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USS Excelsior NX-2000


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All this time, I thought my saucer masters were done. Turns out the profile for the upper master is slightly incorrect. The outer ring of the saucer at the base of the dome in NOT horizontal. It actually has a shallow gradient  from the base of the dome to the lip of the side wall. 

 

First, a vertical cut into the lip of the dome's base needs to be cut in...

 

 0906200139.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fi

 

0906200140.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fi

 

Here a paper template is being made to cut a 1.5mm thick by 1/2in wide ring. This will show how the fit is on the master, and determine if there needs to be any adjustments before cutting the styrene ring.

 

0908202026.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fi

 

Waiting on my styrene sheets to arrive. When the ring is cut, it will be shaped down to the outer edge in a shallow arching taper. Once the shaping is complete, this section of the skin has 2 recessed/grooved rings in its surface for detail. No special tools - still all by hand and drafting tools.

Edited by Vidar_710
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  • 3 weeks later...
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There was an issue with the profile of the top saucer master. One problem led to another, so I'm going to fix it.

 

The dome is too big, and it also has some issues with dips and valleys in its surface.

To fix it, I need to remove it.

0927201156

 

0927201939

 

The diameter is too big, so the required material to be removed is scribed in.

0927202018

 

After the excess material is removed, the dome was cemented onto a 1mm thick piece of sheet styrene to bring it back to its profile height.

0928202020

 

A hole was cut into the new base so resin can be poured in to strengthen to dome for the re-work process...

0928202031.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

The resin was poured in increments, then slosh cast to get the resin into every crevasse.

0928202032a.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

After all the resin was poured, I taped the hole closed, then hand roto cast it to coat all the inner surfaces with resin as much as possible. Just before the resin cured, I clamped the dome down on a flat surface to ensure it didn't warp from the heat of the curing resin.

At the top, you can see a scaled image trace of the dome's profile from the ILM Excelsior plans. From this, I'll make a screed blade to pull filler around the dome to level all the imperfections in the dome's surface.

Pics of that to come...

0928202133.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

 

Edited by Vidar_710
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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress on fixing the upper saucer's profile.

 

A ring cut from 1mm thick sheet styrene.

1004201752

 

The ring is cemented to a .5mm base of sheet styrene, then the downward taper is ground in by hand with a Dremel

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The ring is filled to smooth out its contour.

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... then sanded to shape.

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To correct to bad shape of the dome, as screed blade was made from scaled images of the original ILM Excelsior plans. You can see there's quite a bit of work to do.

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The first layer is always the roughest. Sever more passes will be needed to built up to the correct contour, and smooth it out with various grades of filling products.

1013201009

 

Quite a bit of work to do to get it refined.

 

Tracy

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After a few layers of the courser filler, it get a sanding to smooth it out.

1022201602.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Checking the domes contour against the screed blade to verify my progress.

1022201617.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

A creamier self leveling layer of filler is applied.

1022202312.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Then sanded smooth...

1023200147.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Red glazing filler is applied to fill scratches and shallow dips in the dome's surface.

1023200150.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

A stacking jig is installed to ensure everything falls into place correctly.

1023201344.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Resin is poured into the base of the saucer to help hold it shape, and give it strength for the vacuum forming process when pulling the part. 1023201351a_HDR.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

1023201352e_HDR.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

 

1023201405.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

After filling the saucer with a tad of over-fill to ensure the resin can be feathers into the hull shape, it is sanded to shape.

1030202018.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Now the new tapered lip ring is glued back into place. This will be filled and sanded to shape after it fully cures.

1030202125.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

More to come as I add the dome back on, then refine it back to the over-all upper hull.

 

Tracy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The remastering of the top half of the primary hull is finally finished.

 

Here, the layers and layers of screeded filler are shown after sanding to a smooth finish.

1103201557.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

First coat of primer to check for flaws.

1103201603.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

After several applications of sanding and primer layers, it's done. Here the screed blade is placed to show the new dome profile, and the edge ring now has its downward taper.

1104201512.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

 

Now on to another part of the ship. Perhaps the nacelle struts.

 

Tracy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Next up, giving these nacelle strut parts the drastic face lift they truly need...

1124200512.jpg

 

There is so much to re-shaped, and detail to be scratch built to get these right. Once I fix them, the new masters will be molded, then new casting will be made with brass tubing to route electric wiring. Steal rods will also to added within the new castings to provide strength and prevent sagging for years to come.

 

Tracy

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