Decal Softener Strength

[Crazy Snap Captain]

Does anyone know which brand of decal softener is the gentlest? I have Mr Softener and Micro Sol Softener. I used Mr Softener on some Caracal decals and it literally melted them. Not sure if Micro Sol is lighter.

I need to get some decals to conform to a particularly bumpy area of an aircraft. Is there maybe a home recipe that may be gentler?

[dragonfly]

I'm sure Micro sol is not as strong as most others yet works just fine for most decals. MS may require multiple applications for stubborn areas, I've never had MS damage decals....though Solvaset turned some decals to a pile of goo. The trick is to not let the stronger solutions sit on the decal for long.

[lyonkubb]

I have had sucess with mixing Micro-Sol 75/25 and 60/40 with de-ionized water to lesen its potency for delicate decals.

Have not used that with Caracal decals but will soon with my F-101B!

[viper730]

Try Micro Set the one in the blue labeled bottle. I use it first to get the decal in position and to start the adhering process. Next I go with Micro Sol or the red labeled bottle if the decal needs further sucking down to get into panel lines etc.

BTW there is a decal tutorial on the Micro Scale website..http://www.microscale.com/index.htm

Below is copied from their website found under the FAQ..

HTH

Brian

Basic Instructions for the Application of Microscale Waterslide Decals

1.The object to be decaled must have a clean and relatively smooth glossy surface.

2.Cut out the Decal lettering and dip in clean water (preferably Distilled water) anywhere from 10 to 20 seconds. Note: Some lettering might take a longer soaking time than other sheets. Set the Decal on a damp paper towel for a short period of time or until the Decal slides freely on the backing paper.

3.Place Decal where desired on object. It might be of help if a layer of Micro-Set is brushed on the object first and then place the Decal. This process will allow the Decal to avoid the Silvering effect that can happen with just the water. Work as fast as you can in placing the lettering as the Micro-Set starts the wrinkling of the Decal and setting it to the object.

4.Blot gently around the edges of the Decal with a paper towel or tissue to remove excess water and allow to dry completely. Add more Micro-Set as necessary over the top of the Decal very carefully. This process will make the Decal lettering a part of the model.

5.When placing a Decal on slightly irregular surfaces, use Micro-Sol. This is the stronger of the two products and aids in soften the Decal to fill the contour, rivets and crevices on the object. The setting solution also improves adhesion by eliminating the tiny bubbles that can be trapped under the Decal film.

6.When the Decals are completely dry, it is necessary to wash off the Decal glue and water spots from the object with a damp paper towel or you may brush the water on and then dab it dry. Do not wipe the Decal lettering. Drying time may vary, but allow several hours or overnight to before proceeding.

7.It is recommended that a clear protective coating be applied to the entire surface of the object. The over spraying of the Decals will protect them from handling and seal the painted surfac

[balls47]

Yessir,

Some people like to paint, some like to weather, some like to assemble. If all I had to do was apply decals, I'd be a very happy modeler. Assuming that only water didn't give you satisfactory results, you will need something stronger to make those decals snuggle down to that "particular bumpy area." I have 4 weapons in my decal applying arsenal, but you will only need to consider #1, #2, & #3. Starting with the weakest to the strongest, they are:

1. Micro Set (blue label) - This stuff helps the decal adhere to the model and gives you a little more time to work

the decal into place. You will have to be careful after a little while, because it also softens the decal a bit.

After you have it in place, carefully put some of the Micro Set on top of the decal. Let it dry.

2. Micro Sol (red label) - Use Micro Sol if the Micro Set doesn't soften the decal enough. Apply the Micro Sol

to the decal only, going just over the edges of the clear edges. It may soften your clear coat,especially

if your clear coat is something like Future. After the Micro Sol has been on for a bit, you may notice that

the decal is starting to wrinkle. At this point, DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL! The Micro Sol is working its magic.

You may find that you will need to use several applications of Micro Sol. If the Micro Sol doesn't give

you the results you want, move on.....

3. Solvaset (in your case, Mr. Softener) - This stuff is quite a bit stronger than Micro Set and Micro Sol. I have

never used Mr. Softener solution, but from what I have read, it is quite a bit like Solvaset. Solvaset is my

favorite decal solution. I am just adding #4 as something that you may want to either avoid or be quite

careful if you try it.

4. Champ Decal Set - This is NASTY, strong stuff. I don't even know if it's even made anymore. I have used it very

sparingly on the toughest of decals. I think it would melt waxed paper! Solvaset is strong enough. The only

reason I bought a jar of it was that someone had it amazingly cheap. I have hardly ever use it.

NOTE: Start with just water. Use distilled water if possible. I have no choice where I live, because the water in this area is chock, full of minerals, especially lime. If water doesn't work, use the above in order from 1 to 3. (You won't need #4, even if you can find it.) Don't apply the next solution until the prior one is dry for two reasons. First, you won't know if a solution works until it is dry. Second, if the decal is not dry, it may smear when you add the next solution. IMHO & FWIW, decals are what bring a model to life. Good Luck!!!

[wdw]

None of the suggestions above allow for the fact that not all decals are the same. The various brands of decals will react differently to the various brands of softener. So there is no one softener that works well all of the time. I always test a decal that I will not be using from the sheet by applying it to a spare part before starting on the real model. My first choice of softener is Micro Sol (not Micro Set, as that is more of a setting solution than a decal softener). If that doesn't work well, I will try other softeners.

[volzj]

None of the suggestions above allow for the fact that not all decals are the same. The various brands of decals will react differently to the various brands of softener. So there is no one softener that works well all of the time. I always test a decal that I will not be using from the sheet by applying it to a spare part before starting on the real model. My first choice of softener is Micro Sol (not Micro Set, as that is more of a setting solution than a decal softener). If that doesn't work well, I will try other softeners.

This...

Most Cartograf and Microscale decals are just fine with Micro Sol/Set. I only break out the Solvaset when necessary. Daco for example.

[balls47]

Hey There, wdw, I'm not trying to start a fuss here, just qualifying the posts prior to yours. Crazy Snap Captain asks about the strength of the decal solutions that he used on a certain brand of decals. That is what everyone gave him, use of his decals solutions and their strengths, and how they react to certain decals. You are absolutely right that not all decals are the same. In fact, some runs from the same company may not be the same. That's a very valid point, but I think that the guys that posted were trying to answer the question at hand. Again, wdw, I'm not trying to kick up a fuss about this. Applying decals has so many variables that books, articles, etc. have been written about the subject. You bring up very valid points, but, again, I think that the guys that posted were just trying to answer Crazy Snap Captain's answer. Thanks.

Edited July 29, 2013 by balls47

[Netz]

If you want to lessen the strength of a setting solution, just add a brush load of water.

Curt

[wdw]

Balls47, Yes, I see your point and no fuss created. I for sure wasn't slighting the other posts in any way. I just think that when talking about softener strengths, one must always consider the medium you are trying soften. So my intention was to give some further perspective to the discussion. I appreciate your comment and your "no fuss" style. Thank you.

[balls47]

Balls47, Yes, I see your point and no fuss created. I for sure wasn't slighting the other posts in any way. I just think that when talking about softener strengths, one must always consider the medium you are trying soften. So my intention was to give some further perspective to the discussion. I appreciate your comment and your "no fuss" style. Thank you.

Your welcome, sir. I am glad to see that things were taken like they should be, with modeling in mind. I spend most of my time on ARC because everyone gets along and has their fellow modellers in mind. I'm not beating up the other forums, because they also have the modeller in mind.

Things are well in the world of building models. AMEN!!!

[Mike C]

Try Tamiya Mark Fit. Been using it for a while now. Never experienced it melting any decals.