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Battery operated paint shakers


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Saw this Robart hobby paint shaker on ebay and got excited. Still, something tells me there may be downsides to using this.

Will there be alot of bubbles in the paint after i have used this device? Anyone with experience with this/these types of devices? Just curious.

Edited by breadneck
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I have a paint shaker that's powered by numerous tiny Adenosine Triphosphate-powered cells. It's attached to the end of my arm.

At - according to some sources - 5000 shakes per minute you must be quite the fast type. ;-)

I was skeptical at first, but after seeing this video, I see a certain chance that this thing might work. Question is - can it withstand the strain when being used with heavier glass jars? How long until the plastic arm snaps?

Cheers

Thorsten

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Where is it written that paint has to be shaken 5000 (or even 500) times a minute? I just laugh at these things. Is there ANY improvement in the function of the paint if it's stirred, shaken by hand, or put into a $50 paint shaker that uses batteries that pollute the environment during their production and after they're discarded?

Answer: Nope.

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I`ve been after one of these for a long time, so it was a relief to see they actually existed (i have a bad albow)

Now i don`t own a car, and never did. I just ride my bicycle:) Maybe i could be justified in buying one as i am not

spewing out too much carbonmonoxide into my local environment. The reason i am after a battery operated one, rely on

the fact that these things seem to operate in or around the same voltage as your bionic arm (115V) Still haven`t gotten any

input on the paints though..will they become too bubbly or wah..hat?

Edited by breadneck
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Where is it written that paint has to be shaken 5000 (or even 500) times a minute? I just laugh at these things. Is there ANY improvement in the function of the paint if it's stirred, shaken by hand, or put into a $50 paint shaker that uses batteries that pollute the environment during their production and after they're discarded?

Answer: Nope.

Although I have no intend to defend that machine, at least the battery argument can easily be repelled with the use of rechargeable batteries (on some pictures it looked like there is a power adapter available.

I think it is the same with this machine as with many things - they are not really necessary, but can be quite usefull.

Cheers

Thorsten

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Stirred, not shaken…

There are four problems with shaking to disperse hobby paints:

  1. Air bubbles. You will entrain a lot of them. This changes both apparent viscosity and volume, making proper thinning for airbrush use problematical, and forget brush painting. Air is also the enemy of liquid paint.
  2. Shaking disperses paint by cavitation. Adequate cavitation depends on an adequate volume, which does not exist in a jar of hobby paint. Ergo, it isn't efficient, especially for a paint that has settled. Adding an agitating bead or two helps, but you have to remove them afterward, especially if you use something like a BB. The copper coating will affect the paint over time, and with acrylics, both the copper and the underlying steel will corrode. The agitating balls in rattle cans are steel, but none of the components inside the can have the potential to corrode or otherwise react with them.
  3. You cannot tell whether or not you have completely dispersed the pigment in the paint.
  4. You can actually damage the pigment in some metallic paints.

Stirring produces none of these problems. I know of only one hobby paint that must be shaken and is not harmed by the process, and it has been discontinued by the manufacturer.

(And no, the name is not "Bond.")

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Stirred, not shaken…

There are four problems with shaking to disperse hobby paints:

  1. [*]Air bubbles. You will entrain a lot of them. This changes both apparent viscosity and volume, making proper thinning for airbrush use problematical, and forget brush painting. Air is also the enemy of liquid paint.

Just had that problem yesterday with Vallejo Modellair. As nice as those bottles are, the opening is too small to stir them.

[*]Stirring produces none of these problems.

But that inherits the risk of splashing the paint if some real thick pigment blob on the jar bottom suddenly comes loose. Been there, done that,

killed a rather nice T-shirt and jeans.

As with most topics - ask 3 scale modelers and get 5 different opinions :-D

Cheers

Thorsten

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Just had that problem yesterday with Vallejo Modellair. As nice as those bottles are, the opening is too small to stir them.

But that inherits the risk of splashing the paint if some real thick pigment blob on the jar bottom suddenly comes loose. Been there, done that,

killed a rather nice T-shirt and jeans.

As with most topics - ask 3 scale modelers and get 5 different opinions :-D

Cheers

Thorsten

I pried the dropping tip off and stirred.

Just wait till the "secure" cap on a bottle comes off in the shaker.

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Shaking is perfectly acceptable with Acrylic paints.

If you use a Hematite bead instead of copper you don't have to worry about corrosion.

If the bottle comes with the proper cap,,,or if you buy the proper caps, you don't have to worry about "dried paint sticking the caps on too tight". The proper caps come on LifeColor paints, and the other type we can buy came on Talon paints. They are a "drip back" design, with two different methods of keeping the paint off of the jar lip and the threads.

If you displace the air in the bottle every time you close it with exhaled breath or CO2 from a can,,,,,,,there is no free Oxygen inside the bottle to react with the paint. If you run a quick bead of Chapstick on the threads, you don't need much torque to open a jar, and even if some paint does somehow get out there and dry, the jar still opens with no tools more heavy than a pair of rubber palmed cleaning gloves.

and lastly, I don't use a powered shaker product, but I do use a "foam noodle" split and mounted on a large circle, that I can swing back and forth with a handle,,,,,,,this puts less strain on my arthritic shoulder and wrist on my right side,,,,,I just swish the handle I made back and forth, and shake 20 bottles of paint at once for a project,,,,then you stir the color gently as you paint with that batch of bottles, the bubbles from shaking are settling out on color 4 while you are using color 1, or settling on color 15 while painting with color 8, etc.

I know, I know,,,,,"paint is ruined by shaking",,,,,but, I switched to Acrylics 3 years ago,,the first bottle of paint is as good as the 600th bottle,,,,,and the shaken bottles of Enamels I gave to another modeler were 15 years old in some cases,,,,,and were still good

your mileage may vary, (especially if you skip some of the steps)

I hope this is of help

Edited by Rex
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I stuck a finishing nail into a Wal Mart fingernail sander,,,,,it stirs the paint very well, also,,,just swap the rechargable batteries fairly often

It works as a replacement for the hand-numbing "hold a small stick in your fingers and swirl until your hand hurts" method

I do need to say,,,,,that after taking the time to type out anything,,,,it is very tempting to just delete all posts when the "sticking the tongue out" smiley comes out,,,,,if it means the same thing online as it did in grade school, that is

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OK someone ask about this before and the best answer ive sen it

"This is a Murphy's law waiting to happen"

On a serious side

i got myself a tatoo ink stirer that uses 2 AA batteries (same one in there for more than a year) LINK Fun part is that you can stack those black pins to reach deep jars.

I find it slow enouph that it dosent make bubles (i use Humbrol and MM enamels) i finish up with tamiya stirring stick just to make sure there nothing stuck to the sides (i also use it to put my paint in my AB)

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