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Is Priming Really Necessary?


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This might be an old topic but once and for all, is priming "a must" before airbrushing? If so, should we use primer straight from the can or decant it and airbrush it?

Can we skip priming all together and prep the model with a plastic prep liquid like Testors Plastic-Prep to remove oil and dust before airbrushing?

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This is a good question but there exists no definitive answer. "It depends" is the short version.

The longer version requires specific examples:

1) lots of seam finishing, putty, recountouring- probably yes

2) Some more fragile acrylics (MM, lifecolor)-probably yes

3) laquer based metalizers -yes, required for some

4) resin or PE- probably yes

5) Tamiya kits washed with dishsoap and dried- probably no

6) Trumpeter kits-probably yes

7) Lots of masking and colors painted over one another, probably yes

8) most enamels, probably no

All that said, there are modeler's who never prime and do fine and some who feel its a must.

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I also use enamels and all I do is wash the complete model in warm soapy water, dry off, undercoat the entire model using a Light Grey Matt enamel then a very light rub down with 6000 grade micromesh.

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this is one of those ask 20 guys and you get 20 different answers type of questions

I primed when I used enamels and I prime now with Acrylics

As for whether you *need* to or not,,,,guys that prime don't ask online very often "why didn't my paint stick?",,,,,only guys that don't prime ever ask that (unless the guy that primes made some mistake)

I have never read "I wish I hadn't primed that model, the paint stuck so well to it"

But, full disclosure,,,,I wash, build, wash, prime, paint, wash, decal, spot-wash, and then clear overcoat (each washing is for a different possible contaminant)

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Never primed a single model when I was a lad back in the 195......

Why prime? If you want a seamless,flawless surface then you will have to work it with Micro Mesh or equivalent. How will you know if it is indeed a good surface? Grey (sorry, GRAY) primer (or another colour if you prefer) shows up any imperfections beautifully. Now if you are using metallic paint as a topcoat, any imperfections will show up like a dirty shirt collar. Priming/rubbing/priming/rubbing will avoid disappointment. A good reason to prime, therefore...

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Used to prime, but now generally don't & as long as everything is cleaned / wiped down properly before painting I can't say that I've had a problem with adhesion. There is the odd exception when a bad combination of plastic colour & paint with poor hide are going together, but that's it.

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This is a good question but there exists no definitive answer. "It depends" is the short version.

The longer version requires specific examples:

1) lots of seam finishing, putty, recountouring- probably yes

2) Some more fragile acrylics (MM, lifecolor)-probably yes

3) laquer based metalizers -yes, required for some

4) resin or PE- probably yes

5) Tamiya kits washed with dishsoap and dried- probably no

6) Trumpeter kits-probably yes

7) Lots of masking and colors painted over one another, probably yes

8) most enamels, probably no

All that said, there are modeler's who never prime and do fine and some who feel its a must.

Best answer I've ever seen on this! You covered pretty much everything. Good job!

Rob

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Well, personally, I am going to say "YES," no matter what. Always prime. A uniform coat of a neutral color primer is the best way to discover flaws in body work. It is one extra step that will help increase your build quality. It will also fill in very minor sanding scratches you may have left.

Let me ask this...Why not prime?

Edited by DutyCat
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