Moisture trap questions and replacement parts

[Janissary]

Hi, I have an Iwata Sprint Jet, which has been great so far. More moisture than usual has started to build up though. Last night, I disassembled the trap to see its inner workings and the parts. Here is a picture of the original:

Can you explain the mechanics behind how the moisture trap works? There is an adjustable bleed valve at the bottom, so air does get pushed through that chamber. This is indeed how I adjust air pressure anyway. I usually observe condensation/big droplets at the bottom and around the walls of it. My question is with regards to the yellowish part pointed out in the image above. This is a hard, plastic-like material. Is this supposed to be the part that traps the moisture, like silica gel? If so, does this part need to be replaced every so often? I have never done so for 7 years now.

If this kind of an absorbent material is not the main mechanism with which moisture is trapped, can you explain how it generally works and how to make it more effective? I prefer not to add another trap close to the airbrush side of the hose, as I don't know how to avoid it from getting it in the way of airbrushing.

Thanks

[balls47]

Yessir, Are you having trouble with moisture getting through and onto your models? I have a moisture trap similar to yours that is attached at the compressor. I replaced my old one. It also had that "stuff" like yours does, but it was an older, used one to start with. There are some things that I do in addition to the moisture trap that help with moisture. Because of these things, I don't have an inline trap. They are:

1. I use an air compressor with a tank. In fact, it has double "hot-dog" tanks. It's a small Campbell Hausfeld

compressor that was built for hobby use. Tanks help when it comes to keeping moisture out of your air lines.

Just make sure that you drain the moisture out of your air tanks. I can't tell if that is a tank or not on

your compressor.

2. Use a braided hose. They are much better at keeping the moisture down than the vinyl hoses like the one that

it looks like you have.

3. Keep your moisture down in your work area, if you are inside. Try and keep it at 60% or lower.

[compressorman]

The white thing in the moisture trap is merely a filter. The way it works is that moisture tends to condense in the bowl of the trap and run down to the bottom of the bowl where it can be removed through the little valve on the bottom. An air tank will do much towards helping to get the moisture out of the air because it gives the hot compressed air a chance to cool off. When the air cools is when the moisture tends to form.

[davevw]

The white thing in the moisture trap is merely a filter. The way it works is that moisture tends to condense in the bowl of the trap and run down to the bottom of the bowl where it can be removed through the little valve on the bottom. An air tank will do much towards helping to get the moisture out of the air because it gives the hot compressed air a chance to cool off. When the air cools is when the moisture tends to form.

I use a rol-air ultra quiet compressor, http://www.jccayer.com/product.php?productid=4260. then turn the output pressure to 50 psi, then I use a 50ft hose (this gives me lots of length for other projects and cools the air. This then runs to a second regulator and moisture trap that runs to my little airbrush hose to my paasche. This compressor is super quiet, even less than my old badger compressor with a nice size tank to boot!

[Janissary]

Thank you very much to all of you for this info. I have lowered the pressure and opened up the bleed valve even further. That has seemed to work well for now.

[pookie]

Moisture traps work by swirling the air violently. The heavier water molecules get thrown out to the walls while the lighter air molecules continue down the path. It also helps to cool the air, as cooler air condensates the finer water molecules that make it past the swirl. I have built several moisture traps or separators by using metal pipe and elbows.

Edited October 9, 2013 by pookie

[J-10]

a tank has so many advantages, look in the classified ads, find a cheap shop compressor with a tank who's compressor motor has died. Throw away the dead motor and hook your compressor to the tank...:)

[phasephantomphixer]

Tanks are best, but if you continue with the compressor/filter combo. and are concerned with filter located down your line (where it is most effective) locate the compressor where you can reach it (if the power switch is attached-mine is on the floor under the desk) run your airline away and around the back wall, back up the other side under the desk, mount the filter/moisture trap to the side of the desk just below your workbench, and have the airline come out with enough length to be able to maneuver your airbrush and reach your holder, etc. I was able to do this so nothing is in the way, plus it frees up the area. If you locate everything within reach, you can turn comp. on/off and purge moisture, continue working.

[Janissary]

Thank you very much all. Very good pieces of information. The separation of vapor through swirling was the kind of mechanics I wanted to know. I know an analogous centrifugal systems are used for filtering and particle separation, so I guess this makes sense.