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Masking cockpits before airbrushing


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One method I like is to gently stuff the cockpit with Kleenex. Be careful not to damage any small parts in the cockpit. Dampen the Kleenex very slightly with water if you are worried about the fuzz getting where you don't want it. (I usually don't bother.) You can add some tape at the edge if needed (just cover the canopy sill and let it overlap the tissue towards the inside). I like Tamiya tape for this purpose because it's low tack and easy to bend around curves. You don't have to create an "airtight seal" over the entire cockpit. Just get everything more or less covered with tissue and tape at the margins, then use good airbrush technique and don't blast your cockpit more than necessary to paint the adjacent fuselage. After the paint is dry carefully remove the tissue and tape with tweezers. Works for me.

Good luck!

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I cut pieces of sponge-foam to the size I need and stuff it in there. It xpands and holds tight,

This sponge foam is found in the cosmetic section. My wife uses it for applying makeup. One package will last you years and you can re-use the stuff. I also use it to mask wheel wells.

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I often use the canopy itself to mask the cockpit. With this technique I get a "twofer": I can mask the cockpit while painting the canopy frames along with the rest of the exterior. I attach the canopy temporarily using a thin "noodle" of blue tack along the edges that mate up with the fuselage and the windscreen.

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I usually mask my cockpits using three different methods:

- By installing the canopy itself, which then is masked as Thorsten suggested

- Masking tape cut into thin stips and filled from the cockpit rim toward the center

- Sealing the cockpit with Blue Tack

I haven't tried it yet, but windows or doors, as found on helicopters or large transport aircarft, could be masked with the tape method by attaching thin strips of tape to the sides of the window frame from the inside, and then closing the remainder by fitting a sized piece of tape or paper onto the tacky side of the strips. It is a tedious work, but I guess it is worth it.

Tape method on a 1/72 sale F-16:

Masking_1.jpg

And the Blue Tack method on a 1/144 scale F-16:

Masking_2.jpg

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I often use the canopy itself to mask the cockpit. With this technique I get a "twofer": I can mask the cockpit while painting the canopy frames along with the rest of the exterior. I attach the canopy temporarily using a thin "noodle" of blue tack along the edges that mate up with the fuselage and the windscreen.

What is this blue tack you speak of and where can I get it? I asked for it at my local Hobbytown, but they had no idea.

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It's called Bostik Blu Tack. You can find it at a stationery.

It's a sticky blue knedable compound. Sort of like modeling clay or PlayDoh. You can simply peel it off after painting.

It is available from different brands, but Blu Tack and Uhu Patafix are the brands ones I use.

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:D, I normally paint the edges at the same time as I'm painting the cockpit interior or just before I attach the canopy on a closed cockpit aircraft. When I've added the canopy I then mask the frames and paint them in the interior colour. If the canopy is then to be displayed open I'll gently touch up any paint that might have been removed or worn off fitting the canopy with a fine brush. Sometimes I use the wet Kleenex method and leave the canopy off and mask it and paint the frames in the interior colour then overpaint them in the final colours. If you use this method just be sure to mask off the bottom surfaces of the canopy. They can be retouched with a brush later. On open cockpit types I just fill the cockpit/s with wet Kleenex making sure there is no fluff overhanging the exterior and leave the edges exposed to be touched up with a fine brush in the interior colour after the exterior scheme is dry. BTW I normally use white glue to attach closed canopies but on my Eduard Aero L-39 I had trouble with the white glue not wanting to hold the canopies so I used thin CA glue. Just a tiny, tiny amount applied to the canopy sills and canopies with a toothpick and I had no trouble with the perspex crazing. HTH.

:cheers:,

Ross.

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