Best techniques for Mr. Surfacer

[Triarius]

I recently tried this stuff for the first time as a filler. It seemed to have potential, so I bought the other grades and tried it out. I've read the stuff on Swanny's site, searched these forums, and gotten mixed results.

Swanny says to use a cotton swab dipped in lacquer thinner to wipe the excess off after a few minutes from application. Worked well with the 1200 on one paint hulk, attacked the surface of the other fairly severely.

I read here that some use 97% isopropyl alcohol for this, but when I tried that, they did not seem compatible.

The stuff definitely is better than thinned Acryl Blue, but I need better use methods. Anyone got some advice?

Edited January 12, 2014 by Triarius

[toadwbg]

I recently tried this stuff for the first time as a filler. It seemed to have potential, so I bought the other grades and tried it out. I've read the stuff on Swanny's site, searched these forums, and gotten mixed results.

Swanny says to use a cotton swab dipped in lacquer thinner to wipe the excess off after a few minutes from application. Worked well with the 1200 on one paint hulk, attacked the surface of the other fairly severely.

I read here that some use 97% isopropyl alcohol for this, but when I tried that, they did not seem compatible.

The stuff definitely is better than thinned Acryl Blue, but I need better use methods. Anyone got some advice?

I use the 90+% Alcohol and it works pretty good with a bit of scrubbing. Swab the deck matey! If the alcohol isn't enough do some sanding.

I do NOT recommend using lacquer as it will attack the plastic.

[-Neu-]

I recently tried this stuff for the first time as a filler. It seemed to have potential, so I bought the other grades and tried it out. I've read the stuff on Swanny's site, searched these forums, and gotten mixed results.

Swanny says to use a cotton swab dipped in lacquer thinner to wipe the excess off after a few minutes from application. Worked well with the 1200 on one paint hulk, attacked the surface of the other fairly severely.

I read here that some use 97% isopropyl alcohol for this, but when I tried that, they did not seem compatible.

The stuff definitely is better than thinned Acryl Blue, but I need better use methods. Anyone got some advice?

Use the Mr. Color thinner for everything.... thinning it, cleaning it, ect. It costs a bit more, but I find trying to be "smart" by using alternate stuff more often than not can come back to bite you in the you know where.

I think for filling Its best to use a thicker formulation, and drop it into the affected area using a needle like implement... the tip of the drill, an exacto knife or scribing needle. I'd clean off the excess right off the bat. Let it dry, reapply as needed and then sand.

IMO find it best as a primer: thin it to the right consistency and you get a rock hard base to work off of. And on that note, gunze offers a pretty remarkable system of paints and thinners. You can modify it with the thinner, levening thinner, metal primer, and retarder, can give you significantly different effects. There really isn't anything comparable from other manufacturers.

Edited January 12, 2014 by -Neu-

[randypandy831]

as others mention, I use a 90+ % alcohol with great results. I normally use the 500 grade and it takes a few passes before the alcohol loosens up. I do use lacquer thinner but I use very little. I dip the cotton swab in the thinner then roll it around in a paper towel.

[Triarius]

Thank you all for your replies. I'd consider using the Gunze thinner, but I've found Gunze products to be somewhat hard to find at times. No question about Gunze quality—I have only once even heard of a problem with their coatings, and that was easily solved by proper application. My only real complaint against them is a lack of English labeling or instructions.

Looks like I'll be trying the 90+ % isopropyl for now—I have a lot of it available.

Thanks again for your help. That and some practice should do it.

[JesniF-16]

Thank you all for your replies. I'd consider using the Gunze thinner, but I've found Gunze products to be somewhat hard to find at times. No question about Gunze quality—I have only once even heard of a problem with their coatings, and that was easily solved by proper application. My only real complaint against them is a lack of English labeling or instructions.

Looks like I'll be trying the 90+ % isopropyl for now—I have a lot of it available.

Thanks again for your help. That and some practice should do it.

I haven't had any luck using alcohol either... I've tried Mr. Leveling Thinner, but I can never get the smooth seamless transition. If you find a method that works or if you end up getting results with the alcohol, would you mind posting the technique? TIA. I've gotten great results using it as a primer, but I haven't been priming my plastic too much as of late so the bottles just collect dust for now :lol:/>

/Jesse

[galileo1]

To wipe excess off use the leveling thinner as it doesn't attack the plastic in the least. In fact, I've used the leveling thinner to strip lacquer based primers off plastic and it has always worked. Tamiya's lacquer thinner (yellow cap) is also good. Nothing better for me when I try to fill gaps at wing roots and the such. I apply Mr Surfacer and then just wipe excess with Mr Leveling thinner.

Rob

[Janissary]

…. Tamiya's lacquer thinner (yellow cap) is also good. ….

Exactly. If Gunze thinner is hard to find, Tamiya lacquer thinner is the answer. Does not mar the plastic, thins all sorts of putties and primers, and works very well for what you are trying to do. However, alcohol works pretty well also in this particular instance.

[MoFo]

Am I missing the obvious?

[Triarius]

Am I missing the obvious?

No. But as far as I'm concerned, the less sanding of filler that I have to do, the better.

On that note: 90% isopropyl alcohol works until the stuff is fully cured. After that, it's either sand or use lacquer thinner and then a light sanding. However, I've yet to try either Gunze or Tamiya thinners.

[MoFo]

The problem with thinners is that Mr. Surfacer shrinks a lot. Wipe the excess off before it dries and you'll need a bunch of applications to even out the surface. Wipe off the surface *after* it dries, and you risk re-liquifying the surface layer, again leading to shrinkage and sinking when it re-dries.

My preferred method is to take advantage of of its biggest benefit. Use a fine brush and spot applications to put the putty *exactly* where you need it, and not where you don't. Keep the excess to a minimum, which keeps the sanding to a minimum.

[balls47]

I'm with MoFo. Mr. Surfacer sands very easily.

[Triarius]

Well, this is what works for me:

After 20 minutes, wipe with ethyl or denatured alcohol. This seems better at feathering an edge and leaving a depression completely filled. For filling things like panel lines or scratches, rub across the long axis. The advantage of ethyl over 90% isopropyl is that it evaporates much more rapidly and thus dissolves less of the Mr. Surfacer. This may be followed by a light pass with 800 grit or higher. For larger defects, I use the alcohol but finish with 800 or higher grit.

The key to using the alcohols appears to be timing: too soon and it takes everything, too late and you have to scrub hard enough to remove some of the compound from the defect. I also found that using a paper towel is better than a cotton swab, at least for me.

[Mike C]

I've never used Mr Surfacer before, but if lacquer thinner can be used to thin and/or clean it, there's a good chance you can also use nail polish remover to do the same. I regularly use my wife's nail polish remover to thin and clean Tamiya Basic Putty with great success. Plus the nail polish remover won't attack the plastic (at least not as much as lacquer thinner).

Edited January 30, 2014 by Mike C

[marvin20]

I've also used Nail Polish Remover to remove Mr. Surfacer.

[BGB]

Hello ,

I use nail polish remover works fine.

Cheers

Boris

[balls47]

Well, this is what works for me:

After 20 minutes, wipe with ethyl or denatured alcohol. This seems better at feathering an edge and leaving a depression completely filled. For filling things like panel lines or scratches, rub across the long axis. The advantage of ethyl over 90% isopropyl is that it evaporates much more rapidly and thus dissolves less of the Mr. Surfacer. This may be followed by a light pass with 800 grit or higher. For larger defects, I use the alcohol but finish with 800 or higher grit.

The key to using the alcohols appears to be timing: too soon and it takes everything, too late and you have to scrub hard enough to remove some of the compound from the defect. I also found that using a paper towel is better than a cotton swab, at least for me.

Triarius, I was just gonna get on and tell you to use denatured alcohol when I read this. Just used it on some Mr. Surfacer and my steel-trap mind kicked in and I remembered this post. Whew!!! I'm glad that's over.

[happy1]

I use 99% alcohol with q-tips also I thin it down thinner than 1200 hundred Mr Surfurfacer I use a small brush to apply it wait about 10 minutes than remove it with a q-tip going with the seam sometimes it takes me several applications to fill the seam but I don't have to sand any. You can also use pure acetone to remove Mr Surfacer it doesn't have any oils or conditioners in it.

Paul

[Eric2020]

I just started using it, did see a vid of it, and must say that a small brush works the best for me. I let it dry overnight and sand it down. As it is shrinking pretty much I keep adding surfacer after the first coat is dry. It sands pretty good, so I keep using this material. works fine in wheelbays and than one could do the alcohol trick.

[Pep]

I use Alcohol to clean up when i use it as filler (500). I use Tamiya Lacquer thinner at about 50/50 for priming (1000 or 1200.

Hope the info helps.

[tempestwulf]

Tamiya laquer thinner works pretty good but is more expensive. I use hardware brand thinner but it's pretty aggresive and flashes off quick, but that suits me as it dries faster. You become accustomed to it.

[stalal]

If you want to create slip resistant coat on an armour kit, how would you use it? I tried thinned S500 (thinned with Mr Color Thinner) and it comes out very smooth. What is the proportion of mixture to use?