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I'm shopping for an Iwata airbrush for painting model aircraft and am looking for a recommendation. I see that they have many different types and models, so I'm trying to decide which one would be best. Should I go with gravity or bottle fed? Which model is best for this hobby? Thanks.

It all depends on what you want from it. Detail or large surfaces? Something in between?

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Large nozzle airbrushes are generally better at doing large surfaces, especially the ones that can do a fan patterned spray. But any large nozzle airbrush combined with a high capacity compressor will work.

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easier to clean, requires less air pressure, and you can work with even 1 drop of paint.

I second (or is it 3rd now) the gravity fed design.

I recommend the Iawata HP-C series. Also buy a spare needle and tip right away.

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I would say that either the HP-CR Revolution or the HP-CS Eclipse as a first Iwata. Both are very good choices for modellers. Not that the HP-C+ isn't, but the Eclipse and Revolutions are more forgiving, and still competent enough for most users. Especially the CR might be a good starting point if you at this moment mostly do large cover work. Combine later with a small nozzle airbrush, like a HP-B+ or similar, it would last a lifetime of even the most picky modeller.

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I would say that either the HP-CR Revolution or the HP-CS Eclipse as a first Iwata. Both are very good choices for modellers. Not that the HP-C+ isn't, but the Eclipse and Revolutions are more forgiving, and still competent enough for most users. Especially the CR might be a good starting point if you at this moment mostly do large cover work. Combine later with a small nozzle airbrush, like a HP-B+ or similar, it would last a lifetime of even the most picky modeller.

How are the Eclipse and Revolution more forgiving than the HP-C+?

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How are the Eclipse and Revolution more forgiving than the HP-C+?

The Revolution has a 0.5mm nozzle, that makes it less picky about paint thinning ratios.

The Eclipse has a 0.35mm nozzle, which is quite close to the HP-C's, but it can be equipped with a 0.5mm one instead. And the assembly and disassembly of the Eclipse is considered to be quite much easier, since the nozzle part is a lot larger than other Iwata airbrushes.

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I would also advise the Revolution CR or Eclipse HP-CS - both perfectly capable & reliable airbrushes.

Asked to pick between the two I would plump for the Eclipse HP-CS as the "drop-in" nozzle arrangement is more user friendly than the screw in system of the Revolution series. In addition, if you wanted to go for the additional needle / nozzle option, this a fair bit cheaper with the Eclipse & doesn't involve messing about with the needle seal when you want to change from one set to another as it would with the Revolution!

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Take note of the tip sizes, .5 is huge and will not get real fine lines, .35 is the most common and useful size tip, it can go up to 1/2 inch and down to 1/32 if your paint is mixed properly, the extra fine heads are in the .2 range, they are sensitive to air pressure and thinning ratios, you cannot push allot of pressure or the paint will just bubble up in the cup, but when thinned properly they will shoot very fine lines.

I use an HP-CS and it works fine, not much I can't do with it, but I can also match it's performance with my Badger 100 side feed.

I'd really like to get the new Badger Krome, it comes with 2 tips a .35 and .2, not to steer you in another direction, but it is a comparable brush and can be found a little cheaper than most Iwatas.

Curt

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One thing I see on the BR that I don't like is the tip is integral to the body of the A/B, which will make through cleaning of the paint chamber in the brush body very difficult, I'd rather be able to pull the tip completely out of the body as the HP's are and then you can easily slide a cleaning brush into the body clear back to the needle packing.

Curt

Parts #3 and #5

Revolution_Schem.gif

Parts #4

Eclipse_Schematic_Newer.gif

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Then I'd stick with the Eclipse series, to clean the other models you are dependent on the cleaning fluids to remove the paint from the body, being able to remove the tip would give better/easier access to the body if you had a bad paint mix that formed any type of clog, being able to run a brush up there to manually remove paint is a much better option.

Curt

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Then I'd stick with the Eclipse series, to clean the other models you are dependent on the cleaning fluids to remove the paint from the body, being able to remove the tip would give better/easier access to the body if you had a bad paint mix that formed any type of clog, being able to run a brush up there to manually remove paint is a much better option.

Curt

I don't have any problem cleaning there. Get a good cleaning kit, and it will contain brushes of the right size.

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I m using the Eclips HP-CS and it s a very good airgun! Easy to clean (I use the airbrush cleaner from Revell, a good stuff), after a few jobs I disassamble the airbrush for cleaning, otherwise I just spray a certain amount of cleaner through and let remain a bit of clean cleaner inside not to get dry in the system. That works very well.

You can do the preshading quite fine and also the paiting of the surface over the preshading, no problem!

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Needle size is nothing but a marketing statement. You can get fine lines with a .5 needle with practice.

Must say that it isn't really that easy. Properly thinned paint, and low enough pressure can give millimetre thin lines even with quite large nozzles. But, the really fine nozzles are better at it, and can make remarkably thin lines.

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