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Hi all.

I know there are others out there just like me who are terrified by the thought of having to apply a NMF on a model.

There are tons of options out there, Testors Metalizer, Tamiya's AS-12, SnJ powders and of course Alclad. And while these

when well applied give excellent results, they are not for the faint of heart.

I'm not saying that this thecnique more realistic or will get you the OOOHHH AHHHHs that you see in shows, but if you are

looking for a quick and good looking fix read on.

So recently Citadel Games workshop changed their formulas and confused everyone on what it what, I had used their Mithril Silver on some smaller projects with nice results.

but when it came time to paint my Tamiya 1/32 Mustang i was skeptical.I had read bits and pieces around the web regarding the use of Citadel Acrylics for NMF but I haven't found anyone that had used the new formulas yet.

After researching the new colors i settled on Runefang Steel and Ironbreaker both "Layers". they are rather thick paints so I thinned them with Tamiya Acrylic Thinner about 1 to 1.

First I painted the entire model Runefang Steel, after 24 hours I masked some Panels of with sticky notes (unlike Alclads this stuff doesn't fly everywhere so you can mask loosely) and used a mix of 1-1 Runefang and Iron breaker.

Once dried, I sprayed a very diluted mist of the runefang with varying coverage on different panels to give each random hues.

cb7q.jpg

bify.jpg

rr5w.jpg

Tell me what you think please!

Any comments or tips are welcomed!

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That certainly looks excellent!

Do you or anyone else know if the Citadel paints can be polished?

Actually Citadel Mitril Silver is really shiny as it is: more shiny if brush painted than with airbrush. High diluition ratio with water lets the surface tension work great.

I only once tried buffing, but to be safe you need some graphite powder that acts as lubricating agent. No idea with other compounds.

@Pep: fantastic looking finish, with interesting shades. If I may suggest: lay down some semigloss clear on the wing from the leading edge to the spar, both sides.

Regards

Euge

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Thanks you all for the complements!

Eugen, I haven't decided what finish yet, in the pictures of the Actual aircraft the metal looks almost flat while color parts are semi-gloss or gloss.

have a look. any suggestions are appreciated.

cvki.jpg

0141tif.jpg

Edited by Pep
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Those look like they are quite "old" aircraft, and the aluminum is heavily oxidized. If you intend to model one of these, you might want to experiment adding a tiny amount of white to the silver. As far as gloss, something a little glossier than an eggshell finish would probably be about right: shiny enough to reflect a glare in strong light, but otherwise on the dull side.

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Have you tried using something like SNJ aluminum powder to shine them up? Might be worth an experimental try on an old paint mule model... I wish somebody near me carried the Citadel stuff.

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You don't have any good comic book shops near you that deal in the gaming miniatures and such? That's the only type place around my area that carries them.

If you find the very center of the map of Nowhere, I'm very near it.

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If you ca get your hands on HC's p-51 shark mouths it has a bunch of Latin american options including the Dominicans.

Decals are not great but they do the job, this is my 1/48 tamiya P-51 using the Hobby Craft decals.

snb10173.jpg

Hobby%20Cra%20HC1516%20P-51Da.JPG

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If you find the very center of the map of Nowhere, I'm very near it.

They do sell online. There are two hobby shops within twenty miles of where I live. With traffic and congestion, it takes a minimum of an hour to get to either one—only to find they happen to be out of stock for what I need. While I want to support LHS's, time is precious, though a phone call can save some frustration. Driving in Ch'cagalandt is similar to air combat, only in two dimensions, but with a much higher number of threats.

I envy your remoteness.:tumble:/>

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If you ca get your hands on HC's p-51 shark mouths it has a bunch of Latin american options including the Dominicans.

Decals are not great but they do the job, this is my 1/48 tamiya P-51 using the Hobby Craft decals.

snb10173.jpg

Pep, that is freakin' gorgeous!:thumbsup:/>

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Great looking finish!

What colour did you use as a "base"? When I read the Citadel site, they say to use a base colour first, followed by the "layer" (Runefangsteel or other). Did you use a primer, or a colour from Citadel? Or nothing at all?

I like the look of the finish, and I like the price I see on their site. How much did you use of a jar, on your 1/32 Mustang? Could you do 2 or 3 of these with one container, or you used most of it?

ALF

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I've got both old and new formula, but haven't yet used the new one (old one not completely used up yet). The new formula smelled like alcohol, while the old one didn't, so I always suspected that the new formula may be thinnable with X-20A. Nice to have someone confirm it is indeed the case. :thumbsup:

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Jf. I took it to my club meeting today and it was handled and passed around and still look good :)

Alf: I used rune fang as the base color no primer needed.

Glad it's helping people out.

I got the masks today so I will work in it this week. I will poser pics of the progress.

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Gutsy move trying a new paint on such a nice kit - really turned out great though!

Could you post close up pictures of the bottles? I'd have to order them - and knowing the stock number for the "New" formula would be helpful, as I'm sure more stock of the "old" is around.

Hitch

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Just out of curiosity, how do you get the Citadel paint into the airbrush cup? I find it is very thick from the container. With other brands, such as Tamiya and Model Master, I can use a pipette to get the paint out, but the Citadel seems too thick for that.

Stacey

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Just out of curiosity, how do you get the Citadel paint into the airbrush cup? I find it is very thick from the container. With other brands, such as Tamiya and Model Master, I can use a pipette to get the paint out, but the Citadel seems too thick for that.

Stacey

I'd thin it first in spare paint bottle ready to use, rather than mixing in the airbrush cup. In fact, I always pre-thin all my paint in spare bottles.

As far as Citadel paint goes, I know it's very very thick. It's even quite hard to get the paint out of its bottle. Can't use pipette, in most cases. What I do is I tip the paint into little measuring cup that normally comes with cough syrup (or children's Panadol), add thinner (I use demineralized water to thin Citadel), stir, then tip into spare paint bottle.

BTW, the new formula Citadel paints appear to be much thinner than the old formula, so pipette should work with these new ones.

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