MiG Hunter Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 This might be an old topic but once and for all, is priming "a must" before airbrushing? If so, should we use primer straight from the can or decant it and airbrush it? Can we skip priming all together and prep the model with a plastic prep liquid like Testors Plastic-Prep to remove oil and dust before airbrushing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 This is a good question but there exists no definitive answer. "It depends" is the short version. The longer version requires specific examples: 1) lots of seam finishing, putty, recountouring- probably yes 2) Some more fragile acrylics (MM, lifecolor)-probably yes 3) laquer based metalizers -yes, required for some 4) resin or PE- probably yes 5) Tamiya kits washed with dishsoap and dried- probably no 6) Trumpeter kits-probably yes 7) Lots of masking and colors painted over one another, probably yes 8) most enamels, probably no All that said, there are modeler's who never prime and do fine and some who feel its a must. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britaholic Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I'll go with 8. I use enamels and do not prime, I just make sure that the plastic surface is clean and smooth. Cheers Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I also use enamels and all I do is wash the complete model in warm soapy water, dry off, undercoat the entire model using a Light Grey Matt enamel then a very light rub down with 6000 grade micromesh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rex Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 this is one of those ask 20 guys and you get 20 different answers type of questions I primed when I used enamels and I prime now with Acrylics As for whether you *need* to or not,,,,guys that prime don't ask online very often "why didn't my paint stick?",,,,,only guys that don't prime ever ask that (unless the guy that primes made some mistake) I have never read "I wish I hadn't primed that model, the paint stuck so well to it" But, full disclosure,,,,I wash, build, wash, prime, paint, wash, decal, spot-wash, and then clear overcoat (each washing is for a different possible contaminant) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viscount806x Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Never primed a single model when I was a lad back in the 195...... Why prime? If you want a seamless,flawless surface then you will have to work it with Micro Mesh or equivalent. How will you know if it is indeed a good surface? Grey (sorry, GRAY) primer (or another colour if you prefer) shows up any imperfections beautifully. Now if you are using metallic paint as a topcoat, any imperfections will show up like a dirty shirt collar. Priming/rubbing/priming/rubbing will avoid disappointment. A good reason to prime, therefore... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Air-Craft Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 Used to prime, but now generally don't & as long as everything is cleaned / wiped down properly before painting I can't say that I've had a problem with adhesion. There is the odd exception when a bad combination of plastic colour & paint with poor hide are going together, but that's it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
J-10 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 priming is not necessary but it's good to spray a coat of light grey to see any imperfections. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viscount806x Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 priming is not necessary but it's good to spray a coat of light grey to see any imperfections. What I said Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galileo1 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 This is a good question but there exists no definitive answer. "It depends" is the short version. The longer version requires specific examples: 1) lots of seam finishing, putty, recountouring- probably yes 2) Some more fragile acrylics (MM, lifecolor)-probably yes 3) laquer based metalizers -yes, required for some 4) resin or PE- probably yes 5) Tamiya kits washed with dishsoap and dried- probably no 6) Trumpeter kits-probably yes 7) Lots of masking and colors painted over one another, probably yes 8) most enamels, probably no All that said, there are modeler's who never prime and do fine and some who feel its a must. Best answer I've ever seen on this! You covered pretty much everything. Good job! Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 (edited) Well, personally, I am going to say "YES," no matter what. Always prime. A uniform coat of a neutral color primer is the best way to discover flaws in body work. It is one extra step that will help increase your build quality. It will also fill in very minor sanding scratches you may have left. Let me ask this...Why not prime? Edited November 16, 2013 by DutyCat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 I don't prime 80% of the time. I would prime some parts that would get somewhat translucent paint, or for show birds. I never prime normal line birds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old Blind Dog Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Mr. Toad nails it! His response should be pinned. cheers Old Blind Dog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randypandy831 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) I prime all builds because it helps me spot imperfections like seams,scratches,and putty work. priming is a MUST when using MM acrylics. Edited November 18, 2013 by randypandy831 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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