Seamless Intakes for the 1/72 Hasegawa Phantom

[Gene K]

I recently came across an ARC announcement of a new set of intakes for the venerable 1/72 Hasegawa Phantom. The producer, XMM, is from Russia and is currently in a running dispute with another resin master concerning copying. Since these 1/72 intakes are only available from one of them, I feel/am neutral in reviewing this product!

Background

I have for years been playing with seamless intakes for the many, many Hasegawa Phantoms that I have. My current method is simple, fast, and inexpensive, and I’ve used the same method (with revised patterns) for the 1/72 Fujimi and Monogram kits, as well as Phantoms in other scales

However, that method can’t replicate the duct’s inside curved surfaces,

so I was excited to see a new set of 1/72 intakes (others have come and gone) that appeared very accurate. I ordered two "trial" sets – one US Navy and USAF, the difference being the correct engine faces (generator housing (bullet) and vanes). Also ordered a set for the 1/48 Academy kit.

Ordering

On-line processing through the well-designed web site was painless. I used PayPal and received email notifications of order receipt and product dispatch within a day. The package took 14 days to get to me in Florida, including a day “wasted” going to the post office (I wasn't at home to receive the signature-required package ....). Excellent.

Packaging

The intakes come in a sturdy box with inside padding, providing protection from all but the most persistent postal smasher. Excellent.

The Resin

The white resin is smooth, with no flaws such as bubble. It’s relatively soft and easy to cut and sand, with no tendency to chip or crack . Excellent!

(sorry this is upside down - Photobucket)

Instructions

A small, well-illustrated instruction sheet is included, but I had a small problem determining exactly where to cut the kit pieces. Get out your magnifying glass to study the cut lines. Also, some corrections and revision is needed! Good.

I'll split this review up into a total of four posts: 1) this one with background and kit contents; 2) accuracy, fit, and assembly; 3) conclusions; and 4) bonus.

Gene K

Edited November 12, 2013 by Gene K

[Gene K]

Accuracy

Not surprisingly, the outside of the intakes are (almost ) a copy of the Hasegawa parts, but there's a minor problem ... Good

Fit

My preliminary tape together showed a “pretty good” fit (not any better than the kit intakes which are known for the step on the rear top where they join the fuselage). Very Good.

Problem

Something just didn't look right, so out came the reference photos and drawings (Jennings: please no lecture about how unreliable they all are).

Here's the real deal:

And here's the first trial fit:

Sure enough, the resin splitter leading edge was about 1mm too far forward, throwing off its relationship to panel lines and the cockpit (for example covering the step panel and canopy open buttons).

Additionally, the locating pip on the inside intake piece didn't fit into the kit's locating hole – it was off about 1mm, the same distance that intake was too long (hmmmm...). The easy solution – cut off the pip, assemble as shown in the directions, and and take what you get (above) if that’s “good enough” for you.

If you have Phantom AMS like me, read on.

Assembly (The AMS Solution)

The “challenge” is on the aft end of the resin intake – it’s a little less than 1mm too long.

OK

NOT good

Definitely not good.

The easiest fix is resin surgery with a razor saw and sharp Xacto - easy:

After the offending excess is cut off, a lot of “niggling and fettling” (thanks Britmodeler) on the kit plastic is necessary to effect a perfect fit.

That's enough for one sitting -- the splitter needs a little fixing also to effect a better line up ...I'll continue with that in the next post.

Gene K

Edited October 28, 2013 by Gene K

[Gene K]

More Assembly and Conclusions

OK - to carry on with some more AMS ....

Assembly (con't)

Before getting to the splitters/vari ramps, here are the last assembly pictures:

Note that the "cut away" on the kit's bottom is only for illustrative purposes - not required!

Another note: Contrary to the instructions, I did not assemble the fuselage nose pieces (sides and bottom) since my "standard" Hasegawa build sequence is to assemble each fuselage side separately and then join them. The nose gear well piece and wings are not glued on in the above picture.

And speaking of instructions, suggest these corrections:

to avoid the triangular hole (#4) in the picture below:

Yet another note, this one off-topic: #3 above shows where Hasegawa failed to engrave the second step panel and the boarding ladder. The step panels are spring loaded so that when the pilot exits the cockpit and pushes the lower one in with his boot, he/she depresses a button that releases the steps. From the ground, the button can also be pushed down by hand to extend the steps, allowing a climb to the canopy buttons to open them.

As regards #2, here's what the junction of the splitter and intake looks like:

To rectify the gap shown at #2, I trimmed "a little" from the end of the splitter where it attaches to the intake (not ideal). However, this can/should be avoided by trimming the resin piece to which the splitter attaches before assembly!!!!

Last note since we're talking about trial-fitting: Don't forget to make a pattern of the locating holes inside the kit intakes, and transfer these holes for the total temperature sensor (see first picture in post #1) and the ECM (if appropriate to your model) to the inside of the resin intakes.

OK, on to the splitters themselves: #1 above shows that the splitter position still isn't quite right - yet. That's intentional since the gap at #2 should be closed as shown above, thus moving the splitters aft ... additionally, the resin splitters are fractionally too wide, so trimming the front as shown below will result in a perfect position!! (yes, I know, trivial, but it all makes scale sense).

Now that I figured out how to fix the problem, the other intake set set will install much faster. So in the end, here's my intake. Sorry I wan't able to capture the complete view down the intake, but it looks great!!

Recommendations

For XMM:

1. Adjust the resin pattern - shorten the rear of the intake and trim the splitter front.

2. Revise instructions – include a diagram showing, in plan view, where to make cuts, and correct the cut lines.

For Modelers:

For AMS types like myself, arm yourself with some good razor saws, files and sanding sticks. A Dremel with sanding discs will also be helpful.

Conclusion

These are wonderful sets that really elevate the Hasegawa Phantoms, and I heartily recommend them ... however, AMS types can enjoy making some easy "adjustments". I’ll definitely order more sets, but hope at some point that the manufacturer fixes the patterns and instructions. As such, it’s a very good product that just misses being a great product.

Gene K

Edited October 29, 2013 by Gene K

[Gene K]

Bonus

As much as I love the 1/72 Hasegawa Phantoms, I also have a long relationship with the Monogram/Accurate Miniatures kit ... which has one of the same challenges as the Hasehawa kit - namely the intakes. Since I do Monogram intakes in a way similar to Hasegawa, I naturally had to try the new resin intakes on the Monogram kit.

I was "pleasantly surprised" to find that the intakes are easier to install and actually fit better on the Monogram kit!!!!!

My first cut line wasn't very well thought out as can be seen in the next two shots shots.

Opps .... too far forward.

The revised cut. The two marks on the canopy sill is where the splitter leading edge should position.

Splitter even with first mark. Trimmimg the leading edge and closing the gap where it meets the intake will line up to the second mark.

Summary: Trim the resin intake inside piece per the Has instructions in post 3, and cut off the locating pip on that part. Cut the Monogram intakes, and then cut wing bottom as shown in last pic above. Insert new resin intake ...

Done!

The intakes fit far better into the Monogram kit than the Hasegawa!!! Yes, there’s a raised/sunken panel line mismatch, but to my eye, the seamless intakes are worth it!!

Gene K

Edited October 30, 2013 by Gene K

[janman]

Waiting for more, Gene! Excellent stuff!

[Av8fan]

Looking forward to the review. Thank you for posting the link to your current method. Very informative.

[Milo]

Good stuff! Thanks Gene!

[Gene K]

Milo and janman - great to hear from you again!

And thanks Av8fan.

I added post #3, and will do #4 (Bonus) tomorrow.

Gene K

[dinozavr]

Dear Gene

Thanks for the great review and useful recommendations. Of course, in the next editions I will fix all the flaws, which you have indicated in your review

Sincerely,

Alexander, XMM

Edited October 29, 2013 by dinozavr

[Sebastijan]

I have an IRIAF Phantom waiting to be build next year and these will be of much help. Thank you for the walkthrough.

[Gene K]

Thank you for the walkthrough.

Glad you found it useful! Looking forward to seeing your build.

I just added post #4 to show what can be done to the Monogram kit's intakes.

Gene K

[Rex]

clever trick using the F-4C bottom part on the F-4J fuselage,,,,,it helps give contrast (unless that is the seldom seen Matchbox boxing of the Monogram parts?,,,,LOL)

once we get an easy to use distribution into the States and UK, etc, these should sell like hotcakes

[Gene K]

... unless that is the seldom seen Matchbox boxing of the Monogram parts?,,,,LOL)

Funny, Rex!!

Yes, I thought the contrast in plastic color would better show the parts (I haven't tuned my Galaxy cell phone camera to minimize washout). As regards the gray Monogram F-4J parts: as you know, the Accurate Miniatures moldings for both the C and J models are gray, but I sought out those ugly green/OD-plastic Monogram C models because (among other things), after the model is painted, the panel lines can be brought out by carefully going over the raised lines with a curved Xacto blade, exposing the dark plastic. Monogram did an excellent job on those panels!

... once we get an easy to use distribution into the States and UK, etc, these should sell like hotcakes

Well, like I said in post #1, the ordering/shipping from Russia was painless, and the two week wait was tolerable, so not sure what a distributor would add, except cost. As for hotcakes, I'm a little disappointed there isn't more interest - at least with the local folks to whom I've shown the intakes.

Gene K

[Mizar]

72th version is sold out?

Right now that I managed to find a decent Lizard decal for the Area 88 Phantom?

[Gene K]

... in the next editions I will fix all the flaws,....

Not really much to fix.

Thanks for posting, Alexander -- that's great customer support!

Gene K

[Gene K]

72th version is sold out?

Unfortunate and frustrating (being out of stock on popular items reminds me of his competition). I doubt that these (apparently) small operators can keep up with demand if they have a good product, a good web set up, and free publicity as on ARC.

Gene K

[Gene K]

Double post - deleted.

Edited October 8, 2014 by Gene K

[dinozavr]

Unfortunate and frustrating (being out of stock on popular items reminds me of his competition). I doubt that these (apparently) small operators can keep up with demand if they have a good product, a good web set up, and exposure as on ARC.

Gene K

Here another reason.

Over time until there were no intakes on sale, the flaws were fixed. Production of previous intakes was stopped. Currently, new molds are ready, and in the next few days its will be on sale again

Alexander

[Gene K]

Production of previous intakes was stopped. Currently, new molds are ready,

Thanks, that's outstanding! I'll be checking to place my new order.

Gene K

[JFVicente]

Hi Gene! Your excelent review make me buy to sets of this items, as I have been long time waiting for this improvement for my Phantoms. BTW, they only took a week to arrive to Spain from Russia. An excelent service, congrats to the makers.

Have a pointing/question: instead of trimming the splitter plates to correct the excesive lenght , one can use the original kit parts or not?

On the other hand, have you tryied this sets on the Fujimi kits? Could be interesting too...

Greetings from Spain.

Juan

Edited November 11, 2013 by JFVicente

[Hoops]

Once they are back and available for sale, I will be picking up a couple of sets. Congratulations on being responsive to constructive feedback, and what looks to be a quality product.

Cheers,

Hoops

[Gene K]

... instead of trimming the splitter plates to correct the excesive lenght , one can use the original kit parts or not?

Yes, Juan, but you'd miss out on the excellent detail on the end of the nice resin pieces. The trimming just takes a couple of seconds and definitely worth the small effort to get the detail!

...have you tryied this sets on the Fujimi kits?

Not yet, but I had intended a trial fit but ran out of time. I have a Fujimi fuselage ready, though, and will post the results tomorrow.

Gene K

[Gene K]

... have you tryied this sets on the Fujimi kits?

Hello Juan,

Below is the fit for the Fujimi kit ... and also the Revell kit. A couple of points applicable to both:

First: I didn't trim any of the resin pieces, so the splitters end up positioned too far forward as with the Hasegawa and Monogram kits. The manufacturer is revising the patterns so the next iteration should be better in that regard.

Second, The cuts and trimming required are the same as shown in the instructions for the Hasegawa kit for which the intakes are designed.

Here's the Fujimi Kit:

Not that great, requiring a good bit of fitting, trimming and gap-filling. The problem with the positioning is in part with the Fujimi kit because the canopies are not properly sized.

Here's the Revell Kit:

Much, much better fit than Fujimi. Of course the intakes sit low, but that's because the Revell kit is so poor in the canopy area, in particular the low, squashed profile.

In summary - I'm not a fan of either the Fujimi or Revell 1/72 Phantom kits, but the XMM resin intakes will add A LOT to either kit without too much effort. If I were to build either, I'd definitely add the resin intakes.

Gene K

Edited November 12, 2013 by Gene K