david sMiGielski Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 It seems like everyone has an opinion of this kit. Instead of rehashing or continuing to beat that long dead horse (there is a 29+ page thread on the Jet Modeling board if you really feel like going down that rabbit hole), I'm going to just build the thing. Besides, I'll take it over the Monogram kit any day. With that out of the way...I didn't go overboard on the cockpit since this is going to have a closed canopy. I'm sure Neomega is working on a resin set, which I'll use on the second kit I have in the stash. The major work shown below is the nose. This is going to be built as a Foxbat-F, so a new nose is in order. I used a 3D printed version available from click2detail. It's designed for the Monogram kit but using it only required a bit of cutting a filling. Certainly nothing insurmountable. More as things progress... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Combat Zero Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 3d printing must work miracles. On the other hand, I heard that the kit seat can hold it's own against the neomega cockpit seat for the revell kit. It has photo etch frets and seats too, right Quote Link to post Share on other sites
parche Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Cool. More please. Love the 3D printed nose. Cheers, Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
metroman Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 This kit has so much potential I'm just waiting for new resin intakes, adding FOD covers would just be right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary F Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Hi David, How thick are the nose parts ... They look very thin, almost transparent? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I did not know Monogram made a 1/48th MiG-25, nor a 1/72nd for that matter... Are you talking about the Revell kit? Forgive me if that was a Tongue-n-cheek type of reference. Looks like this one is going together well... Cheers -Larry McCarley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Combat Zero Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Hi David, How thick are the nose parts ... They look very thin, almost transparent? 3d printers use coordinates, so i assume it would be as thick as the model it was taken from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 I was dreading having to slice up the kit parts to make the shorter, wider BM wing. As it turns out though, KH provides two sets of separate wingtips, one of which works for the BM (I'm willing to bet there will be an R-model in the future), so all I had to do was increase the cord of the wing. This was easily done with sheet styrene and superglue. I'll have to throw on some putty and rescribe but so far, so good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Gary, the parts are the same thickness one would expect with a hollow-case resin piece. The material used on this case is much less opaque than resin, but seems pretty similar in every other respect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) How thick are the nose parts ... They look very thin, almost transparent? Click2detail runs ProJet printers (the same kind as Shapeways' Frosted Detail/Frosted Ultra Detail), which uses a transluscent, UV-cured acrylic print medium. It's a sort of clear off-white though areas that contact the support medium tend to have a frostier appearance. Which is to say, it's not your standard resin, and the fact that it's see-through is entirely normal. It's not thin, it's just the way that material looks. For example, this part here is around 1 - 1.5mm thick (so, standard plastic kit thickness). Edited January 21, 2014 by MoFo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary F Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thanks guys. Not being familiar with the product material, the part's appearance led me to think the parts might be kind of thin. Thanks for the info. cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Have made some more progress but none of it is really photogenic. Until then, here is a shot of the afterburner components. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 This is my first Foxbat, so I never really had a sense of its size. Must have been an awesome feeling as the pilot to have all that power behind you. Anyway, the latest. Here are the intakes; the much maligned, much fretted about subject of pages of internet hand wringing. I'm sure there will be aftermarket seamless intakes released at some point, but I plan on using intake covers. With that in mind, making the kit provided parts work probably isn't beyond the skill of most modelers out there. I had to fill a few sinkholes and do some test fitting. Not a big deal though. And a step back shot. Forward fuselage is glued on, wings are not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R Spreckley Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I love this aircraft and absolute beast designed for one thing only... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) Ummm... you've glued the intake ramps on the wrong sides. The "curved" corner goes to the outside, not the inside. You'll notice this when you try to glue the ramps per the kit's instructions - that curved bit conforms to the shape of the intake. Also: that triangular gap? It shouldn't be there. The intake ramps are rectangular, and there is no space between them and the intake walls*. There should actually be a vertical "wall" (plate, whatever) inside parts B4 and B6 which would give the intakes the proper rectangular cross section. Instead, the kit is "scooped out", which leaves massive gaps if you do anything but fully-dropped ramps. Pretty simple fix - just glue some styrene sheet to B 4 and B6 and sand flush to the intake lip (alternatively, fill with milliput or polyester putty or similar). However, depending on exactly how you do it, you'll probably have to correct the intake ramp pieces as well, filing them down until they're rectangular, rather than trapezoidal. Alternatively, you could just glue some sheet stock along the back to plug the void, then putty to bring it level. Less accurate, but quick and dirty. *if you think about the way that real intake ramps work, you'll see that the kit parts are very, very wrong, even beyond the whole MiG-29-style FOD door thing. Edited January 25, 2014 by MoFo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'll go back and double check the ramp placement. The triangular gap, if we're talking about the same thing, is just because I hadn't glued those parts together when I took the photos. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Daryl J. Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Finally a build up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm talking about the back end of the intakes. The plastic/PE sandwich. They're swapped, and there shouldn't be any gaps with the intake sides. The pic shows what I mean (actually, that pic shows a lot, but specifically, note the ramps are basically tight to the walls) I've spent the last couple of evenings trying to figure out some intake trunks, and the more I look, the more I just kind of scratch my head. Even doing masters for a set of FOD covers isn't exactly straightforward. Trunkin' ain't easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Ah, I see it now. You're right, I've been struggling with the engineering of the things myself. Have you see this build? http://www.scalespot.com/onthebench/mig25/build.htm I've been using it as a guide of sorts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 After spending way more time last night thinking about the intakes than I should have, I decided to bite the bullet and go over the kit ramps with thin styrene to fill the triangular gaps. It pained me to cover up the photoetch, but I think it will look better in the end. I'll be first in line when the aftermarket trunking comes out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary F Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi David, Any successes with the Mig lately?Be good to hear what you've come up with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I'm at the filling and sanding stage. Pretty dull stuff. I'll hopefully have something new to post this weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Viper316 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi David, Any update on this build? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 I'm going to put primer on the kit tonight. Will post a couple pics. I suspect it will be the first of many coats since I've had to do a lot of filling and sanding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david sMiGielski Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 First coat of primer is on. The section I was most worried about--the nose--isn't in bad shape. The printed parts are a little interesting under paint. Note the almost wood-grained pattern on the nose. I'm hoping it will go away as more layers of primer are applied and sanded. The wings need the most work and I suspect will require a complete rescribe before this is all said and done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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