! I build this one several years ago, but not as nice as yours!

For masking canopies i use Tamiya Tape and put it onto the edge of the canopy, slightly hanging over it. Then i take a toothpick and go along the line often (where the glass part ends) to curve out. Then after several times i take a sharp knife and cut carefully along the toothpicked-line. I'm not perfect in this method, but for me it works quite well.

I use this method also, a new blade is a must.

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Francis, really an impressive BMF. The panel tone variation is really quite convincing, especially in 1/72 scale. And your choice of decals, just makes the Jug that much more spectacular. Extremely well done.<br><br>As for your problem with canopies, the smaller the canopy/scale, the more acute the angles and curves are. I've tried every known method I've ever read about or seen. My preferred method is to start with Tamiya tape, and cut into thin strips. I then start with a strip in the rear corner as it's usually a 90 degree angle, then carefully lay it down along the frame line. The thin strips will conform to curves. When I reach the end of the frame, I use a sharpened (tip roll sanded to a sharp point) toothpick and work the tape into the frame line. Using a new bade, I carefully cut the tape. I work my way around the canopy. Once the entire frame is done, you can fill in with pieces of tape, or use a liquid mask. For the windscreen it's somewhat harder as there is usually a front plate with a acute curve on the top. I kind of cheat this out. I measure the width of the curve from one side to the next. Mark it that out on a piece of Tamiya tape, then approx. the curve, and cut it out with a sharp blade. You'll be surprised at just how close you can get after a few tries. Then do the rest of the frame as before. Fill in with tape or liquid. Now mask the inside of the canopy and windscreen. 1st color coat is whatever the interior color is. When dry, apply your color coats. Airbrush is the way to go. <br><br>As you can see hand brushing never seems to leave a smooth solid color. Let the paint completely dry. Then apply another coat. The problem with acrylic paints is that the water softens the previous coat and if you go over it too much, you actually start to remove the paint. When dry, use a sharpened toothpick to carefully clean the frame lines.

Edited by Joel_W
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Very nice work Francis.

My point of critique would be, for your next BMF to use thinner layers of metallic color and to grit your model - just a little bit - with a 2000 wet sandpaper. It will look much better and you will not need a gloss varnish to seal it.

I'm guessing that you have painted your aircraft with Humbrol metal cotes? Right?

Keep up the good work!!

Sernak

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