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AFV Club F-5E "Nellis Gomer"

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So, now the F-5 is out of the paint - patience - barn! Just made a soft wet polish with a kind of micromesh 12000 (it is another brand, from the german company RaiRo, maybe unkown here...) to blend to spray-over a bit and remove tiny dust pieces in the paint.

That is my first freehand airbrush job, I think it is quite o.k. - I like the most the underside, but I am not so happy with the nose section. But I don't start to spray again - it will not get better and the risk of ruining something is rising.


Here you can see the paints used: Gunze aqueous H27 tan, H37 wood brown, H1 gloss white (to lighten the tan and brown), H309 green FS 34079, Thinner and retarder. Tan, brown and white are glossy colors, that worked really good, also no fuss with the semi-gloss green.

Now my recommendation or - what I will do different with my next F-5 build: the preshading is not needed, it is not visible anymore due to the many corrections I had to make. But much better to do a kind of aftershading, spraying spots and / or lines with highly diluted original color, a bit darkened and/or lightened. That brings the paint to life!

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This time I sprayed no primer before because uf the good surface of the kit and the fine surface details. So far so good, but the surface of the wing's upperside has a bit texture that you can see when you look at it closely. Not a big deal, but the next Tiger will get primed wing surfaces!



Now I let it dry for another day and then I will spray a clear gloss coat. I have the Future floor finish in my hobby cave, but I prefer the more unkown "Emsal Glanz". It is more liquid and easy to use. Will not give me a pebbly surface and it is more shiny / glossy than I achieved with Future. Next step will be the decals.

Edited by tobiK
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This bottle I found in a local EDEKA supermarket, my actual bottle I bought some years ago in Frankfurt/Main in !??? Rewe? Don't remember the name anymore, just visit the household cleaner section in your supermarkets! Or ask the staff about it! This morning I sprayed the Emsal Glanz on the model - looks perfect! Glossy and shiny and NOT a thick layer needed! Later you can make your washing with oils and turpentine, it does not affect the Emsal (only when you rub on the same spot for minutes!). But I take turpentine of high quality for artists and not from hobby market (Baumarkt). It is called "Balsamterpentin".

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About the EMSAL stuff: it s almost liquid like water, I just take the airbrush, have not experienced brush painting. Cleaning the gun with alcohol (german: Spiritus) or window cleaner.

Now the Tiger gets the natural metal section. On the pics it is quite dark NMF, so I took Alclad dark aluminium (also magnesium would be good...a bit darker), before I primed that area with Humbrol gloss black. A hue of Alclad duraluminium in the panels between the rivets. After that it was still to "silver" to me. Not matching an exhaust NMF panel part. So I took Alclad hotmetal red and sprayed lightly only over the rivet lines. Now that's it! Same procedure to the burner cans on the outside.

The yellow-black checkered stripe on the vertical fin consits of two decals: the yellow stripe and the black squares. BUT Twobobs made the yellow stripe a bit too short! So I masked the area and sprayed some Revell Lufthansa yellow and now it is on the edges of the fin too!.

Drying, bit 12000 polish, Emsal Glanz - black checkers! NICE!

Now it is time to give the bird its legs. A bit fiddly work and careful not to get X, W, O...whatever shape of legs. And back to decal work...soon pics for you guys!

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Meanwhile the decals are on, really good to handle, the TB decals and Microset and Microsol, this time no Mr. mark softer needed, even when it comes to the 2-piece decals! I m sure it is because of the real glossy Emsal surface! The pitot tube from W&D studio is on too, a VERY nice metal part! Oh, so about the pitot painting, not sure what colors...rear part in black, the thinner front part in nat. metal? so i just let the steel unpainted!? Maybe a hue os hot metal blue? What do you think, guys??


The tail showing the NMF part:


The nozzles will be added a bit later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Turned out great, added to the prize (possible) list.

Yeah, that makes me excited already, never "won" something like that before!

The fiddly linkage of the main landing gear doors gave me headache in the end, also the Xtracrylic flat varnish did not work like I always knew. But I could fix it..

So well, my first GB that I finished in time! And I also started late, guess it was mid of March.

Now cleaning the workbench...I m hot for the next GB! :woot.gif:

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  • 7 months later...

I just pick up the old thread today because the second F-5E is still in progress and it's going on! Meanwhile reached the paint shop and again I try a free hand camo with my Iwata HP-CS.

This time it will be finished in the "old blue" scheme. Up to now I have not found many Tiger II models sporting that scheme (1 in 1/72 hand painted and one AFV Club in 1/48. But at both kits i get headache when I look for a match of the colors...well, now I know, the color job is difficult for "old blue"!)

OFC the fuselage got a coat of grey Tamiya primer and first paint on was FS 35190 synth. haze blue (THE blue of the 3 colors). The only out of jar color I found in the Xtracolor range: X160! Using the Xtracolor thinner it was no big deal about drying time. After 2 days about I sprayed the next color: MM 2033, FS 35414 for the bright "green". MM like I used to know - hazlefree!

Last one was the FS 35164: my HU 144 already dried and the MM 1720 I did not get from my LHS. TwoBobs recommend Gunze H43 "blue gray" and I also found a good match in the Tamiya range: XF 50. The Gunze looks a bit more "blue" and not so dark like Tamiya...I go for Gunze on that case because I found 2 pics of the real aircraft showing it on the ground from left and right side and that dark gray looks really close to the Gunze H43. This time I remember a tip from a fellow modeller and I hand paint the camo demarcation lines with future. So I still can see the shiny line while it is otherwise invisible and will not disturb the airbrush coat!

I have 3 references: two bobs and Afterburner instruction and the "official patterns and colors" in the book "Colors and markins of USAF AGGRESSOR SQUADRONS. But all where more or less o.k. but did not match the 2 pics. So I tried to copy the scheme from the pics as far I could see that. "old blue" - wrap around or not? In this case no general rule possible, again here the pics showed a grey underside and so it was sprayed FS 35622, Gunze H314.


I was quite happy with the Gunze blue gray compared to the pics but the Xtracolor synth. haze blue gave me worries...I miss that bright blue hue!! There is no blue to see...something wrong with the Xtra charge???? (I remember the MM problem in another thread right now...). It may be right -more or less- for the red "69" F-5E 01569, but never for the "blue" 65 !! The blue looks faded and really bright (same like on the "blue" 96"). And there is no other real good match for FS 35190 on the market!?

Due to eyeball I mixed MM 2048 "azure blue" (FS 35231) with a few drops of Xtra X160 and now it looks close. Due to colorserver the FS15190 is just a bit darker than the FS 35231.

Hardest job was to make correction to the overspray between the light green and the dark blue gray. Needed several approaches to get it right the most possible to my skills. Urghh...

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Even the "old blue" has the same colors as the "grape" scheme, the camo has smaller spots, more curves and kind of branches. That makes it more interesting but also more difficult to paint.

Here a pic after spraying the bright blue from MM and adding some fading.


Here a small pic of the real bird:


I think my paintjob is not too far away. Anyhow I appreciate critics and ideas how to improve.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now put it on the legs. Clear coat on and made some decaling. Bob Sanchez did a good job with this sheet! It makes you feel he designed it for the AFV Club kit! Small holes drilled so I can install the pins of the RBF tags later (landing gear, centerline pylon, hook). Next step will be the gun bay...will be open!


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